DX camera recommendation

[rhino123]

Thanks. Then I may consider to go for Olympus OM-D E-M10 instead due to budget constraint.

Actually hor... you really should looked at EPL6 or EPL7. They shared the same sensor as EM5/ EM10. Believe it to be cheaper as compared to EM10. EPL7 come with 3 axis image stabilization (the same on EM10), full tilty/ flipy LCD and it came with an external small little flash. The only thing that it lack is a built in EVF. You can easily get one (second hand) from our BnS forum though. Size wise, it is about the same, quite significantly shorter.

http://robinwong.blogspot.sg/2014/08/olympus-pen-e-pl7-review.html

 

[renol]

Actually hor... you really should looked at EPL6 or EPL7. They shared the same sensor as EM5/ EM10. Believe it to be cheaper as compared to EM10. EPL7 come with 3 axis image stabilization (the same on EM10), full tilty/ flipy LCD and it came with an external small little flash. The only thing that it lack is a built in EVF. You can easily get one (second hand) from our BnS forum though. Size wise, it is about the same, quite significantly shorter.

http://robinwong.blogspot.sg/2014/08/olympus-pen-e-pl7-review.html

Thanks. I also read about the Olympus PEN E-PL7. The differences between E-M10 and PL7 are PL7 does not have a built-in flash, dual dial control and optional Electronic Viewfinder (EVF).

 

[keithwee]

Thanks. I also read about the Olympus PEN E-PL7. The differences between E-M10 and PL7 are PL7 does not have a built-in flash, dual dial control and optional Electronic Viewfinder (EVF).

Not just that, firmware wise EPL7 is currently more updated, for example it has more art filters.

Also consider that the EM10 allows u to purchase an optional grip for better hold should u go for the pro-level MFT lenses such as 12-40/2.8 or even 40-150/2.8.

Lastly , the EPL7's build even though significantly upgraded from the previous iterations is still not as solid as the EM10.

 

[renol]

Anyone is using Sirui EN or ET (traveller?) series tripod + E series ball head?

How are they as compared to TX series?

Thanks.

 

[renol]

The current promotion is as follows:

1. OLYMPUS OM-D E-M1 [SILVER] + M.ZUIKO DIGITAL ED 12-40mm F2.8 PRO + M.ZUIKO DIGITAL ED 40-150mm F4.0-5.6 R
2. OLYMPUS OM-D E-M10 [SILVER] + M.ZUIKO DIGITAL ED 14-42mm EZ + M.ZUIKO DIGITAL ED 40-150mm F4.0-5.6 R

The price difference between Option 1 and 2 is around $1.5k. Is it worth the $1.5k for the body and the kit lens for Option 1?

I also read up on this but do not quite get it.

Thanks.

 

[brapodam]

The current promotion is as follows:

1. OLYMPUS OM-D E-M1 [SILVER] + M.ZUIKO DIGITAL ED 12-40mm F2.8 PRO + M.ZUIKO DIGITAL ED 40-150mm F4.0-5.6 R
2. OLYMPUS OM-D E-M10 [SILVER] + M.ZUIKO DIGITAL ED 12-42mm EZ + M.ZUIKO DIGITAL ED 40-150mm F4.0-5.6 R

The price difference between Option 1 and 2 is around $1.5k. Is it worth the $1.5k for the body and the kit lens for Option 1?

Thanks.

The first option has the 12-40mm f2.8. If you need f2.8 in that range, it's worth it. If you don't, then the 14-42 in the second option is a good enough option.

The 12-40 f2.8 is the 24-70 f2.8 equivalent for m4/3 (it's 24-80, but the purpose is still the same). Whether or not you need such a lens depends on your own needs/wants.

The E-M1 and E-M10 are also cameras of different leagues. They are not worlds apart, but for a beginner, the E-M10 with 14-42 and 40-150 should be sufficient. If you want to play with a larger aperture lens, the 45/1.8 is a pretty popular choice.

 

[rhino123]

The current promotion is as follows:

1. OLYMPUS OM-D E-M1 [SILVER] + M.ZUIKO DIGITAL ED 12-40mm F2.8 PRO + M.ZUIKO DIGITAL ED 40-150mm F4.0-5.6 R
2. OLYMPUS OM-D E-M10 [SILVER] + M.ZUIKO DIGITAL ED 12-42mm EZ + M.ZUIKO DIGITAL ED 40-150mm F4.0-5.6 R

The price difference between Option 1 and 2 is around $1.5k. Is it worth the $1.5k for the body and the kit lens for Option 1?

I also read up on this but do not quite get it.

Thanks.

Er... what do you don't get it about?

That link just linked us to a bunch of lenses. They are different lenses for m4/3 camera.

As for is it worth the 1.5k, it is difficult for any of us to tell you. To me, it is worth that much of money because the 12-40mm f2.8 PRO is a fabulous lens and is in a totally different league as the 14-42mm lens. But can you get good result with a 14-42mm lens? Yes, you can. I have survive for more than a year with the 14-42 and up till today, I still didn't find the need for the 12-40mm f2.8.

As to the differences between the EM1 and EM10... from reviews, it is noted that the EM1 do have better overall performance including sharpness, contrast and noise performance and it had a better Image stabilizing system. But do you need all those? Nobody can safely and responsibly tell you. Because all these are up to oneself. EM10 is a great camera, it will serve you well.

All that said, I would always advise people to buy within their budget and buy the best within that budget. However, do keep in mind that there is really no point stretching your budget till you feel the pinch. Photography is suppose to be a very fun hobby, no point tightening your belt and get something top of the class.

Also I would really advise you not to look at prime or single focal range lenses, yet. Not that I don't believe you can do it, but I have seen many newbies (myself included) jumping into the prime lenses only to dump them in the dry cabinet for a while. Zoom lenses are more feasible for most people, at least until they know which focal length they used most of the time, then get a prime lens that is suitable for the length. For example, use your kit lens (14-42mm or 12-50mm) for most of the time, then as time goes, you found that you only use one focal length (say, 12mm) most of the time (say, around 80 to 90%), then you invest in a 12mm lens.

 

[renol]

The first option has the 12-40mm f2.8. If you need f2.8 in that range, it's worth it. If you don't, then the 14-42 in the second option is a good enough option.

The 12-40 f2.8 is the 24-70 f2.8 equivalent for m4/3 (it's 24-80, but the purpose is still the same). Whether or not you need such a lens depends on your own needs/wants.

The E-M1 and E-M10 are also cameras of different leagues. They are not worlds apart, but for a beginner, the E-M10 with 14-42 and 40-150 should be sufficient. If you want to play with a larger aperture lens, the 45/1.8 is a pretty popular choice.

Thanks for the advice.

Will sololy M.ZUIKO DIGITAL ED 14-42mm EZ or M.ZUIKO DIGITAL ED 14-42mm EZ + M.ZUIKO DIGITAL ED 40-150mm F4.0-5.6 R able to cover most of the ranges for scenery shooting?

Er... what do you don't get it about?

That link just linked us to a bunch of lenses. They are different lenses for m4/3 camera.

As for is it worth the 1.5k, it is difficult for any of us to tell you. To me, it is worth that much of money because the 12-40mm f2.8 PRO is a fabulous lens and is in a totally different league as the 14-42mm lens. But can you get good result with a 14-42mm lens? Yes, you can. I have survive for more than a year with the 14-42 and up till today, I still didn't find the need for the 12-40mm f2.8.

As to the differences between the EM1 and EM10... from reviews, it is noted that the EM1 do have better overall performance including sharpness, contrast and noise performance and it had a better Image stabilizing system. But do you need all those? Nobody can safely and responsibly tell you. Because all these are up to oneself. EM10 is a great camera, it will serve you well.

All that said, I would always advise people to buy within their budget and buy the best within that budget. However, do keep in mind that there is really no point stretching your budget till you feel the pinch. Photography is suppose to be a very fun hobby, no point tightening your belt and get something top of the class.

Also I would really advise you not to look at prime or single focal range lenses, yet. Not that I don't believe you can do it, but I have seen many newbies (myself included) jumping into the prime lenses only to dump them in the dry cabinet for a while. Zoom lenses are more feasible for most people, at least until they know which focal length they used most of the time, then get a prime lens that is suitable for the length. For example, use your kit lens (14-42mm or 12-50mm) for most of the time, then as time goes, you found that you only use one focal length (say, 12mm) most of the time (say, around 80 to 90%), then you invest in a 12mm lens.

Truly agreed with you. That why I am only asking on the kit lens and not other professional lenses.

 

[renol]

How are lever locks (Sirui ET series) as compared to twist locks (Sirui TX series) in terms of sturdy and stability?

Thanks.

 

[brapodam]

Thanks for the advice.

Will sololy M.ZUIKO DIGITAL ED 12-42mm EZ or M.ZUIKO DIGITAL ED 12-42mm EZ + M.ZUIKO DIGITAL ED 40-150mm F4.0-5.6 R able to cover most of the ranges for scenery shooting?

It is a 14-42, not a 12-42. But yes, it should cover most of the range for scenery shooting. If, after shooting with the 14-42 for a while and you find that it is still not wide enough, you can go for the Olympus 9-18. But I advise against starting out with that lens, because it is an ultrawide angle lens, which is difficult to pick up especially if you have not gotten used to managing distortion

 

[renol]

It is a 14-42, not a 12-42. But yes, it should cover most of the range for scenery shooting. If, after shooting with the 14-42 for a while and you find that it is still not wide enough, you can go for the Olympus 9-18. But I advise against starting out with that lens, because it is an ultrawide angle lens, which is difficult to pick up especially if you have not gotten used to managing distortion

Sorry for the typo, it should be 14-42mm.

Is M.ZUIKO DIGITAL ED 40-150mm F4.0-5.6 R a good lens to begin with if I am going for sports photography?

Thanks for the advice.

 

[rhino123]

How are lever locks (Sirui ET series) as compared to twist locks (Sirui TX series) in terms of sturdy and stability?

Thanks.

I have used both the level locks (or clip lock) and the twist and turn locks tripod and monopod before, I don't see much different at all. It all depend on oneself's preference. It is something like Manfrotto tripods (of which, all are clip lock) and Gitzo tripods of which all of them are twist and turn.

But if you ask me, I still prefer the twist and turn more, mainly because I am more used to them, having five tripods, all of which are twist and turn and only two clip lock monopods. And I find dismantling the twist and turn tripod for cleaning and maintaining is easier than dismantling the clip lock system (experts can correct me here though).

Anyway, when you choose your tripod, I would advise you to bring down the heaviest of your gear, go to the shop and mount your gear to the tripod and ballhead, then test to see if it was stable. For the tripodhead, normally you look at the maximum loading of the tripodhead, then you look at the maximum weigh of your gear (camera body + lens + accessories (flash, etc)) and multiply your maximum weigh of your gear by a factor of 3. If that load is not more than the maximum loading of your tripodhead, then it is possibly okay for the tripod head.

Why you need the factor of 3... it is to simulate your camera in weird position (this can be see in the link I have provided to you before).

 

[brapodam]

I have used both the level locks (or clip lock) and the twist and turn locks tripod and monopod before, I don't see much different at all. It all depend on oneself's preference. It is something like Manfrotto tripods (of which, all are clip lock) and Gitzo tripods of which all of them are twist and turn.

But if you ask me, I still prefer the twist and turn more, mainly because I am more used to them, having five tripods, all of which are twist and turn and only two clip lock monopods. And I find dismantling the twist and turn tripod for cleaning and maintaining is easier than dismantling the clip lock system (experts can correct me here though).

Anyway, when you choose your tripod, I would advise you to bring down the heaviest of your gear, go to the shop and mount your gear to the tripod and ballhead, then test to see if it was stable. For the tripodhead, normally you look at the maximum loading of the tripodhead, then you look at the maximum weigh of your gear (camera body + lens + accessories (flash, etc)) and multiply your maximum weigh of your gear by a factor of 3. If that load is not more than the maximum loading of your tripodhead, then it is possibly okay for the tripod head.

Why you need the factor of 3... it is to simulate your camera in weird position (this can be see in the link I have provided to you before).

I have a clip lock tripod and after looking at videos of a twist lock tripod, I think twist lock is so much better. It's a lot more convenient and sets up faster.

So I'd definitely recommend a twist lock tripod. I've heard that twist locks wear more easily, but I think as long as you maintain your stuff properly, the tripod should last very long.

 

[renol]

I have used both the level locks (or clip lock) and the twist and turn locks tripod and monopod before, I don't see much different at all. It all depend on oneself's preference. It is something like Manfrotto tripods (of which, all are clip lock) and Gitzo tripods of which all of them are twist and turn.

But if you ask me, I still prefer the twist and turn more, mainly because I am more used to them, having five tripods, all of which are twist and turn and only two clip lock monopods. And I find dismantling the twist and turn tripod for cleaning and maintaining is easier than dismantling the clip lock system (experts can correct me here though).

Anyway, when you choose your tripod, I would advise you to bring down the heaviest of your gear, go to the shop and mount your gear to the tripod and ballhead, then test to see if it was stable. For the tripodhead, normally you look at the maximum loading of the tripodhead, then you look at the maximum weigh of your gear (camera body + lens + accessories (flash, etc)) and multiply your maximum weigh of your gear by a factor of 3. If that load is not more than the maximum loading of your tripodhead, then it is possibly okay for the tripod head.

Why you need the factor of 3... it is to simulate your camera in weird position (this can be see in the link I have provided to you before).

As of now, my guess on the heaviest weight should be 369g (Olympus OM-D E-M10 with battery) + 87.8g (ECG-1 Grip) + 190g (M.ZUIKO DIGITAL ED 40-150mm F4.0-5.6 R) = 646.8g x factor of 3 = 1.9404kg

The possible heaviest weight should be 369g (Olympus OM-D E-M10 with battery) + 87.8g (ECG-1 Grip) + 760g (M.ZUIKO DIGITAL ED 40-150mm F2.8 PRO) = 1.2168kg x factor of x = 3.6504kg

 

[renol]

I have a clip lock tripod and after looking at videos of a twist lock tripod, I think twist lock is so much better. It's a lot more convenient and sets up faster.

So I'd definitely recommend a twist lock tripod. I've heard that twist locks wear more easily, but I think as long as you maintain your stuff properly, the tripod should last very long.

I also did some research but they state that clip lock tripod set up is faster.

 

[rhino123]

I also did some research but they state that clip lock tripod set up is faster.

It all depend on oneself as I have already mentioned before. There is no faster or slower. If you are used to clip lock, then the use of that is faster, if you are used to twist lock, then the twist lock is faster in your hands. A fraction of a second differences are totally not significant in real life, so you can ignore that factor altogether.

I have used both twist lock and clip lock (my first tripod is clip lock, although I have sold it away), and so I can safely tell you that to me, it don't have any differences... it is all up to yourself and what you prefer.

 

[renol]

It all depend on oneself as I have already mentioned before. There is no faster or slower. If you are used to clip lock, then the use of that is faster, if you are used to twist lock, then the twist lock is faster in your hands. A fraction of a second differences are totally not significant in real life, so you can ignore that factor altogether.

I have used both twist lock and clip lock (my first tripod is clip lock, although I have sold it away), and so I can safely tell you that to me, it don't have any differences... it is all up to yourself and what you prefer.

Thanks.

 

[brapodam]

It all depend on oneself as I have already mentioned before. There is no faster or slower. If you are used to clip lock, then the use of that is faster, if you are used to twist lock, then the twist lock is faster in your hands. A fraction of a second differences are totally not significant in real life, so you can ignore that factor altogether.

I have used both twist lock and clip lock (my first tripod is clip lock, although I have sold it away), and so I can safely tell you that to me, it don't have any differences... it is all up to yourself and what you prefer.

But the Sirui and Benro (I don't know about other brands) twist lock tripods can extend all the legs to max at one go right? Twist all the locks and pull will release all legs to max length right? With clip lock tripod, you can unlock all legs at one go, but you have to manually pull out the legs, they don't have a mechanism to extend the legs for you I think. At least mine doesn't.

 

[rhino123]

But the Sirui and Benro (I don't know about other brands) twist lock tripods can extend all the legs to max at one go right? Twist all the locks and pull will release all legs to max length right? With clip lock tripod, you can unlock all legs at one go, but you have to manually pull out the legs, they don't have a mechanism to extend the legs for you I think. At least mine doesn't.

No. Depend on how you do it. When all the legs are fully retracted, you can access to all the twist lock with one palm, twist it (you don't need to twist 360degree) just a slight twist of your wrist, and you release everything, then the leg will 'fall' downward using gravity pull. Less than 1 sec to release everything if you are used to it. Same for clip lock, one palm, three or four clips are open then let gravity do their job.

Simple.

 

[daredevil123]

About Sirui tripods.

E series tripods are all flip lock tripods
The rest are all twist locks

flip lock or twist lock is very much personal preference. I like twist locks because they are a lot easier to maintain in the long run. Flip locks usually have metal screws that will corrode in time if you submerge them in, say, sea water.

But in the end, it is really up to you. What you prefer. The best way to find out is to go down to a shop and try them out. You can check them out in TK foto in Funan, they are the distributor of Sirui.