developing B&W

[sweat100]

hahahha ok at least i got something come out now. butttttt its the opposite now haha too over develop haha i think to much developer and too long haha =X well thats the fun thing about developing =D

Also make sure ur temp is right. Setting at 20C is critical at least to me. Anyway a overdeveloped -ve is better than under developed, u get more details at times.

 

[kebeye]

haha wellll now is OVER details hahah i use my lousy scanner to show you guys its not that bad its just the scanner

 

[sweat100]

It seems that your camera metering is off giving over exposure instead. Did u set ur FE2 metering to ISO400? If it is over developed, the dark parts of the negatives is very dark while the light parts remains as it is. What scanner you used?

 

[kebeye]

haha nvm i use my camera take a picture of it better, using old scanner canonScan LiDE20 =P

 

[sweat100]

The negative looks fine, yeah there is overdeveloping to some extent. You can at least see the details of the hair and face. Btw, the Canon Lide 20 cant scan negatives, u need a negative scanner to do that.

 

[kebeye]

i know =P but not so bad haha show you this that was done by shop and scan myself, not much details but what to do no cash to buy negative scanner haha heard ex

 

[sweat100]

You can actually make a light box and use ur camera to shoot the negative then use PS to invert the colours and get your "scans". I do this to my MF negatives, the resoultion is not that great, but at least u still can see.
You can get cheap film scanners such as the Nikon coolscan 3, it is 150 to 200 in the 2nd hard market. Can scan pretty well. Here are some of the sample scans done by the scanner. http://sweat100.multiply.com/photos/album/44/Tang_Dynasty

Lastly, you can do ur own contact print, if u make a room light proof. That would be the most fun. You dont need an enlarger, just a torch light and photographic papers.

 

[kebeye]

You can actually make a light box and use ur camera to shoot the negative then use PS to invert the colours and get your "scans". I do this to my MF negatives, the resoultion is not that great, but at least u still can see.
You can get cheap film scanners such as the Nikon coolscan 3, it is 150 to 200 in the 2nd hard market. Can scan pretty well. Here are some of the sample scans done by the scanner. http://sweat100.multiply.com/photos/album/44/Tang_Dynasty

Lastly, you can do ur own contact print, if u make a room light proof. That would be the most fun. You dont need an enlarger, just a torch light and photographic papers.

hahaha well i dont need to do that because!!! my sch have darkroom hahahah Ngee Ann Poly. 1 more year to SPAM and use as much as possible hahah but must learn how to use 1st ;p

cool maybe i should get one of those scanners =D

 

[sweat100]

hahaha well i dont need to do that because!!! my sch have darkroom hahahah Ngee Ann Poly. 1 more year to SPAM and use as much as possible hahah but must learn how to use 1st ;p

cool maybe i should get one of those scanners =D

Ic... Then you are in for a great fun time! I am sure that the photographic society of Ngee Ann Poly will have at least someone who is crazy about darkroom. Can get in touch with him and pick up some skills. If not, online there are alot of info on them. Sure can find.

 

[kebeye]

that would be me now haha i'm in the club i know =D

 

[kebeye]

ok got a question again, for ISO 100 what would be the timing for that?? i tried 1:100 at 9min nothing came out hahah i feel totally wasted hahha my photossss arararar

 

[bahibo]

U didn't said which film so i assume tmax100.

1+4 at 20c then 7.5min
1+4 at 24c then 6.25min
1+7 at 24c then 9.5 min
1+9 at 24c then 13.5min

1+100 at 26c then ........................................i dont know

 

[kebeye]

the thing about 1+4 is use alot then need buy more. where can i find the HC-110 ruby dont have. soo looking at the chart
1+4 at 20c then 7.5min
1+4 at 24c then 6.25min
1+4 at 26c would be about 6.15min

 

[bahibo]

to convert time/dilution, go look for ilford chart, they have the diagram or something like that,Go ilford website look for time/temp conversation chart. 1+4 use a lot but u can use for around 4-8 rolls , or can do 1+9. I saw Hc-110 at ruby ? No more stock ?

 

[kebeye]

ok chart say about 5mins so fast haha
dont think so, have to check again
developer cant be reused right?

 

[patch17]

i've used ilfosol s on tmax, HP5, delta, etc. just read the chart to workout developing time based on the temperature and concentration. (i normally use a 1:4 mix of ilfosol s) development is between 6 to 10 mins. make sure to agitate regularly. i normally let it sit the last 2 mins without agitation.

results are quite resonable.

will try with rodinol next time. it's more concetrated than ilfosol so a lesser amount is required for development.

 

[bahibo]

well, actually can reuse but in short amount of time only, best is develope many rolls one time otherwise store in bottle that full of chemical, no or little air, dont keep too long. After 2,3 rolls add around 1 min to the dev time.

 

[kebeye]

okkkk tried 1:4 for 6mins but still over Z.z haha i suckkk hahhaha

opps ok some are actually not bad some over some not over means its my shutter speed. those i take 1 -2 slot faster is clear but those with strong light and i use A mode for those all over haha means still over developed =X

 

[bahibo]

overdevelop better than under develop , so if cant keep at 6.25 then put 6.5 6min u also can sleep

 

[kebeye]

6min already overdevelop go even higher ?? i'll try 5.30min next one =P