developing B&W film...

[chiif]

I know there are many resources out there on this subject, nevertheless, I've documented some steps and hope it's useful to some of you.

Hopefully, this will dispel any fear in anyone who wants to take the first step, but afraid of the effort, time and cost.

Feedback welcome! I am also learning...

Click here for steps ...

Jeff has also some resources on this... his can be found here .

 

[gommy]

Wow, look like I must go find all my B+W barang barang now....
Thanks.

I know there are many resources out there on this subject, nevertheless, I've documented some steps and hope it's useful to some of you.

Hopefully, this will dispel any fear in anyone who wants to take the first step, but afraid of the effort, time and cost.

Feedback welcome! I am also learning...

Click here for steps ...

Jeff has also some resources on this... his can be found here .

 

[mckenzy]

finally! dispelling the fear of developing! thanks chiif... someday perhaps...

 

[ndroo]

Enjoyed reading it. Thanks!

 

[bernards]

Oooh. Makes me want to shoot film just to smell the chemicals.

 

[Ansel]

Enjoyed reading it. Thanks!

Like many other things in life, don't just read, go and get your hands wet. ;p

 

[Ansel]

Oooh. Makes me want to shot film just to smell the chemicals.

Yes, fixer smell is shiok! Beats glue sniffing any time. ;p

 

[alucard]

Can I pitch in with some small tips?

1) shaking: I have found inversions are the best way to have a controlled agitation method. you want grittier pics then just increase your number of inversions, you are using Rodinal then go for slower/lesser number of inversions. I use the method I learnt from Doc Chong, which is as follows. The bottom of the dev tank has a depression, place your finger in that and use it as a pivot to invert the tank, at the same time rotating it, to evenly move the developing liquid in the tank.

2) stop bath: best to pour in water do 10 inversions, throw out water. then repeat with 20 and 30 inversions.

3) instead of photoflo you can use mama lemon two drops.

4) with some films, like T-max, Foma, APX100, it's worth doing a pre-wash with water (5 mins) at 20degC. this removes the backing or that purplish colour (esp with TMax) and brings the film base to the processing temperature before it gets hit with the developer. I usually adjust the developing timing by 15~30 secs, or you may choose to go with the normal timings.

 

[ndroo]

Like many other things in life, don't just read, go and get your hands wet. ;p

:bsmilie: Of course!

 

[ndroo]

Yes, fixer smell is shiok! Beats glue sniffing any time. ;p

Ah damn. Then I will have problem applying permit to do that at home. :cry:

 

[MartinS]

Wow! How did you managed take the photo when both your hands are occupied? Hold camera with teeth? Anyway good article!

 

[MartinS]

Chiff,

I think there may be a slight "typo" in the Fixer section. "The dilution formula for fixer is usually 1 part of fixer solution to 3 parts of water. Hence if you are using a 650ml tank, it's approx 170ml of water to 480ml of water"

Should it be 170ml of fixer to 480ml of water instead?

Anyway your article is just perfect for your website!

 

[chiif]

Thanks everyone...

Please... more feedback on how I can improve

This is a really great community!

BTW... I couldn't forget the joy the first time I took out the first 2 rolls of negatives from the tank after the fixer... the thrill & anticipation... couldn't find a word to describe that feeling... :bsmilie:

 

[enivre]

Wow! How did you managed take the photo when both your hands are occupied? Hold camera with teeth?

That's a good point!!

Anyone wanna do one for darkroom? I can offer my darkroom as a "model"... Enlarger hasn't been fired up for months!!

 

[redial]

If the Film is fully rolled into the canister. Used a Film Picker instead of opening the canister inside the darkbag.

 

[chiif]

If the Film is fully rolled into the canister. Used a Film Picker instead of opening the canister inside the darkbag.

Thanks.. point taken...

BTW... there was an invention called "the tripod" that allows people to mount cameras and set timer to take pictures of themselves handsfree... :bigeyes:

 

[sweat100]

Its a nice thread for everyone starting out B&W. Just to add on something about the developing temperature. As many people have noticed that most of the timings given at the developing chart website or the film boxes is usually at 20C. You can use the temperature compensation graph to compensate Singapore's temperature of 28 to 30C.
For people who would like to achieve 20C, I suggest you put ice into a plastic bag and immerse it into the developer (already to your desired dilution). Wait for 3 to 4 min to cool to 20C, and you are set to pour the developer in. This is a much faster than the water bath method I tried.

 

[enivre]

For people who would like to achieve 20C, I suggest you put ice into a plastic bag and immerse it into the developer (already to your desired dilution).

Brilliant! Put the ice in a plastic bag so it doesn't dillute the developer!! Why didn't I think of that!

 

[nordleadx]

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

 

[limonello]

Brilliant! Put the ice in a plastic bag so it doesn't dillute the developer!! Why didn't I think of that!

I second that (slapping hand to forehead making "doh" sound). That's a brilliant suggestion.

I've been lazy and developing in Diafine. No need to control temperature and no need to watch development times. Downside is there is no pushing or pulling.