developing B&W film...

[mdzmr]

I second that (slapping hand to forehead making "doh" sound). That's a brilliant suggestion.

I've been lazy and developing in Diafine. No need to control temperature and no need to watch development times. Downside is there is no pushing or pulling.

Ah, Diafine!! What the different of using Diafine and HC110? And I heard that this Diafine can be recycle is it?

 

[limonello]

Diafine:

Pros:
Recycle it.
2 bath developer
No temperature or time control required.
If you shoot one roll of 400TX at EI1250 and a roll of Lucky100 at EI200, you can develop both together in the same tank.

Cons:
You can't push and pull with Diafine so you decide before you are stuck in a narrow range of EI depending on film choice.

 

[redial]

When rolling the negatives into the plastic reel inside darkbag, trim/chamfer the corners of the negative. As you roll the reel, the trim corners will guide the whole negative in without getting stuck due to the flat 90 deg corners. Also make sure your reel is DRY. wet will get your negative stuck.

Developer temperature is the most critical. Advice to pour in Dev Tank at 19 deg. Once inside the temperature will compensation to be around 20 Deg.

 

[Ansel]

I second that (slapping hand to forehead making "doh" sound). That's a brilliant suggestion.

I've been lazy and developing in Diafine. No need to control temperature and no need to watch development times. Downside is there is no pushing or pulling.

Correction. There is an automatic grainless push of 2 stops for tri-X and t-max. No other variation allowed. Haha...but I love this developer!!

 

[mdzmr]

Is it really a need to use a stop bath or can I just use tap water?
Will there be any differences?

 

[Ansel]

Is it really a need to use a stop bath or can I just use tap water?
Will there be any differences?

A water rinse is usually good enough. stop bath will stop the developing process immediately, depending on how precise you need to be. The acidity will prolong the live of the fixer (by removing the alkaline traces from the developer).

 

[koolklamz]

Since we are on this topics, may I know how different is loading a roll of 120mm film for DIY B&W development as compared to 35mm film? Am I getting off-topics?

Thanks.

 

[mdzmr]

A water rinse is usually good enough. stop bath will stop the developing process immediately, depending on how precise you need to be. The acidity will prolong the live of the fixer (by removing the alkaline traces from the developer).

Shall I say it's more adviseable to use the stop bath.

Thanks for the info.

 

[invisibl3]

just checking where do you get diafine? is it powdered or liquid type of developer.
I've checked at ruby and seems that i can only find hc-110 d76 and tmax developer only

 

[Ansel]

Since we are on this topics, may I know how different is loading a roll of 120mm film for DIY B&W development as compared to 35mm film? Am I getting off-topics?

Thanks.

It is slightly different, but no biggy.

I assume you already know how to load 35mm so let me just focus on the differences for 120 film.

The main diff is that 120 film comes with a backing paper. This paper will have to be detached from the film. The film is also wider than 35mm so your developing spiral spool will have to snap out to the wider width, which can be as simple as turning the two wheels in opposite directions and snapping them back. Check the instructions on the spiral.

The removal of the backing paper is easy. The film is attached to the backing paper by means of piece of very short paper tape at the beginning of the the roll. When you unroll an exposed roll, you will actually encounter the tail end of the roll, which is not taped onto the backing paper. You can start loading that end onto the spiral first and when you reached the beginning of the film, that's when you meet the tape sticker. Simply remove the sticker from the film or the backing paper to detached them. Continue rolling the remaing part of the film until the entire strip of film is within the the spiral.

The rest of the steps will be similar to the 35mm film. Note that you are likely to need more developer solution to make sure the entire roll is submerged.

For more details, I recommend you look for a book on this subject, the many good sites on the internet dealing with this subject.

 

[maddyks]

Chiif, Thanks for this lovely write up. But one small error - its 170ml of fixer to 480 ml of water. not 170ml of water to 480 ml of water - then its only a water wash and no fixing :bsmilie:

 

[chiif]

Chiif, Thanks for this lovely write up. But one small error - its 170ml of fixer to 480 ml of water. not 170ml of water to 480 ml of water - then its only a water wash and no fixing :bsmilie:

aiyo... i must be getting old... correct so many times still got mistakes...

THanks for the heads up!

 

[limonello]

just checking where do you get diafine? is it powdered or liquid type of developer.
I've checked at ruby and seems that i can only find hc-110 d76 and tmax developer only

I got mine at B&H in NYC (which is must-visit store for any camera buff). B&H or Adorama will also deliver to any location in the US but will not deliver overseas. Maybe some restrictions on shipping powdered goods? You can try v-post (don't know if they will do it) or tumpang someone visiting the US?

 

[bahibo]

Contribute a link to the massive dev chart for reference of developing time. http://www.digitaltruth.com/

By the way , anyone have diafine can sell me some ? Can't buy anywhere, no shipping also

 

[koolklamz]

It is slightly different, but no biggy.

I assume you already know how to load 35mm so let me just focus on the differences for 120 film.

The main diff is that 120 film comes with a backing paper. This paper will have to be detached from the film. The film is also wider than 35mm so your developing spiral spool will have to snap out to the wider width, which can be as simple as turning the two wheels in opposite directions and snapping them back. Check the instructions on the spiral.

The removal of the backing paper is easy. The film is attached to the backing paper by means of piece of very short paper tape at the beginning of the the roll. When you unroll an exposed roll, you will actually encounter the tail end of the roll, which is not taped onto the backing paper. You can start loading that end onto the spiral first and when you reached the beginning of the film, that's when you meet the tape sticker. Simply remove the sticker from the film or the backing paper to detached them. Continue rolling the remaing part of the film until the entire strip of film is within the the spiral.

The rest of the steps will be similar to the 35mm film. Note that you are likely to need more developer solution to make sure the entire roll is submerged.

For more details, I recommend you look for a book on this subject, the many good sites on the internet dealing with this subject.

Thanks, Ansel.

Will try it out soon.

 

[limonello]

1) Does anyone have any tips to share on keeping film clean / dust free during the developing process and pre-scanning. I keep having squigly fibres turning up in my scans. Lately I have using a dust-buster on the film after loading into the film holder but does anyone have been suggestions?

2) Is Ilford's Ilfotol wetter part of the problem? I find my b/w negs a bit sticky after development compared to commercially developed C41 negs. Anyone can recommend a better wetter?

 

[enivre]

1) Does anyone have any tips to share on keeping film clean / dust free during the developing process and pre-scanning. I keep having squigly fibres turning up in my scans. Lately I have using a dust-buster on the film after loading into the film holder but does anyone have been suggestions?

2) Is Ilford's Ilfotol wetter part of the problem? I find my b/w negs a bit sticky after development compared to commercially developed C41 negs. Anyone can recommend a better wetter?

You first have to check if the dust is already stuck onto the film or it just settled on it during the scan.

If it's stuck on, then wash it again and try to dry it in an environment that has very little wind.

If it's settled onto the film during the scan, I suggest you buy an antistatic brush and gloves. It's not perfect but it'll get rid of about 1/2-2/3 of the dust.

 

[mdzmr]

Confuse. The mixing ratio for HC110 for Ilford Delta 400 is which one 1:7 or 1:31 for Dillution B. Normally what the normal ratio you guys apply and also what is timing if I want to use one of this ratio? Is it 7.5min?

Thanks in advance

 

[Ansel]

Confuse. The mixing ratio for HC110 for Ilford Delta 400 is which one 1:7 or 1:31 for Dillution B. Normally what the normal ratio you guys apply and also what is timing if I want to use one of this ratio? Is it 7.5min?

Thanks in advance

This is very good info on HC110. Use one of the higher dilutions (G, H) and extend your developing time for more interesting result.

http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/

 

[mdzmr]

Thanks Ansel.