BigFatLenses
New Member
usually i only select 1 focus point, the center one... and use evaluative metering as for now..
usually i only select 1 focus point, the center one... and use evaluative metering as for now..
its safe as long as you dont use too narrow a aperture.
i don't quite understand the first bit.. care to elaborate more to enlighten me?
i mean, if i compose first, then shift to the eyes to focus, won't the composition be lost unless i recompose?
I'd add on to bro night86mare's point...
if you don't have a godzillion number of AF points... shifting to the nearest and recomposing slightly is almost always a good way to get better focus... by the way, a good picture is often about good focus... not tact sharpness...
Modern day cams are way too sharp in my opinion... plus any sharpening can be down in post...
If you're starting to pick this up seriously... I'd suggest you try doing a walk-around session shooting at 1/60
Most vocational photogs are quite competant shooting at 1/80 with 1/125 being very comfortable for me.. work on technique, work on 'panning' your recomposition instead of rotating will usually ensure your focus stays relatively sharp.
Another way to get the most of your 50mm, shoot from a farther distance at 1.8
if you want to close the gap, getting a telephoto prime is the way to go.
*sign*.. no one believes that DoF of F1.8 is sufficient to cover the body thickness at a subject distance of 5m for a 50mm lens.. up to you lah.. it's your choice..
What is to be considered as a safe F no. for recomposition to be done without losing focus. I sometimes find at f2.8, recomposition of the frame will result in losing a bit of sharpness.
So the best bet is still to autofocus using the closest point, once AF locked, recompose and do minor MF adjustments. If under time constraits, then no choice, go wider, use a AF point, lock it and snap.
I'd add on to bro night86mare's point...
if you don't have a godzillion number of AF points... shifting to the nearest and recomposing slightly is almost always a good way to get better focus... by the way, a good picture is often about good focus... not tact sharpness...
Modern day cams are way too sharp in my opinion... plus any sharpening can be down in post...
If you're starting to pick this up seriously... I'd suggest you try doing a walk-around session shooting at 1/60
Most vocational photogs are quite competant shooting at 1/80 with 1/125 being very comfortable for me.. work on technique, work on 'panning' your recomposition instead of rotating will usually ensure your focus stays relatively sharp.
Another way to get the most of your 50mm, shoot from a farther distance at 1.8
if you want to close the gap, getting a telephoto prime is the way to go.
but i do agree with you. just that sometime will lose some detail at lower body part if i focus on model's face
ok im in a dilemma of upgrade my 50mm f1.8 into f1.4. dunno will tat help? mayb i did move my body too. mayb i need a single leg stand? lol
Hello all,
I encountered the same blurness with my 550d w 50mm f1.8...dunno why? Isn't the f1.8 supposed to be a good value for money lens
With the 50mm on a crop body, and most are full body shots, I presume you're standing > 5m away from the subject in most of the shots?
The DoF @ F1.8 at this distance is > 60cm. I doubt it is an issue of too shallow DoF + recomposing resulting in blurred subject, Unless during recomposing you shifted > 60cm in front or behind, which in practical sense, is quite unlikely.
The 50mm is known to be quite soft wide open, that's one possibility.
Another is the AF of the camera might be unreliable.
*sign*.. no one believes that DoF of F1.8 is sufficient to cover the body thickness at a subject distance of 5m for a 50mm lens.. up to you lah.. it's your choice..
If the model is in a siting pose for e.g., whereby other part of the body maybe closer to you, then yes, it may lie outside the DoF.. If it is in a same plane, then no reason why it would be outside the DoF.
Btw, I didn't recommend taking at F1.8. I'm just saying that the soft subject is not necessary due to the DoF issue. It could be bcoz the lens is soft at F1.8, or the AF on the camera/len combination not entirely reliable. Personally, I would not use F1.8 for this lens.
But if I have a better lens, say, the 50mm F1.2 or 50mm F1.4, I would certainty use F1.8 or bigger aperture as desired.
In summary, it's not the DoF at F1.8 causing the soft subject at that kind of subject distance.