D90 User Group (Thread IV)


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thanks coolthought! it was very helpful.

the IR one cost around $10? i look around the price is close to $20 sia.

anyone has any idea whats the pros and cons of the wired remote and the IR remote?
 

thanks coolthought! it was very helpful.

the IR one cost around $10? i look around the price is close to $20 sia.

anyone has any idea whats the pros and cons of the wired remote and the IR remote?

I was mostly using IR remote till it went for a swim with my pants in the washing machine. :sweat: now shooting exclusively on wired remote. Both work fine for me. However, I do need to adapt to both.
 

Both IR remote and remote cord have their strengths and uses.

Example for IR remote:
When shooting portrait/group photos where the photographer needs/wants to be in the shots... While you can use timer control, IR remote allows you to take your time (instead of rushing like a mad person)... Own time, own target... no pressure. On cam timer means everyone must be ready when it's ready to go off whether you like it or not. And then for subsequent shots you need to rush back and forth again to the camera to reset the timer and reshoot... For IR, no need - you can shoot multiple shots until you run out of memory space or battery...

Example for Remote cord:
Best when you do not wish to touch the shutter button in order to avoid unecessary shakes. It is an INVALUABLE and MUST HAVE tool when shooting fireworks... For IR remote, there will be a small delay (or missed IR hits) - that means high possibility most of the crucial moments will be missed. Remote cord is as good as your secondary shutter button WITHOUT the button-pressing shakes ... The cord is better when you're in a closely knit group of D90 users using IR remote - where other IR remotes will trigger off your camera unnecessarily...
 

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Not only D90... ;)
Most entry Nikons also kena triggered :)
 

Not only D90... ;)
Most entry Nikons also kena triggered :)

Oh? Besides D90, D5000, D3100, D3000 also uses same IR reading/signature (or whatever you call it) har? Wah like dat dun play play man... :bsmilie:
 

kriegsketten said:
Oh? Besides D90, D5000, D3100, D3000 also uses same IR reading/signature (or whatever you call it) har? Wah like dat dun play play man... :bsmilie:

You forgot the new kid in town, the D7000.
I think the IR remote, ML-L3, can trigger pretty much all the Dxx models and the D7000.
 

so remote cord is better ah? actually most of the time i see people using remote cord instead of IR remote. :bsmilie:
 

so remote cord is better ah? actually most of the time i see people using remote cord instead of IR remote. :bsmilie:

In my personal opinion, remote cord would be better, as it's more flexible, which is recommended for scenery shoot.

But if using IR remote (+ timer function), it should be pointed towards the IR sensor on camera body, which is recommended for self portrait shoot.
 

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so remote cord is better ah? actually most of the time i see people using remote cord instead of IR remote. :bsmilie:

"better" is subjective.

if u need a trigger for a landscape/fireworks/LE shot, wired is better. you dont need to point the trigger to the camera's IR sensor, you can still be behind the camera and shoot.

if u need to be in the picture, and/or the camera is some distance away from you, wireless is better. no cords to trip on, and i dont think they make cords more than a few feet in length.

so your needs will dictate which is "better". :)
 

Dear all, anyone of you encounter focus lagging when you half press the shutter on your D90?

I've been using D90 for close to 2 years, all this while i have no such problem.
Until about 2 months ago, i bought a MB-80 batt grip, i found that when i half press the shutter, the focusing takes a while to move (it only happen occationally, more serious in low light condition).
In short, when you half press the shutter, it takes 0.5-1 sec to start moving to acquire focus...like think a while then only move..

After removing the batt grip, same thing still happen, may not be due to the batt grip.. i guess.

From my pass experience, the focusing is just slower in low light condition, but it move imediately to acquire focusing whenever i start pressing the shutter.
I'd tested 18-105, 50 1.8, and 70-300VR lenses. All experiece the same this..

Any clue?
 

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Dear all, anyone of you encounter focus lagging when you half press the shutter on your D90?

I've been using D90 for close to 2 years, all this while i have no such problem.
Until about 2 months ago, i bought a MB-80 batt grip, i found that when i half press the shutter, the focusing takes a while to move (it only happen occationally, more serious in low light condition).
In short, when you half press the shutter, it takes 0.5-1 sec to start moving to acquire focus...like think a while then only move..

After removing the batt grip, same thing still happen, may not be due to the batt grip.. i guess.

From my pass experience, the focusing is just slower in low light condition, but it move imediately to acquire focusing whenever i start pressing the shutter.
I'd tested 18-105, 50 1.8, and 70-300VR lenses. All experiece the same this..

Any clue?
sounds like an unusual problem.

My first thought would be the AF motor or some of the mechanisms (gearing, etc), but then you said 'occasionally', and you also included some AFS lenses in your list of 'problematic' lenses.

hmmmm :think:....
If it's really bothering you a lot, and you need it rectified urgently, I would say best bet is NSC or bro fatigue.
 

thanks for the advice guys. i settled for MC-DC2 at $33 from NSC. :D
 

Dear all, anyone of you encounter focus lagging when you half press the shutter on your D90?

I've been using D90 for close to 2 years, all this while i have no such problem.
Until about 2 months ago, i bought a MB-80 batt grip, i found that when i half press the shutter, the focusing takes a while to move (it only happen occationally, more serious in low light condition).
In short, when you half press the shutter, it takes 0.5-1 sec to start moving to acquire focus...like think a while then only move..

After removing the batt grip, same thing still happen, may not be due to the batt grip.. i guess.

From my pass experience, the focusing is just slower in low light condition, but it move imediately to acquire focusing whenever i start pressing the shutter.
I'd tested 18-105, 50 1.8, and 70-300VR lenses. All experiece the same this..

Any clue?

Did you turn off the autofocusing light? I did encounter this, more prominently in low light after I had turned it off.
 

This is absolutely great! They made cameras for NASA's space travel programmes, gone through the wildest Amazon, survived the stampedes of Rhino and elephants in South Africa, breezes through those whistling bullets and thunderous ammos in hostile war fronts,.......

..... but their battery charger......... cannot withstand even once, of my accidental drop off a 0.8m table!


DSC_5309-r2.jpg


......am I really that destructive?:embrass::sweatsm::bsmilie:
 

so remote cord is better ah? actually most of the time i see people using remote cord instead of IR remote. :bsmilie:

I got the IR at first for the fireworks, but then the timer keep shutting it down at the presets timing until I missed a couple of interesting shots, ..... that I got pizzed, then one of those days after work, went all the way to CP Peninsula from the west, just to get the wire cord.....NOW, at least I should be more ready...:sweatsm::bsmilie:
 

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glad we all made a right choice in getting a remote cord! :D
 

Though I will not say IR remote is hopeless or no good, it works best when doing group/self portraiture, instead using the timer where you have to wait, and best of all it can be concealed between fingers easily and does not have a cord dangling.
 

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glad we all made a right choice in getting a remote cord! :D
There is no right or wrong choice.

They are both useful because they serve different purposes. Only you (the end user) can decide which to get.
 

I would suggest that if you are getting the cord one, get the IR cordless one too since it is relatively cheap. It may comes in handy.

there are also the third party ones with lots more useful functions for example like intervalometer and timer function.
 

The longer you shoot (in both situations), you'll end up with both... :)
 

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