D90 User Group (Thread III)


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you dropped it and its gone? :o
 

yeah i set it up on the flash stand (the plastic one provided) and was about to do some cls strobing at home club, was shooting my sister and her friend who was the DJ. someone bumped into the table my flash was on, and it fell down to hell :(

table was about waist height.

now it won't turn on! luckily i had a spare tumax to shoot, but didnt get a chance to do any strobing already after that. :(
 

yeah i set it up on the flash stand (the plastic one provided) and was about to do some cls strobing at home club, was shooting my sister and her friend who was the DJ. someone bumped into the table my flash was on, and it fell down to hell :(

table was about waist height.

now it won't turn on! luckily i had a spare tumax to shoot, but didnt get a chance to do any strobing already after that. :(

Might be something simple like a connection that got knocked loose. or might be something serious. You never know. Anyway, just bring it in to NSC to get an evaluation. Or look for fatigue.
 

the power of the flash is automatically adjusted when zooming right?

think for me the purpose of getting a speedlight is to do fill flash, light up ambiance and also to boost SS when lighting not strong enough to get rid of motion blur. any comments?
:rbounce:
 

it's correct... Just shows that Nikon was erreneous in stating ISO200, when DxO Labs measured actual sensitivity to be ISO145.

Dynamic range is greatest at the base/native ISO of 200, which is what I stated.

read THIS test of D90's dynamic range by Dpreview:
The D90's sensor has a native sensitivity of ISO 200, with ISO 100 equivalent available by using the Lo 1 setting. The dynamic range of Lo 1 has almost exactly one stop less dynamic range in the highlight regions, which is what you'd expect from what is essentially an ISO 200 image overexposed by a stop.

Beyond ISO 1600 the dynamic range figures appear to extend in the shadow regions. This is because our dynamic range test measures the shadow range when the dark areas reach a luminance level near black (or when they become too noisy), in these instances, we suspect the noise reduction is creating a dark gray blur such that our analysis tool doesn't recognise it as noise or as being close enough to black to stop measuring. As such we assume the values are in the region of those recorded at lower ISO settings.
 

how do we turn off the irritating light at the front of the cam when we're trying to shoot at something at night? wanna tou pai ppl also cannot leh...
 

yeah i set it up on the flash stand (the plastic one provided) and was about to do some cls strobing at home club, was shooting my sister and her friend who was the DJ. someone bumped into the table my flash was on, and it fell down to hell :(

table was about waist height.

now it won't turn on! luckily i had a spare tumax to shoot, but didnt get a chance to do any strobing already after that. :(

Might be something simple like a connection that got knocked loose. or might be something serious. You never know. Anyway, just bring it in to NSC to get an evaluation. Or look for fatigue.

I suspect some connections (maybe as simple as the battery connector) got loose, or broken.
2 choices:
a) DIY repair
b) send to NSC or someone capable, like Fatigue.

for my SB600, I would choose option a) :)
 

do u mean the red light?
tat's for assisting the auto-focusing.

or u mean the flash flashing?if so, then switch off red-eye reduction.

the flash beside fillin up etc etc, is also useful in tricky light situation where the cam is not able to detect the WB properly :D
 

do u mean the red light?
tat's for assisting the auto-focusing.

or u mean the flash flashing?if so, then switch off red-eye reduction.

the flash beside fillin up etc etc, is also useful in tricky light situation where the cam is not able to detect the WB properly :D

shootz.. not able to upload any pics from ofc..
its above the programmable function button...
 

shootz.. not able to upload any pics from ofc..
its above the programmable function button...
you mean on the camera...?
That's the AF assist beam. Can turn it off in the menu.
 

If your focus point is not in the center, the beam also won't light.
 

tryin to be sneaky while takin pics leh:devil:;p...LoL...
not the best choice of cameras to use especially a dslr due to size...LoL
 

ahh.. u have to be sneaky when ure taking pics of ur shy parents or bro's gf... hahhaha

If using auto-focus, better to disable the AF confirm beep as well.
 

Hi everyone, I need some help on the metering. Matrix, center weighted and spot metering.
What exactly are they? and which one would be more recommendable to use?
Thank you.
 

Hi everyone, I need some help on the metering. Matrix, center weighted and spot metering.
What exactly are they? and which one would be more recommendable to use?
Thank you.
matrix metering is roughly like the photo frame is divided into segments, each segment is processed to obtain optimum exposure. similar to average metering.

center weighted metering meters at the center of the photo frame where the main object is located

spot metering focus the metering on a small spot of the photo frame

most of the time i use matrix metering, in some occasion like taking a photo where the object is backlit, i will use spot metering
 

Hi everyone, I need some help on the metering. Matrix, center weighted and spot metering.
What exactly are they? and which one would be more recommendable to use?
Thank you.
Actually, this sort of thing, if you experiment on your own by fiddling with the settings and looking at the results, you'll grasp it much quicker.
Here, we can explain till the cows come home, and in the worst case scenario you might be even more confused.
 

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