D90 User Group (Thread III)

[ZerocoolAstra]

what do u mean by some primes will be too tight on a crop body? D90 is a crop body?

I guess the term 'crop body' is kinda of confusing for newbies, but the information is out there.

the 'crop' refers to the sensor, which is smaller than traditional 35mm film (the de facto standard).
thus it's as though you crop off the outer edges of the photo.

Nikon uses the terms 'DX' to denote its DSLRs with a smaller sensor, and 'DX' to denote its lenses that are basically only suitable for DX cameras.

ok ok I think it might be getting a bit heavy already. Will stop here.

 

[cheesy]

You can still shoot in Aperture priority. I shoot in that mode most of the time. you can choose your aperture you wish to use, and if shutter speed is too slow, bump up you ISO :bsmilie:

if you bump up the ISO the SS will automatically be faster?

should we let the camera do the settings automatically or we should just take control of it?

Say i wanna have less DOF for more bokeh, and i choose to use f2. If the shutter speed calculated by the camera still isnt fast enough for what i am shooting, then i bump up my iso till i get the shutter speed that i want. For EV in A mode its calculated for you ma, can make use of the EV compensation to get what you want. When shooting bright colours like white + EV, when shooting dark colours like black -EV

sorry but i cant really tell the difference between DOF and Bokeh.

how come when shooting bright/dark colours have to +EV/-EV? i thought if its too bight have to -EV and too dark then +EV?

 

[jeezuinn]

if you bump up the ISO the SS will automatically be faster?

should we let the camera do the settings automatically or we should just take control of it?

In A mode the camera chooses the shutter speed. So yes when you bump up the ISO the SS will automatically be faster. Whether you want to let the camera take charge of it or do it yourself manually is up to you. If you shoot in manual mode with the same ISO and same Aperture, the shutter speed you will need based on the metering will be the same as what the camera gives you.

sorry but i cant really tell the difference between DOF and Bokeh.

how come when shooting bright/dark colours have to +EV/-EV? i thought if its too bight have to -EV and too dark then +EV?

Try reading THIS for DOF and Bokeh.

Based on my understanding,when you're shooting a black bag, the camera assumes its underexposed, therefore intentionally making it brighter, which may result in a overexposed bag. Opposite goes for white. Sorry i cant give you a more technical or detailed explaination :bsmilie:

 

[bitez]

I guess the term 'crop body' is kinda of confusing for newbies, but the information is out there.

the 'crop' refers to the sensor, which is smaller than traditional 35mm film (the de facto standard).
thus it's as though you crop off the outer edges of the photo.

Nikon uses the terms 'DX' to denote its DSLRs with a smaller sensor, and 'DX' to denote its lenses that are basically only suitable for DX cameras.

ok ok I think it might be getting a bit heavy already. Will stop here.

oh meaning ur shot will actually turn out smaller than what you see in the viewfinder..? ok la not too heavy... i only know FX refers to full frame cameras.. thanks

 

[ZerocoolAstra]

oh meaning ur shot will actually turn out smaller than what you see in the viewfinder..? ok la not too heavy... i only know FX refers to full frame cameras.. thanks

not quite... viewfinder should approximate what you capture. Whether or not is another factor known as 'viewfinder coverage'.
For D90 it's 96% (someone correct me if I'm wrong) I think. This means you see 96% of what you capture.
In the D7000, D300s, and D3s/x series of cameras, you get 100% viewfinder coverage.

DX means the sensor is smaller. So if you compare the same lens (eg. 50mm f/1.8) on 2 cameras (eg. DX = D90 and FX = D700) side-by-side, on the D90 you'll get a "cropped" version of the D700's photo. There are websites that explain this better than what i'm struggling with here...

 

[bitez]

not quite... viewfinder should approximate what you capture. Whether or not is another factor known as 'viewfinder coverage'.
For D90 it's 96% (someone correct me if I'm wrong) I think. This means you see 96% of what you capture.
In the D7000, D300s, and D3s/x series of cameras, you get 100% viewfinder coverage.

DX means the sensor is smaller. So if you compare the same lens (eg. 50mm f/1.8) on 2 cameras (eg. DX = D90 and FX = D700) side-by-side, on the D90 you'll get a "cropped" version of the D700's photo. There are websites that explain this better than what i'm struggling with here...

thanks for the quite detailed explanation... no need struggle, i can roughly imagine.. will google some later..

 

[ZerocoolAstra]

Based on my understanding,when you're shooting a black bag, the camera assumes its underexposed, therefore intentionally making it brighter, which may result in a overexposed bag. Opposite goes for white. Sorry i cant give you a more technical or detailed explaination :bsmilie:

The camera meters for middle grey... ie it tries to make the black bag become grey. This results in overexposure. Therefore to compensate it, you dial in negative EV for a black object.

The opposite happens with white (eg. snow). The camera makes the snow become grey, resulting in underexposure (gloomy-looking scene). Therefore... and the rest is logical.

 

[jeezuinn]

The camera meters for middle grey... ie it tries to make the black bag become grey. This results in overexposure. Therefore to compensate it, you dial in negative EV for a black object.

The opposite happens with white (eg. snow). The camera makes the snow become grey, resulting in underexposure (gloomy-looking scene). Therefore... and the rest is logical.

Thanks. Much clearer and better explained

 

[cheesy]

In A mode the camera chooses the shutter speed. So yes when you bump up the ISO the SS will automatically be faster. Whether you want to let the camera take charge of it or do it yourself manually is up to you. If you shoot in manual mode with the same ISO and same Aperture, the shutter speed you will need based on the metering will be the same as what the camera gives you.



Try reading THIS for DOF and Bokeh.

Based on my understanding,when you're shooting a black bag, the camera assumes its underexposed, therefore intentionally making it brighter, which may result in a overexposed bag. Opposite goes for white. Sorry i cant give you a more technical or detailed explaination :bsmilie:

thanks for the link, its great. really have to spend some time to "study" it.

The camera meters for middle grey... ie it tries to make the black bag become grey. This results in overexposure. Therefore to compensate it, you dial in negative EV for a black object.

The opposite happens with white (eg. snow). The camera makes the snow become grey, resulting in underexposure (gloomy-looking scene). Therefore... and the rest is logical.

woah that means its like trying to capture the photographs as close as to the real life colour. not easy sia.

 

[ZerocoolAstra]

woah that means its like trying to capture the photographs as close as to the real life colour. not easy sia.

Your 'conclusion' like a bit different from the point I'm trying to get across leh...

 

[cheesy]

sorry bro can put into simpler terms?

if shooting black the camera will meter it to be gray therefore need to -EV
if shooting white the camera will meter it to be gray therefore need to +EV

how about in cases whereby its not to that extreme of the above 2 situations?

 

[ZerocoolAstra]

sorry bro can put into simpler terms?

if shooting black the camera will meter it to be gray therefore need to -EV
if shooting white the camera will meter it to be gray therefore need to +EV

how about in cases whereby its not to that extreme of the above 2 situations?

har? Still must be simpler???

errrr............
If it's in between then you - or + EV, but to a lesser extent?

 

[cheesy]

cause you mentioned that my 'conclusion' is different from the point that you were trying to bring across ma..

 

[quizesilver]

cause you mentioned that my 'conclusion' is different from the point that you were trying to bring across ma..

come out for an outing, most of your qns will be ans...

 

[ZerocoolAstra]

cause you mentioned that my 'conclusion' is different from the point that you were trying to bring across ma..

coz I was talking about exposure and you brought up "real life colour" ~scratch head~

see post #269

 

[cheesy]

is there some D90 outing then?

 

[jeezuinn]

is there some D90 outing then?

Its not exactly a D90 outing. A bunch of us d90 user met up and could clique well, so we decided to meet up again. Its not limited to D90 users though. Lets not OT here. You can find out more here

 

[cheesy]

thanks!

btw will having speedlight help to boost the SS? it should reduce motion blur too right?

 

[Jeremy1]

thanks!

btw will having speedlight help to boost the SS? it should reduce motion blur too right?

Hi, I am D700 user but also like to know about this.

I do not have any speedlight. I noticed that when I use my D700 pop-up flash, it does not boost the SS as shown in the indicator. But it certainly help to freeze the motion.

Thanks.

 

[ZerocoolAstra]

thanks!

btw will having speedlight help to boost the SS? it should reduce motion blur too right?

Flash photography is pretty complicated, but thankfully most DSLRs with modern flashguns help with the calculation to some extent. Hence I feel it has become an "art" more than a science nowadays
But essentially a flash provides illumination, that's it.
Whether it will allow a faster shutter speed or not will depend a lot on distance.
For example, if I'm standing at Merlion Park and photographing MBS. Even if I had 2x SB900, do you think my exposure will be affected at all?