quizesilver
New Member
yoz hi, welcome.
manual is your ans. i do not have it now. but it is there on how to make it continuous.
found.
pls read here
http://kenrockwell.com/nikon/d90/users-guide/menus-custom-shooting.htm#d7
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D90 User Group (Thread III)
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yoz hi, welcome.
manual is your ans. i do not have it now. but it is there on how to make it continuous.
found.
pls read here
http://kenrockwell.com/nikon/d90/users-guide/menus-custom-shooting.htm#d7
quizesilver
New Member
haha the L lens too heavy?? :sweat:
why not you create a folder everytime you shoot a new event or new things?
your D90 should be setting the no. to run continuously and thus when you copy over to your desktop. it should not over right any of the pictures taken previously.
what software are you using to transfer the photo to your computeR? you may want to check out the file numbering system in the menu. I have forgotten which section and the name of the function. will let you know tonight after i get home.
er.. gd qns.. no.. the body of canon is too light for my liking..
what i meant is.. any technic to produce sharp photos? not checking if your photo is sharp after taken it. ;p
there is some settings that you can adjust. cant remember what exactly it is but you can refer to the manual cause thats where i read it from.
iirc, you can shoot in B&W, just need to do the settings.
- Have your eye sight checked
- make sure you wear your specs {if you need}
- look into the view finder. If you find that its not sharp. Make adjustment manually.. your lens should be able to do it. just turn the knob
- Manual focus on your own to the desire outcome. {in this situation, your eyes will be the key factor}
^^
pasay
New Member
its on your manual. on your d90 menu, go to custom settings>d7 file number sequence>turn it to ON (default is OFF). if you're still having problems, go to page 182 of your manual :bsmilie:
chey.... haha. Shoot at the 'sweet spot' aperture of your lens and at a high enough shutter speed so that there will be minimal handshake.
General rule of thumb to prevent handshake blur is having a shutter speed of AT LEAST 1/focal length. try not to shoot wide open as it is normally not as sharp
If you ask me i would recommend the 50 1.8D. Images from it is nice and sharp, and at 50mm on a crop frame its quite comfortable taking half body shots and above. On top of that its a cheap lens to start with.
hmmm. you got to tell us what you're looking for. Low price or internal AFF motor?
Half body, shoulder or full body shots?
pasay
New Member
Try the Nikon AF-S 85mm F/1.4G
Very good for portrait.
:thumbsup: BBB virus alert. :devil: :bsmilie:
TS, even a kit 18-105, or even the 18-55 is a "good" enough portrait lens. depends on your style (whether u want the bokeh, or u always go f8-f11 as in studio shoots, full-body or tight headshots, etc) and your budget (50mmf1.8 on the low end, f1.4 primes on the high end). even the 70-200 f2.8 is a good portrait lens. once you know your shooting style and budget for portrait, the choice for lens becomes easier
kriegsketten
New Member
:what: 70-200 as a portrait lens? Sure, go for a wedding shoot! At the end of the day, your arms longer than your legs...:sweatsm: (WHILE STILL STANDING STRAIGHT!)
While you're considering the 85mm f/1.4 G, do look at 35mm f/1.4 G as well...
:what: 70-200 as a portrait lens? Sure, go for a wedding shoot! At the end of the day, your arms longer than your legs...:sweatsm: (WHILE STILL STANDING STRAIGHT!)
While you're considering the 85mm f/1.4 G, do look at 35mm f/1.4 G as well...
28mm f/1.4 also =X
pasay
New Member
:what: 70-200 as a portrait lens? Sure, go for a wedding shoot! At the end of the day, your arms longer than your legs...:sweatsm: (WHILE STILL STANDING STRAIGHT!)
While you're considering the 85mm f/1.4 G, do look at 35mm f/1.4 G as well...
70-200's IQ, bokeh, compression.. all are excellent in taking portraits. we are talking about portrait, right? nobody said portrait means it's a wedding shoot. you can mount on a tripod right? subject can sit or stand 6 feet away. still considered as portrait, right?
this is a portrait shoot/workshop. and wouldn't you know it, he's using a 70-200. :bsmilie: and if you can recognize the shooter, he's very good at taking portraits as well
and here's a video of another workshop of his. he even uses the humongous 200 f2.
sorry but can explain the part on "shutter speed of AT LEAST 1/focal length"?
still kinda new here..
sorry but can explain the part on "shutter speed of AT LEAST 1/focal length"?
still kinda new here..
erm say for instance you are shooting at 200mm, a safe shutter speed to use in order to prevent handshake blur would be 1/200 sec at least. But this is only a general rule of thumb. Also this only prevents handshake blur, but not the subject's motion blur,so if the subject is fast moving and your shot still comes out blur, make the shutter speed faster
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