kentwong81
Senior Member
How many of you use Manual Mode to shoot? In Manual Mode, will you adjust the shutter speed so that the EV will go to 0?
D90 User Group (thread II)
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iandao
New Member
If you use manual, and you adjust shutter to 0 for everyshot, what's the difference from using A mode? :dunno:
kentwong81
Senior Member
hmm...in A mode, you set the F value, but the camera will set the shutter speed for you?
Yup. and the shutter speed set is equal to the EV meter at 0 (when doing Manual).
kentwong81
Senior Member
Yeah, I think they are all similar modes.
However, sometimes when I set the shutter speed to match 0 EV value, the photo is still overexposed, but sometimes it is underexposed. Is it metering problem? I usually use the Matrix Metering. Or are you guys able to judge which EV value to be used for every situation? Or you need to take a few shoots with different EV value and then pick the best one?
However, sometimes when I set the shutter speed to match 0 EV value, the photo is still overexposed, but sometimes it is underexposed. Is it metering problem? I usually use the Matrix Metering. Or are you guys able to judge which EV value to be used for every situation? Or you need to take a few shoots with different EV value and then pick the best one?
quizesilver
New Member
use spot metering for more under expose pic. depending on where u are pointing
Metering is inanimate. It is based on a set of rules. The photographer (you) is supposed to be the one to understand the lighting and know which metering mode to use (center weighted, Matrix, Spot).
If you know what to meter, where to meter, how to meter for a specific situation, you can get very close to perfect metering.
That is why the camera give you the choice to adjust EV compensation, and also gives you M mode where you can do your own metering. If camera does everything for everyone, there is no need for photographers already. Any tom dick or harry can be pro photographer without any skill and know how.
kentwong81
Senior Member
Mind to share how you do the metering and use the camera to measure the metering? Like know when to use the EV value 0, -/+ 0.7, etc...
kriegsketten
New Member
There is no hard and fast rule... it takes a lot of practice to gauge, hence not easy to answer your question. Sometimes you take one shot and see, if too dark - up the EV, if too bright - lower the EV... Practice man, boils down to a lot of practice. The more you do it, the more you know when to set to which EV. It will also depends on what image setting you use, standard, neutral, vivid, etc... all these will require different EV values. Eg. Set +1 EV in Vivid mode looks okay, but when you switch it to Standard mode, image will be overexposed. And the list goes on and on... This is a DSLR where you as the photographer needs to read up and understand a lot of concepts first, patience is the key - some peeps take forever to learn, some just instant. The jump from PnS to DSLR is a huge step, so you'll need to read up a lot and understand on the concepts - research, practice and patience.
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Krieg is right. There is no hard and fast secret manual. You need to practice and need to learn the ropes. The first step is to understand exposure well.
I use spot metering a lot, even when doing landscape photography. I use spot metering to tell me what the exposure is at certain parts of the frame. For example, I would meter the bright sky, then meter the dark foreground. With the metered exposures for these 2 elements, I will know how far apart they are in terms of getting a good exposure. From that, I will decide which final exposure values to use. Or if I need to use a GND to pull the 2 exposures closer together so I can take it all in, in one shot. Or if the exposures are too far apart, so I will expose for the sky in one shot, then expose for the foreground in another shot, then blend the 2 pics together in PP (called exposure blending).
When shooting portrait, I would prefer to get the face of my subject to be correctly exposed. I will use spot metering on the face, then lock the exposure, focus on the eyes, then shoot. This will make sure the face of my subject is exposed correctly. If the background is bright, this will effectively blow the highlights of the background. But I did this by choice, because I want the face (which is my key point of interest) to be exposed correctly.
So in the end, you need to think, what you are shooting. What do you want to be correctly exposed. How do you want them exposed. The examples I gave are just two of the many many situations you will run into. Understanding exposure is key. So you can wield it like a tool to get the shot you want. If you use M mode, know why you are using it. Not just because you think it looks cool. If you use M mode, select an F stop, then roll the shutter speed till the EV meter says 0, you are doing what the camera will do in A mode. Just that you are doing the work for the camera. So it is a waste of energy, and you will wear out your dials unnecessarily.
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kentwong81
Senior Member
Hi, when you said "you would meter the bright sky, then meter the dark foreground", how do you meter it? Select spot metering then move the focus point to the bright sky and dark foreground?
Some times I do that, sometimes I use the center spot. Depends if I've already locked down the ball head for the composition I want.
Hi pasay, thank you very much. i try to practice more on it.
personally, i cant hand-hold without blur in anything less than 1/30s. so you might want to try faster shutter speeds like 1/40, 1/50 or 1/60s. mind you though, faster shutter speeds mean less light comes in, making your pics dark. compensate by lowering your f/stop to around f2.8 (or lower) if you lens can manage it. if you cant lower down your f/stop number, try bumping your ISO up (but i see you're already at 1250, more than what most would recommend as IQ seriously deteriorates).
why use M mode and still go 1/10s? :dunno: try A mode with your lowest aperture setting then increase ISO until your camera gives the desired shutter speed (1/40 and up). i suggest you practice with P, A, and S modes first til you understand how aperture, shutter speed and ISO work together. and practice often
hi quizesilver, thank you, but i only has the build in flash, ok?
The white circle is what I actually see. Now I know that it's not a defect, I wonder after so long, Now is the first time i'm seeing it! :embrass:
Hiaz... Need to spend more time playing with my D90. :cry:
Try to remove the whole batt for while n put it back.....
Aiyoh. There is nothing wrong with the camera la. That line is the LED feed to the AF point indicator.
quizesilver
New Member
yes. u will be ok.
er.. the red line appearing is normal. Its part of D90 function.
It does helps when you need to compose your photo.
If you find it irritating can off 1.
Hi,
I'm contemplating buying an external flash ie. SB900 to mount on my D90.
Is it a great flash?
I'm totally noob to flash. Besides the flash, do I need to get a diffuser or something else?
I'm thinking of getting it to photograph my sister's ROM at a hotel poolside during evening.
If not, is there an alternative?
I'm contemplating buying an external flash ie. SB900 to mount on my D90.
Is it a great flash?
I'm totally noob to flash. Besides the flash, do I need to get a diffuser or something else?
I'm thinking of getting it to photograph my sister's ROM at a hotel poolside during evening.
If not, is there an alternative?
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