D90 Poison Club - TCSS Part I


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daredevil123 said:
Distortion will be there for UWA. thing is you need to see if the distortion is complex or simple.

To read reviews on sharpness (MTF) and overal review conclusions. Best is to look at photozone reviews.

Nikon 10-24 Photozone review.

MTF (resolution) AKA Sharpness
The lens produced excellent center resolution figures in the lab and shows very good to excellent borders at all focal lengths, an impressive performance. At the extreme corners things are a little different though. While very good at the longer focal lengths (with the exception of 18 mm wide open), the corner resolution at 10 mm is very poor wide open and the lens needs to be stopped down to f/8 to reach good resolution figures (but only just "good").

Distortion
10 mm is a rather extreme focal length and some barrel distortion is to be expected here. However, at 3.1% the Nikkor shows a fairly large amount of it, certainly more than the competition. The good news is that at longer focal lengths distortions are very well controlled at around or slightly above 0.5%, switching from barrel to pincushion distortion between 14 and 18 mm.


Tokina 11-16 Photozone review (tested on canon APS-C)

MTF (resolution) AKA Sharpness
The resolution figures of the Tokina are highly impressive and the best that we've seen in this class (within the Canon scope). The lens did not show a single significant weakness throughout the range. The center resolution is excellent, even outstanding towards the long end, and the borders are easily on a very good level at large apertures and excellent around the sweet spot at f/5.6. The extreme corners are not much worse. This may show that a short zoom range can be actually very desirable when it comes to quality.

Distortion
Surprisingly Tokina managed to keep the level of distortions quite well under control. At 11mm there're still fairly pronounced barrel distortions (2.1%) but this is still comparatively low for such a lens. The problem decreases when zooming out towards the long end - at 14mm the barrel distortions are hardly objectionable anymore (1%) and they're almost negligible at 16mm (0.5%).

On a personal level... I find the Tokina 116 very very sharp and you get F2.8. You only need to stop down to F5.6 for the sweet spot at 11mm. For Nikon the sweet spot at 10mm is F8. But with the nikon you have a much bigger range of focal length.

You might also want to take a look at Sigma AF 10-20mm f/4-5.6 DC EX HSM. The test results are quite good. Just that the distortions at 10mm is a little complex but still very manageable. Sharpness is definitely better than the Nikon at 10mm, but it loses to Nikon in Vignetting at 10mm. But you should know the Sigma is a lot cheaper than the Nikon. Not a shabby lens, as seen by the excellent results shown by our very own award winning landscape expert Night86mare. He uses the Sigma 10-20 on his Pentax APS-C camera.
Click to expand...


Thanks bro...

Yeah, I think I will get the Tokina 11-16mm
 

winkoo88 said:
Very soon bro.



Find out the price day

New - $9**
2nd hand - $8**

:think: which 1 should I go for???
Click to expand...

New if 2nd hand is hard to get or the seller did not take care of it properly.

I would prefer new than 2nd hand if the price difference is not tt great.
 

skylover said:
New if 2nd hand is hard to get or the seller did not take care of it properly.

I would prefer new than 2nd hand if the price difference is not tt great.
Click to expand...

OK, Yeah, is abt 100 different.
 

winkoo88 said:
OK, Yeah, is abt 100 different.
Click to expand...

Please note that Tokina warranty I think is 2 or 3 years...

So if get used, get one that still have warranty. If no warranty, 800 will be overpriced. Since you can get the Tokina 116 in HK for around 800 new and still enjoy 1 year international warranty.
 

Last edited:
winkoo88 said:
Very soon bro.



Find out the price day

New - $9**
2nd hand - $8**

:think: which 1 should I go for???
Click to expand...

For 2nd hand, it depends on how confident you're with the checking part.

1) check for scratches, body - front / rear lens elements. Dents/cracks - signs of accidental dropage. Bring a torchlight for this.
2) dusts - internal dust, a little, too much or none? Best of course is none. Normally, there will still be some light dust especially on the lens, so don't over-nitpick. New items from store will have some light dust too. See if you can dust it off using a lens pen brush - if the dust can be removed or moved, then no problem.
3) put it on your DSLR to check out that all the mechanisms are in good working order. No funny sounds (sign of motor going to break down soon).
4) Try focusing - snap a few images and check close up to see if there are focusing issues (Tokina 11-16 have a fair share of lemons - it's on the internet). Check for exposure as well... (some have problems with it using D80 I think). if images not sharp no matter how you focus on the VF, then something is wrong.
5) open the apertures up and down (using aperture ring on lens, and the rotating screw on D90) - make sure no error message pops up.
6) check for zoom - that you can zoom in and out without a problem.
7) Check if all items are in - warranty card/ receipt/ bag, hood, box, etc etc (if all claimed to be included in the sale)

To be fair to the seller, use rubber gloves so that you don't accidentally leave thumb prints (nor can he/she complain about anything).

If not confident? Buy new - and still check the above to make sure you don't end up with a lemon (or else later you ended up on B n S yourself)....

All the above should apply to any brand of lenses, not just Tokina. The experienced ones, please fill in any other missing details that I've missed.
 

Last edited:
Went comex today, nothing is cheap :bsmilie::bsmilie::bsmilie: Probably only the harddisk from Western Digital.
 

kriegsketten said:
For 2nd hand, it depends on how confident you're with the checking part.

1) check for scratches, body - front / rear lens elements. Dents/cracks - signs of accidental dropage. Bring a torchlight for this.
2) dusts - internal dust, a little, too much or none? Best of course is none. Normally, there will still be some light dust especially on the lens, so don't over-nitpick. New items from store will have some light dust too. See if you can dust it off using a lens pen brush - if the dust can be removed or moved, then no problem.
3) put it on your DSLR to check out that all the mechanisms are in good working order. No funny sounds (sign of motor going to break down soon).
4) Try focusing - snap a few images and check close up to see if there are focusing issues (Tokina 11-16 have a fair share of lemons - it's on the internet). Check for exposure as well... (some have problems with it using D80 I think). if images not sharp no matter how you focus on the VF, then something is wrong.
5) open the apertures up and down (using aperture ring on lens, and the rotating screw on D90) - make sure no error message pops up.
6) check for zoom - that you can zoom in and out without a problem.
7) Check if all items are in - warranty card/ receipt/ bag, hood, box, etc etc (if all claimed to be included in the sale)

To be fair to the seller, use rubber gloves so that you don't accidentally leave thumb prints (nor can he/she complain about anything).

If not confident? Buy new - and still check the above to make sure you don't end up with a lemon (or else later you ended up on B n S yourself)....

All the above should apply to any brand of lenses, not just Tokina. The experienced ones, please fill in any other missing details that I've missed.
Click to expand...

Wow bro, thanks for sharing...

I think I should bring u along when i buying 2nd hand lens...:bsmilie::bsmilie::bsmilie:
 

Ongoinglearner said:
Went comex today, nothing is cheap :bsmilie::bsmilie::bsmilie: Probably only the harddisk from Western Digital.
Click to expand...

SD card n CF Card Cheap???

How cheap is the harddisk from western digital??
 

Ongoinglearner said:
Went comex today, nothing is cheap :bsmilie::bsmilie::bsmilie: Probably only the harddisk from Western Digital.
Click to expand...

All IT fair is not cheap. It has never been cheap. The only thing that is attractive there is the freebies which most people think its good.
 

skylover said:
All IT fair is not cheap. It has never been cheap. The only thing that is attractive there is the freebies which most people think its good.
Click to expand...

I agree. Some people gian the freebies, then go IT fairs to buy, but in many cases only to find that the freebies are not of good quality, and do not last. in the end they pay more to get the freebies that do not last, or that they do not need, when the extra money paid could have been used to buy other useful stuffs. i guess the freebies aren't really freebies after all :bsmilie:
 

skylover said:
All IT fair is not cheap. It has never been cheap. The only thing that is attractive there is the freebies which most people think its good.
Click to expand...

Actually not all items are cheap but it happened that yesterday when my friend was there to look for harddisk and so happen one of my school mates (from another booth) was there selling and we checked the prices. So we found out the prices of the WD HD was quite cheap. Don't ask me which one sorry, too many names to remember but I kind of recall there's one named Essential or something.
 

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