D70i - Conversion Precaution

[deadpixel]

We have all probably visited most of the websites that detail instructions on how to convert your D70 for pure IR photography, so I don't think it's necessary for me to post photos of my conversion process. However, there are two details that no one else seems to have mentioned, so I'll just toss in my two cents worth into the D70 IR conversion pool of ideas.

Firstly, unless you're prepared to pay for repairs or you're sure that your D70 is from a good batch, do try to wait until your camera has been treated for the deadly BLOD. If NSC notices that you've made some mods, it would completely ruin your chances of getting an FOC repair.

Secondly, and more importantly, after you've removed the base and back covers but BEFORE you remove the screws holding down the board with the CCD, check the following:

Look closely at three circled areas in the photo, paying particular attention to the arrowed points. You'll notice that there are orange/red lines drawn from the screws, down to the metal plate and across to the black plastic. In some cameras, particularly if it has been sent in for repairs, these lines may be present, drawn in by the technicians. They serve as guides for you when you replace the CCD board, so if they are not present, do yourself a favour and draw them.

Once you've removed the board, you'll notice that the holes for the screws are actually large enough to permit the board to be moved a couple of millimeters in various directions. You really don't want to remount the CCD board crooked or off-center otherwise you'd be wondering why your horizones are never level, eventhough you used the guide lines in the viewfinder.

Hope this is useful for potential "modders".

Cheers,
Matt

 

[live33]

Cool! Btw, where did you get the IR pass filter from? Edmund Optics?

 

[deadpixel]

Cool! Btw, where did you get the IR pass filter from? Edmund Optics?

No, I got myself a normal Hoya R72 filter and cut it down to the correct size with a glass cutter. You could also use the Long Pass filter from Edmund Optics, it's a polycarbonate filter so will be much easier to cut when compared to the glass Hoya R72.

Cheers,
Matt

 

[Pablo]

Hi deadpixel,

Just had a thought. Have you used a polarizing filter since you modded the camera?

Would you see any benefit ? (I would imagine that the normal blue of skies and contrast of cloud effects would still be usefull ?)

By the way, I am thinking of asking the guys at "Nikon repair" to do the mod for me when I send my D70 in for repair.

What would you consider the best filter replacement brand/type? As it will be a permanent change to the camera.

If it is a particular glass filter that has to be cut down, then that is what I will do.

Cheers )

 

[deadpixel]

Hi Pablo,

Haven't had a chance to try out the polarizers yet, but from previous test of the stacking of polarizers with IRs, I'm incline to believe that I'd get some better skies out of the D70i. As it stands, with only the Hoya R72 over the sensor, I'm getting blues that are quite tamed.

I believe that most Nikon Service Centres will oblige their customers if such a request is made, but you'd have to make it clear to them that you understand that any warranty you have remaining on the camera (or perhaps just on the AA filter) would be void.

The choice of filter would depend on the effect you hope to achieve. Either glass or hard resin types would be fine. The resin types would be easier to cut though.

If you're going for pure black and white shots, a Hoya R90 or B+W 093 would be good. You could also try a Lee or W87 but I'm not comfortable with Gel filters for this purpose. If you'd still like to take "colored" IR, than you'd have to use the Hoya R72, Cokin P007, B+W 092 or even an ELP. The problem I find with the ELP is that there seems to be too much visible light passing through, resulting in unsatisfactory results. For "colored" IRs with very deep blue, you'll want to go with either the Cokin P007 or B+W 092.

One thing that I've found interesting is that the focusing of some lenses now needs to be compensated by an even greater amount than was previously necessary. This issue is discussed and documented in a couple of sites and I'm presently conducting tests to see if I really want to adjust the focusing by myself.

Good luck on the repairs.

Cheers,
Matt