D7000 Discussion Thread II

[night86mare]

Pentax k5 users started to complaint about the same issue. Maybe the sensor that commonly used by k5 and d7k tends to heat up too easily. But according to some owners who own both, k5 seem like having better control over the issue.

must be the bunch that likes to complain, like ricehigh.

i have been using my k-r for many long exposure photos, at the NORMAL ISO RANGE of 100-200. no issues, with LIVE VIEW in use.

 

[jackychua]

A tips for those who claimed they see hot pixel in movies even at setting ISO 400. Plase verify that in the movie setting, if your manual movie setting is set to 'ON'. In that case, the camera will not overwrite your ISO input.

I can see my hotspot @ ISO1600, and it became obvious at ISO3200. That's kinda 'normal' to me, since at ISO 800, I didn't see any, and from my understanding, I don't need ISO 1600 and above for video shooting (If I would need this kind of sensitivity, then probably I'd need a proper lighting for the subject lol)

I think u caught the point, i find out the same thing last night. Should be Nikon mistake to override by default and jump up the liveview/movie to more then iso800. This tends to heat up the sensor too much and causes hot pixel even in still photo.

My set so far so good since I prevent switching to live view/movie before LE shoot.

 

[jackychua]

must be the bunch that likes to complain, like ricehigh.

i have been using my k-r for many long exposure photos, at the NORMAL ISO RANGE of 100-200. no issues, with LIVE VIEW in use.

Maybe they are group of Nikon fans also.
Anyway, as long as it dun show up on my pictures. I am ok. So far it have been quite fine since I put manual restriction to the liveview/movie to iso800. I dun care about movie. Mine seem like constantly got 4 or more hot pixels showing in movie and liveview for video mode. I am not going to dig it, Coz I dun shoot movie using my d7k.

Btw, out of curiosity. U never use anything out of iso100-200? Y u call it as normal iso?
For me, iso800 is my base to shoot my baby without flash in indoor.
Iso800 to 1600 seems very commonly used by me for indoor events shooting, no flash.
Iso200 to 400 for indoor events, with flash.
Iso100 to 200 outdoor, strong light.

 

[jackychua]

must be the bunch that likes to complain, like ricehigh.

i have been using my k-r for many long exposure photos, at the NORMAL ISO RANGE of 100-200. no issues, with LIVE VIEW in use.

Regarding ricehigh. Seem like some of his points tally with some other users claims such like:
over strong AA filter in K5. Some of the d7k owners on other forum did say the hot pixel issue is lesser on k5 due to the AA. But this only apply to jpeg output.

I Nv try and see k5 in details personally. So no comment.

 

[CorneliusK]

Btw, out of curiosity. U never use anything out of iso100-200? Y u call it as normal iso?
For me, iso800 is my base to shoot my baby without flash in indoor.
Iso800 to 1600 seems very commonly used by me for indoor events shooting, no flash.
Iso200 to 400 for indoor events, with flash.
Iso100 to 200 outdoor, strong light.

night86mare already said that thats his settings for long exposure shots, not for all shots. I'm sure that when he is shooting other things like cats at night, he will use other iso settings.

 

[LBL2009]

btw, I uploaded some photos to flickr.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/56291454@N06/with/5203649165/

and the settings
0265-d7k test image on iso800,f22,5s
0266-d7k test image on iso1600,f22,5s
0639-d7k test image on iso800,f32,10s

DSC_3076-d90, iso400,f32,3s
DSC_3067-d90, iso3200, f32, 1s
DSC_3065-d90, iso800, f32, 2.5s
DSC_2789-d90, iso1600, f10, 1/1600s
DSC_2781-d90, iso1600, f20, 1/1600s
DSC_2764-d90, iso1600, f25, 1/2000s
DSC_1872-d90, iso1600, f10, 1/1600s
DSC_1941-d90, iso1600, f32, 1/250s
DSC_1931-d90, iso1600, f32, 1/800s
DSC_1854-d90, iso1600, f32, 8s


all d7k photos having hot pixels(not sure able to see at the uploaded quality and size or not,you might say I pixel peep, ), the hot pixel is fix at few places and appear to be intermittently.

I couldn't find any. :embrass:

 

[night86mare]

Btw, out of curiosity. U never use anything out of iso100-200? Y u call it as normal iso?
For me, iso800 is my base to shoot my baby without flash in indoor.
Iso800 to 1600 seems very commonly used by me for indoor events shooting, no flash.
Iso200 to 400 for indoor events, with flash.
Iso100 to 200 outdoor, strong light.

er, i shoot cats

i don't think i really want a ghostly cat running around for 5 seconds at f/22.

i don't see how you would use f/22 for all these situations you mention. such great depth of field is not required, and thus you would never reach the stage of "long exposure" per se, based on your test of iso1600, f/22, 5 seconds.

it's like you use a torch, and it's fine 99% of the time.. but you just pick at the 1% of the time when it's not bright enough.

the idea for photography was always to use the lowest iso possible for the best IQ. that is a fact.

referring back to your earlier scenario, where you want to shoot cars without car movement for 5 seconds - i am still curious as to which traffic junction has the cars moving for nearly 5 seconds (assuming a normal traffic light). reducing it to f/16 or so (and also avoiding diffraction, while having quite a good starburst effect), and extending your exposure timing to 10-15 seconds (which is definitely doable, if you bother to wait for the next round), would dictate a lower iso usage. i'm sure you can do the math to determine what sort of iso you need... probably around iso 400. i wager you won't get any hot pixels (or as much).

this is why i am wondering why you are deliberately just pushing the camera for the sake of doing so. it just doesn't make much sense to me.

 

[night86mare]

I couldn't find any. :embrass:

hot pixels are in the eye of the beholder? :bsmilie:

 

[night86mare]

Regarding ricehigh. Seem like some of his points tally with some other users claims such like:
over strong AA filter in K5. Some of the d7k owners on other forum did say the hot pixel issue is lesser on k5 due to the AA. But this only apply to jpeg output.

I Nv try and see k5 in details personally. So no comment.

ricehigh is a weird guy who seems mildly schizoprenic.

if he doesn't like pentax so much, just switch lor.... sibeh boh liao :bsmilie:

 

[jackychua]

hot pixels are in the eye of the beholder? :bsmilie:

I can't find it on the flickr upload too. Maybe the picture quality and size issue.

 

[jackychua]

er, i shoot cats

i don't think i really want a ghostly cat running around for 5 seconds at f/22.

i don't see how you would use f/22 for all these situations you mention. such great depth of field is not required, and thus you would never reach the stage of "long exposure" per se, based on your test of iso1600, f/22, 5 seconds.

it's like you use a torch, and it's fine 99% of the time.. but you just pick at the 1% of the time when it's not bright enough.

the idea for photography was always to use the lowest iso possible for the best IQ. that is a fact.

referring back to your earlier scenario, where you want to shoot cars without car movement for 5 seconds - i am still curious as to which traffic junction has the cars moving for nearly 5 seconds (assuming a normal traffic light). reducing it to f/16 or so (and also avoiding diffraction, while having quite a good starburst effect), and extending your exposure timing to 10-15 seconds (which is definitely doable, if you bother to wait for the next round), would dictate a lower iso usage. i'm sure you can do the math to determine what sort of iso you need... probably around iso 400. i wager you won't get any hot pixels (or as much).

this is why i am wondering why you are deliberately just pushing the camera for the sake of doing so. it just doesn't make much sense to me.

erm. i should say, there is definitely a need for the settings at the time of capturing the frame. but I din say that is the only settings to capture the frame.

i do not stay at the same scene for long time during travelling with my wife. thus I just shoot and go without thinking much like a pro.

basically there is only less then 5 second for all the cars from all directions to stop at a busy junction.

as for the sunset or sunrise scene, basically there is no time for you to think. It happened too fast during winter. It happened to be lot of photographers at the same scene and just came over to ask me what setting am I using to capture the preferred scene because they have no time to adjust/wait and I ngam ngam caught it.

so.. lets not question about settings. you got thousand and one reason/theory/calculation to say someone setting is wrong / not good. but I am not saying my settings is the best or perfect settings. What is the point? most importantly is you able to capture the scene within your preference.

btw, iso100-200 to capture a running cat? should be bouncing light using flash right? or the cat is sleeping?

just for sharing..
i shoot my dogs too. but normally using iso400 or 800 because
1) flash will frighten my dog, even using soft bounce.
2) not able to adjust my external flash swirl head to bounce correctly coz the noise while adjusting it.. and finally.. it might cast shadows due to that..
3) iso100-200 without flash casting ghosting effect, coz shutter speed and my old hand shake.

 

[night86mare]

erm. i should say, there is definitely a need for the settings at the time of capturing the frame. but I din say that is the only settings to capture the frame.

i do not stay at the same scene for long time during travelling with my wife. thus I just shoot and go without thinking much like a pro.

basically there is only less then 5 second for all the cars from all directions to stop at a busy junction.

as for the sunset or sunrise scene, basically there is no time for you to think. It happened too fast during winter. It happened to be lot of photographers at the same scene and just came over to ask me what setting am I using to capture the preferred scene because they have no time to adjust/wait and I ngam ngam caught it.

so.. lets not question about settings. you got thousand and one reason/theory/calculation to say someone setting is wrong / not good. but I am not saying my settings is the best or perfect settings. What is the point? most importantly is you able to capture the scene within your preference.

btw, iso100-200 to capture a running cat? should be bouncing light using flash right? or the cat is sleeping?

just for sharing..
i shoot my dogs too. but normally using iso400 or 800 because
1) flash will frighten my dog, even using soft bounce.
2) not able to adjust my external flash swirl head to bounce correctly coz the noise while adjusting it.. and finally.. it might cast shadows..
3) iso100-200 without flash casting ghosting effect, coz shutter speed and my old hand shake.

i don't shoot running cats, i like my cats to be acting cute... running cats tend to look like they're running...

at night, i use iso1600, iso3200 to shoot cats... i'm not sure if you have read through my last post explaining that while i would use HIGH ISO to shoot cats, i would not need a LONG EXPOSURE to capture them.

i may not be very good at photographing, but i would like to think that for natural light photography (not involving flash), my technicalities in that aspect are perfectly sound, thank you very much. naturally, it is a given that no one would be successful at capturing cats for long using iso100/200 all the time.

no time to think during winter? i have experienced 3 winters overseas, each time, i had sufficient time to compose and shoot. if you are arriving on the dot of the sunset, and the light is dying, you only have yourself to blame... or your tour guide (i don't believe in joining those tour agency guided tours, if one wnats to photograph).

 

[jackychua]

i don't shoot running cats, i like my cats to be acting cute... running cats tend to look like they're running...

at night, i use iso1600, iso3200 to shoot cats... i'm not sure if you have read through my last post explaining that while i would use HIGH ISO to shoot cats, i would not need a LONG EXPOSURE to capture them.

i may not be very good at photographing, but i would like to think that for natural light photography (not involving flash), my technicalities in that aspect are perfectly sound, thank you very much. naturally, it is a given that no one would be successful at capturing cats for long using iso100/200 all the time.

no time to think during winter? i have experienced 3 winters overseas, each time, i had sufficient time to compose and shoot. if you are arriving on the dot of the sunset, and the light is dying, you only have yourself to blame... or your tour guide (i don't believe in joining those tour agency guided tours, if one wnats to photograph).

understood that nobody use LE to shoot pets.

yes. no doubts very fast. it depends on when and where you shoot.
especially at the moment the sun become visible/invisible.

i normally backpack. no one to blame. if you catch it, it is nice. if you din, at least you enjoyed at the scene with your love one, not just busy adjusting the camera.
enjoy travelling is the main interest, while shooting nice picture from it is just secondary.

live is short. enjoy it.

 

[CorneliusK]

Perhaps you have certain settings which you prefer, but what people are trying to tell you is that there are reasons why you should not use those settings for the type of photography you are doing.

High aperture, (like f22) - you will suffer from lower sharpness due to diffraction, in addition, you do not need such high aperture to get starburst effect. Using a bigger aperture will allow you to use a lower ISO also.

High iso - You will suffer from worse colour, worse dynamic range, worse grain etc. Better to use the lowest iso possible if you are going to use a tripod.

 

[SnagIt]

I don't normally comment on forum but I hope you 2 kindly refrain from debating shooting techniques here. People like me coming to this thread to find out about D7000 and its issues because I am of the of the pontential D7000 buyers, not to find out which aperture/ISO to shoot cats/landscape. Peace.

 

[PaulKami]

i don't shoot running cats, i like my cats to be acting cute... running cats tend to look like they're running...

Yea, I'm one of the fans in your thread: http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/showthread.php?t=386990&page=38

:bsmilie:

 

[night86mare]

understood that nobody use LV to shoot pets.

yes. no doubts very fast. it depends on when and where you shoot.
especially at the moment the sun become visible/invisible.

i normally backpack. no one to blame. if you catch it, it is nice. if you din, at least you enjoyed at the scene with your love one, not just busy adjusting the camera.
enjoy travelling is the main interest, while shooting nice picture from it is just secondary.

live is short. enjoy it.

i use iso100, 200 with LV with ND110 over for long exposures for LANDSCAPES.

zzz. this is such a painful experience, discussing this with you, you seem to pull everything out of the hat randomly.

bye.

 

[jackychua]

Perhaps you have certain settings which you prefer, but what people are trying to tell you is that there are reasons why you should not use those settings for the type of photography you are doing.

High aperture, (like f22) - you will suffer from lower sharpness due to diffraction, in addition, you do not need such high aperture to get starburst effect. Using a bigger aperture will allow you to use a lower ISO also.

High iso - You will suffer from worse colour, worse dynamic range, worse grain etc. Better to use the lowest iso possible if you are going to use a tripod.

yes. I understand. I did mentioned about the picture softness. higher iso when shooting sunset or evening and creating the grain looks cool sometime.
as I said, thousand and one reason for you to say that it is wrong or right.

I don't normally comment on forum but I hope you 2 kindly refrain from debating shooting techniques here. People like me coming to this thread to find out about D7000 and its issues because I am of the of the pontential D7000 buyers, not to find out which aperture/ISO to shoot cats/landscape. Peace.

agree and true. I am just answering cause people question about the usability of the iso range and questioning the scene that I am shooting.
from the very early of the thread, I am just telling in which setting d7k tends to show hot pixel. and i did mentioned pros and cons of the d7k.
those who really concern actually just quiet or send pm to me.

btw, anyone owner starting to hunt for higher capasity cards?
gosh. d7k raw image is huge. luckily it got dual slot. but got to upgrade NAS soon!

 

[jackychua]

i use iso100, 200 with LV with ND110 over for long exposures for LANDSCAPES.

zzz. this is such a painful experience, discussing this with you, you seem to pull everything out of the hat randomly.

bye.

correction. is nobody use LE to shoot pets. not LV.

 

[Valjean]

1682 (body only) + 915 (Tamrom 17-55mm VC version) + 7% (GST) = $2778.79

If you try to ask other stores this will cost you more than $2,800

Thanks for sharing pricing. After GST, that works out to almost $1,800 for D7000 body.