D600 User Thread
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Not sure if it is this thread, but I thought i rem reading someone ask how to choose which sd cards to preview, and some suggested pulling out the card from 1 of the slot.
There's another method: while in playback mode, press and hold "bkt" and press up. A menu will prompt asking which slot to display. Hope it helps
Thank you for this info bro! I was looking for this.
Another Nikon noob question
I have configured the back AEL button as AF-On for Focus and Recompose. Is this the only way to achieve it in Nikon? I'm kind of too used to doing half-press & recompose in Canon.
I have configured the back AEL button as AF-On for Focus and Recompose. Is this the only way to achieve it in Nikon? I'm kind of too used to doing half-press & recompose in Canon.
Np lightyear2011
If u wan to half press to AF, just set the "AE-L" button to AE-L/AF-L function. AF should work with half press, it is the default setting actually...
If u wan to half press to AF, just set the "AE-L" button to AE-L/AF-L function. AF should work with half press, it is the default setting actually...
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My experience was that my D600 AF was hunting and just wouldn't fire at all cos it couldnt find focus when I was trying to take some shots in a pub. I took shots without any problems with my D7000 before in the same place so I was actually thinking there was something wrong with my new camera. Its was only when I switched the focusing to manual that I could shoot with the new camera. Not happy.
I went shooting at a night event a few days ago and I would definitely agree that the D600 hunts in low-light, and it takes a considerable bit of time to lock focus, but once it does, image quality is still decent.
Bullterrier and infinex, can u elaborate how dark are u talking about? Maybe share the aperture/shutter and ISO so we can roughly guage the environment... And also what lens u were using
Sounds almost impossible but if you say so.
50mm f1.8 D.
28-85mm f3.5-4.5
Tried both lenses with same outcome. I even attached my SB400 cos I wasnt sure what went wrong but it wont fire. Later I realised it was the focusing that cause the camera to not fire. Switched to MF and everything was fine.
Not dark in my books. I shot with D7000 and Fuji X100 at the same place before. Never encountered this issue. I checked that my AF illumination light was on as well. Quite surprised about the matter. Hope the seniors here can point me to something I am doing wrong?
I was using a 28-300mm 3.5-5.6 and it was like a dark night, only illuminated by a few really ambient fluorescent lights. As the lens was dark itself already, the camera kept re-focusing but not really locking until some time. Could it be because my AF-assist illuminator was off? Seeking advice from others to overcome this problem..Could others share your settings?
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1/60 f5.6 iso6400 260mm
M 1/13 f5.3 iso6400 220mm
After seeing the issues mentioned by bros above, I did a quick test 10 mins ago. So this is a fresh test from the "oven".
I off my bedroom light, switched on my bedroom toilet light and closed the toilet door almost fully, allowing just a small ray of light through the door.
First pic shows how the ambient looks like.
Pic 2 after I adjusted the exposure.
Did the lens hunt? You bet it does, I nearly cannot see the subject through VF.
Can it lock focus? Yes it can as shown above. I used Manual exposure, AF, Spot metering, and lock AE/AF button after focus was locked before I recomposed and pressed the shutter. Focus was on the eye of the subject. I do not use AF assist light. Lens used is consumer lens 70-300 VR. AF-A Single mode, hand-held.
Bottom line is, I will not wanna shoot in that kind of environment. Was the pub as dark as what is shown in Pic 1? If it isn't, then I suggest to the affected bro to bring your camera to NSC for a check up.
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Thanks for the write-up wolfton, I learned a few tips and I will try shooting again. This is really helpful and informative, and thanks for sharing your settings as well.
No problems. I am no expert in reviews and things like that, just share my amateurish test and views.
One thing to note is I like the so called "noise" of this camera. Not those shown above of course, as they are taken in extreme darkness. But in normal usage, you will notice that the grains or noise produced by this camera is very pleasing. When using telelens or in low light situations, I have no qualms in moving the ISO up to maintain a faster shutter. When I do a print out, the grains on the pictures actually look really nice and natural. For many of my prints now, I don't do the noise reduction in PP anymore, even up to ISO 3200. Those that I have printed before, I intend to redo them by removing the NR too. That's my personal preference now.
Hi
I am unable to download my RAW files onto Iphoto, - any reason for this and how can I overcome this problem, thanks -
I am unable to download my RAW files onto Iphoto, - any reason for this and how can I overcome this problem, thanks -
For the auto forcus mode, to take portrait or still picture, we can use single mode if on AF-A. Can we not use 9-pts, 21-pts or 39-pts ? What difference does it make ? Faster focusing on single pt ?
What about if still picture but wider or bigger group ? To use 21-pts and 39-pts ?
So if to use AF-A auto, will it encompass all the senario ?
What about if still picture but wider or bigger group ? To use 21-pts and 39-pts ?
So if to use AF-A auto, will it encompass all the senario ?
The Dynamic-9/21/39 points would mostly be for keeping a moving subject in focus, so there are extra points surrounding the centre to keep track of the moving subject in the viewfinder(e.g 9 or 21 points surrounding the centre or if you want to use the entire 39 points to track the subject.
But for portraits/mainly any relatively stable, stationary object, not using the dynamic points would not affect it, as AF-S set to Single mode and focusing on the main subject would suffice.
For group shots, I guess the AF-A mode would suffice well-enough as the camera is capable of detecting faces so group shots are not a problem.
Please correct me if I am wrong in certain areas as this is what I have gleaned from reading some sites. I hope this helps!
But for portraits/mainly any relatively stable, stationary object, not using the dynamic points would not affect it, as AF-S set to Single mode and focusing on the main subject would suffice.
For group shots, I guess the AF-A mode would suffice well-enough as the camera is capable of detecting faces so group shots are not a problem.
Please correct me if I am wrong in certain areas as this is what I have gleaned from reading some sites. I hope this helps!
The Dynamic-9/21/39 points would mostly be for keeping a moving subject in focus, so there are extra points surrounding the centre to keep track of the moving subject in the viewfinder(e.g 9 or 21 points surrounding the centre or if you want to use the entire 39 points to track the subject.
I understand from the manual. However if I fix it at 39 pts, then I don't need to adjust in any scenario. So what is the trade off if using 39 pts for portrait or still picture ? Slower focusing ?
No trade-offs I presume. I see what you mean, if you want all 39-AF points, you could just select in the menus, no need to use dynamic range 39,although I don't presume there would be any difference if you use D-39 albeit no need. Maybe others can point out noticeable differences because I don't assume there would be any.
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