[ Compiled Info ] - Cool accessories for EP1/2, GF1 and other m4/3 cameras


...........................
Since I already superglued it on my M-mount adaptor, I can't try it on my other C-mount & SR-mount lenses. Next week i'll be getting another M-mount lens, I'll try to see if it makes a difference.
LOL, you sure its worth it or not henavs? :bsmilie::bsmilie:
 

Really Right Stuff L-Plate

Now they have it for the E-P1/E-P2, and I think should work for E-PL1 too. Only for those with the right ballhead though

Really Right Stuff L-plate for Pens

What is it for ? http://reallyrightstuff.com/QR/05.html

BOEP1L-front.gif

BOEP1L-vertical-rear.gif


Good stuff ;)
 

Last edited:
I'm guessing you're talking about longer focal length with bigger apertures, like 40mm f/1.4. From what I read, focal lengths below 35mm causes edge and corner smearing in all examples and that's actually a lousier image quality. I'm sure manual focus works very well on the Panasonic 20mm f/1.7 ?

That's right, below 35mm, only saw Canon FD so far have no such problem of corner smearing.

MF on Lumix 20mm is fine, although a bit difficult since it is very small. It is easier to AF with this lens.


.
 

That's right, below 35mm, only saw Canon FD so far have no such problem of corner smearing.

MF on Lumix 20mm is fine, although a bit difficult since it is very small. It is easier to AF with this lens.


.

Here's a test shot from nikkor 28 f2.8 AIS lens on m4/3, i find it pretty acceptable, of course different people will have different expectations.

4261321650_706ede536b_o.jpg



,,,
 

Here's a test shot from nikkor 28 f2.8 AIS lens on m4/3, i find it pretty acceptable, of course different people will have different expectations.

,,,

Well, add the Nikon to the list of below 35mm that has no noticeable smearing :), thanks.


.
 

I've already disabled the chip contacts with tape, at least for now :bsmilie:

Ok, the problem I encounter is its really inconsistent in detecting critical focusing point. the AF confirm will sometimes light up/beep eventho nothing is in focus. Other time the AF confirm light will blink, indicating it can't focus, eventho focus has already been achieved.

Another issue is it underexposes very badly.

Since I already superglued it on my M-mount adaptor, I can't try it on my other C-mount & SR-mount lenses. Next week i'll be getting another M-mount lens, I'll try to see if it makes a difference.

I tried the old focus confirm chip for 4/3 mounted on a OM dapator and again mounted on a MMF-1

seems to behave the same as you described. my theory is it has to do with the focusing point of the PENs being too big, unlike in 4/3 where it has a more precise focus area.
 

Last edited:
Used 20mm f1.7 before, excellent lens, but never try it on manual focussing. For the price of 20mm, can get a Nokton 40mm f1.2, but manual focus lah :)

Judging from your reply, "better lens" actually means better because of longer with bigger aperture. Would you say or did you find if you take same picture, same scene, same settings, comparing same crop factor, Nokton is better than Panny 20mm in terms of sharpness or other technical factors? Curious to understand if image quality actually improves on using these lenses.

MF on Lumix 20mm is fine, although a bit difficult since it is very small. It is easier to AF with this lens.

I don't think it is harder compare to a Leica/VC knob. The M-lens knob rotates about 180 degrees for 0.7m - infinity. The 20mm actually goes almost full circle (or more) between 0.3m - infinity. I would say 20mm MF is more accurate?
 

I don't think it is harder compare to a Leica/VC knob. The M-lens knob rotates about 180 degrees for 0.7m - infinity. The 20mm actually goes almost full circle (or more) between 0.3m - infinity. I would say 20mm MF is more accurate?

Electronic manual focus on lumix with true mechanical manual focus lenses is a total different experience. For me as a seasoned MF lens user, i find it harder as there is no feel to the lumix mf ring as it is electronically coupled. Full circle or more may not be a good thing if you need to focus fast, my super takumar only has about 40deg of focus range, but its advantage is you can focus fast and spot on if you are good. It's the same as driving cars; steering feedback from a toyota is different from a honda to a BMW, i personally like to sacrifice some comfort in return for some feedback.
 

Judging from your reply, "better lens" actually means better because of longer with bigger aperture. Would you say or did you find if you take same picture, same scene, same settings, comparing same crop factor, Nokton is better than Panny 20mm in terms of sharpness or other technical factors? Curious to understand if image quality actually improves on using these lenses.

I don't think it is harder compare to a Leica/VC knob. The M-lens knob rotates about 180 degrees for 0.7m - infinity. The 20mm actually goes almost full circle (or more) between 0.3m - infinity. I would say 20mm MF is more accurate?

Well, did not say anything about rotation, I said it's small. Personally, it is very small for me to be fully effective at MF, maybe you have little hands so it's ok for you. On the other hand, operating the Voigtlander Pancake lens was a lot easier because of the design of the focusing ring.

On image quality, IMHO, you are already on the wrong foot equating it only to sharpness and resolution. For example, why do some people who can easily afford the latest sharpest highest resolution Leica ASPH lenses still prefer pre-ASPH ? Why do some people prefer the Olympus 17mm over the 20mm ? And so on ... it can be a long discussion for this cool accessories section, maybe you can make a new thread.


.
 

Well, did not say anything about rotation, I said it's small. Personally, it is very small for me to be fully effective at MF, maybe you have little hands so it's ok for you. On the other hand, operating the Voigtlander Pancake lens was a lot easier because of the design of the focusing ring.

On image quality, IMHO, you are already on the wrong foot equating it only to sharpness and resolution. For example, why do some people who can easily afford the latest sharpest highest resolution Leica ASPH lenses still prefer pre-ASPH ? Why do some people prefer the Olympus 17mm over the 20mm ? And so on ... it can be a long discussion for this cool accessories section, maybe you can make a new thread.
Actually was thinking of creating a thread for manual focussing users to introduce good, cheap lenses and showcase their images, you do the honour lah clubgrit, i'm not experience enough :bsmilie::bsmilie:
 

Well, did not say anything about rotation, I said it's small. Personally, it is very small for me to be fully effective at MF, maybe you have little hands so it's ok for you. On the other hand, operating the Voigtlander Pancake lens was a lot easier because of the design of the focusing ring.

On image quality, IMHO, you are already on the wrong foot equating it only to sharpness and resolution. For example, why do some people who can easily afford the latest sharpest highest resolution Leica ASPH lenses still prefer pre-ASPH ? Why do some people prefer the Olympus 17mm over the 20mm ? And so on ... it can be a long discussion for this cool accessories section, maybe you can make a new thread.


.

So the gis of it is still not clear. Manual lens is "better lens" because image quality, based on own comparison, or preference or "better lens" because pretty,physical metal,easier to manually focus etc?
 

LOL, you sure its worth it or not henavs? :bsmilie::bsmilie:

lol, guess its ok. since i planned to replace my lens anyway :D


I tried the old focus confirm chip for 4/3 mounted on a OM dapator and again mounted on a MMF-1

seems to behave the same as you described. my theory is it has to do with the focusing point of the PENs being too big, unlike in 4/3 where it has a more precise focus area.


yeah, could be also
 

Gariz Leather Case on my E-P2 for those whom might be interested.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290439501444

Cheers

Thanks for that, best case I've seen so far, IMHO.

Cheaper here, I think:
http://www.gariz.com/?doc=cart/item.php&it_id=1279460829

Poison too strong, now I have to go to the street with this sign :

http://www.fotothing.com/photos/891/8918c32dfaa015e986ccd25cc483c29e.jpg


.
 

Last edited:
does e-p2 have those cheap waterproof plastic-bag type casing? which brand to recommend?

i got no money for underwater housing.. just need it for snorkeling
 

Back
Top