[Comparison] LEE Big Stopper vs B+W ND110
- Thread starter Francis247
- Start date
There are some shots I took with the big stopper that shows a red band. This went straight to the bin but am curious if anyone knows what that is, and how to avoid it? It doesn't appear in every picture.
Light leakage.. Did u cover ur viewfinder in LE?
It has nth to do wif the ND filter , rather lights seeping into the viewfinder n wreck havou
Could have been from the distance scale window also if you have a distance scale window... even the 24-70 has been shown to give some light leakage.
And the big stopper comes with some foam sides... did you accidentally leave a a little opening?
hmm...imo you should have corrected your white balance prior to putting on the filters. That way it will accurately show how the filters affects the white balance (under the exact same WB values), rather than putting it on first and setting WB to auto, which the camera adjusted by itself and the values will be different for both filters...
yup shooting in raw doesnt matter, since u can change WB in post processing.
However what i mean is that since he is doing a review on how the 2 filters affects the temperature of the photos, by setting a fixed and corrected white balance prior to using the lens, it will more accurately show how the filters affects white balance.
Thanks for your comments.
Why I use Auto WB because all these while, I have tried Auto WB and it is giving me the best results for B+W ND110.
As to why am I using B+W ND110 as the reference is because, so far, in comparing those 10 Stop ND filter (I used to owe a Hoya ND400), I find that with Auto WB and with B+W ND110, the colour cast is close to neutral.
Since I shoot in RAW, I can adjust to the colour temperature when needed.
Will post the photos when I got time.
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The TS wanted some feedback/ review on Hoya NDx400? Mine give me a blue cast, deeper than your Big Stopper, and it has a hint of green, making it almost purple. Very hard to correct. Whenever I shoot with NDx400, I would take another shot without, just to get the correct colour, and then use PhotoShop's Match Colour to replace the colour of the NDx400's shot.
Looking at your comparison, I can appreciate the appeal of the ND110. It is a pain each time I shoot with NDx400, just thinking about the colour correction I have to do later. The ND110 is almost spot on, so easy. But yes, I have seen some other post where the Big Stopper produce very good results, of course the post did not mention if colour correction as part of the work flow. I hope Hazmee's letter works, and LEE to pull their socks up.
Looking at your comparison, I can appreciate the appeal of the ND110. It is a pain each time I shoot with NDx400, just thinking about the colour correction I have to do later. The ND110 is almost spot on, so easy. But yes, I have seen some other post where the Big Stopper produce very good results, of course the post did not mention if colour correction as part of the work flow. I hope Hazmee's letter works, and LEE to pull their socks up.
Oops...forgot about covering the window and viewfinder. Will do so next time. Thanks for the tip!
My Big Stopper also have a bluish cast. Since all my shots were in RAW, I went back to all of them, corrected the WB to 9040K, all the warm tones came right back.
The next question I'd like to ask is - is it possible to preset the WB (to 9040K) first before shooting it with the Lee? If it's possible, then using the Lee is just that extra step... Will try when I get the chance.
No problem with the Lee, probably just required some fine tuning (like all import cars to get that extra zoom zoom for your bucks
)
The next question I'd like to ask is - is it possible to preset the WB (to 9040K) first before shooting it with the Lee? If it's possible, then using the Lee is just that extra step... Will try when I get the chance.
No problem with the Lee, probably just required some fine tuning (like all import cars to get that extra zoom zoom for your bucks
)
My Big Stopper also have a bluish cast. Since all my shots were in RAW, I went back to all of them, corrected the WB to 9040K, all the warm tones came right back.
The next question I'd like to ask is - is it possible to preset the WB (to 9040K) first before shooting it with the Lee? If it's possible, then using the Lee is just that extra step... Will try when I get the chance.
No problem with the Lee, probably just required some fine tuning (like all import cars to get that extra zoom zoom for your bucks
IIRC, the semi-pro bodies from canon and nikon allow for users to dial in the custom WB values. i know the pro-bodies like 1D-series and D2/3-series can.
Yes, I'm using a D90 currently. And yes, you can use custom WB with this model. My point of asking is, should we just shoot it first using Auto WB, then PP later to bring the warm tones up to speed? Or is it better to customise the WB on the DSLR first before shooting? What are the pros and cons of doing either? At the moment, I can think of none...
Maybe the more experienced can chip in with their knowledge...
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Yes, I'm using a D90 currently. And yes, you can use custom WB with this model. My point of asking is, should we just shoot it first using Auto WB, then PP later to bring the warm tones up to speed? Or is it better to customise the WB on the DSLR first before shooting? What are the pros and cons of doing either? At the moment, I can think of none...
if ur shooting raw, it doesnt matter i guess:think:
Yes, I'm using a D90 currently. And yes, you can use custom WB with this model. My point of asking is, should we just shoot it first using Auto WB, then PP later to bring the warm tones up to speed? Or is it better to customise the WB on the DSLR first before shooting? What are the pros and cons of doing either? At the moment, I can think of none...
haha... age old problem. personally, i prefer to get it right in camera then to photoshop later.
if you are shooting RAW like francis247, perhaps u can stick with AWB and adjust later to suit your preference. in fact, if you are shooting in RAW and using custom WB, doesn't really matter cos you can still adjust. but, if you are like me shooting JPGs most of the time, then getting it right in camera saves you a lot of headaches later.
Well, true... But the point I'm asking is, maybe it is better to fine tune the WB first before shooting? That way you can gauge if you've truthfully captured the colours of the scene. If you wait to PP later, you might have already forgotten what it looks like, unless you managed to shoot a few before or after you've slapped the Big Stopper on for comparison sake...
Then again, maybe I'm making a mountain out of a mole hill once again... :dunno:
Thanks for your opinion. For jpegs, it would save much headache to fine tune first. I guess I'd really need to try this for myself to see which is the better alternative...
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There is a reason why I use Auto WB instead of setting the WB straight upfront.
I usually shoot in RAW for landscape and using Auto WB allows for one additional WB to play with.
If you set to Custom from the start, you will not know how your camera will react to the filters.
I usually shoot in RAW for landscape and using Auto WB allows for one additional WB to play with.
If you set to Custom from the start, you will not know how your camera will react to the filters.
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You're probably right. But I'm also curious to know how the custom WB will affect the coolness of the Big Stopper... Will just have to give it a try one day... :bsmilie: Worse comes to worst, it doesn't work and one will just have to fall back on Auto WB... The testing will benefit those who have the habit of shooting in jpeg as well.
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Hi there, can users of LEE big stopper clarify if it is necessary to cover the viewfinder? If i remembered correctly I read from somewhere that since the mirror flips up during the shot, there will be no light coming in from the viewfinder. I think there had been previous posts related to this but not sure if there was any conclusion :dunno:.
My Big Stopper also have a bluish cast. Since all my shots were in RAW, I went back to all of them, corrected the WB to 9040K, all the warm tones came right back.
The next question I'd like to ask is - is it possible to preset the WB (to 9040K) first before shooting it with the Lee? If it's possible, then using the Lee is just that extra step... Will try when I get the chance.
No problem with the Lee, probably just required some fine tuning (like all import cars to get that extra zoom zoom for your bucks
Yes you can custom preset your WB but I'm not sure if the amount of adjustment is the same for different scenes.
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