CLS on D50
- Thread starter owrwe
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D50 can not do cls by itself. You need SB800 or SU800 to act as a commander. Can not using SB600 as SB600 can not act as commander.owrwe said:thx a lot gooseberry! i've read about the SB-600, but it seems like no one could confirm that the D50 pop-up flash cannot trigger the sb600!
i'll try to do without it then! too bad... unless i get an SU-4!
take care all! and thx!
If you only want SB600 triggered by D50's built-in flash, you need additional su4 flash trigger slave to put on SB600's hotshoe. SB600 don't have su4 mode (SB800 have su4 mode). You also need to set D50's flash to Manual mode, since the preflash in iTTL mode will fool the sb600 (with su4 flash trigger slave). Sb600 don't have Auto mode, so you need to set it Manual mode also. Everything is manual.
If you have SB800 and want it to be triggered by D50's built-in flash, set SB800 to SU4 slave mode, and set to Auto mode (or Manual mode). Set D50's built-in flash to Manual mode, and set camera's aperture according to flash's guide (or vice versa).
Regards,
Arto.
kniveswood
Member
I could confirm.owrwe said:
:thumbsup: for Arto's explanation.
To reduce shadows with your built-in flash, you can buy the diffuser for built-in flashes made by Lumiquest. I have one and it works quite nicely. I can't remember how much it costs, but it's definitely less than $20. I got mine at Cathay Photo.
However, if you really wanna try using an off-camera flash, then just get an affordable/cheapo slave flash and shoot your camera in manual exposure mode. It's quite easy. Adjust shutter speed/aperture until you get the right exposure.
Best to do that first. I almost never regret buying truly cheap things.
However, if you really wanna try using an off-camera flash, then just get an affordable/cheapo slave flash and shoot your camera in manual exposure mode. It's quite easy. Adjust shutter speed/aperture until you get the right exposure.
Best to do that first. I almost never regret buying truly cheap things.
kniveswood
Member
The only "slave" mode is the one that is only triggerable by a commander flash._espn_ said:
thx all for you input! I've come to the conclusion that i need at least an SU-4 now.
benedium: i've tried playing with my dad's old manual flash, and all my pics were white... iso 200, flash power to minimum, aperture set to f4.6, shutter < 1/1000s.
only as from shutter >= 1/1000s did i start seeing some details... oh well...
but the SB600 manual gave some equations to calculate the output power. so, i'll try to use it.
guess i'll have to play more with the flash and learn by experience.
benedium: i've tried playing with my dad's old manual flash, and all my pics were white... iso 200, flash power to minimum, aperture set to f4.6, shutter < 1/1000s.
only as from shutter >= 1/1000s did i start seeing some details... oh well...
but the SB600 manual gave some equations to calculate the output power. so, i'll try to use it.
guess i'll have to play more with the flash and learn by experience.
kniveswood
Member
You shouldnt be trying to control manual flash with shutter speed. Becoz flash is so fast (exactly how fast i dont know), there will be little to no effect on the results no matter which shutter speed u chose. What r u affecting is ambient light.owrwe said:
Try using a higher aperture. U should see noticable difference just by up'ing aperture a stop.
The other factor would be flash-to-subject distance. Needless to say, the further u r, the less bright ur subject will be.
That's why TTL is very useful, as u r not limited by distance and aperture.
kniveswood
Member
I doubt that thing can do TTL like the SU-4.Artosoft said:
thx, will try!kniveswood said:You shouldnt be trying to control manual flash with shutter speed. Becoz flash is so fast (exactly how fast i dont know), there will be little to no effect on the results no matter which shutter speed u chose. What r u affecting is ambient light.
Try using a higher aperture. U should see noticable difference just by up'ing aperture a stop.
The other factor would be flash-to-subject distance. Needless to say, the further u r, the less bright ur subject will be.
That's why TTL is very useful, as u r not limited by distance and aperture.
I heard the flash time is around 1/800s. and that the sync time is 1/60s. Got the same advice somewhere else. will need to play with it more.
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