Black n White Photo Lovers - Minoltian

[yeocolin]

I'm going to shoot buildings and was wondering if xp4 125 or delta 100 is more appropriate? Please advise and share what is the strength of weakness of either film for architecture. Thanks.

I understand its better to use orange filter for architecture, is that right?
:think:

 

[hoppinghippo]

I'm going to shoot buildings and was wondering if xp4 125 or delta 100 is more appropriate? Please advise and share what is the strength of weakness of either film for architecture. Thanks.

I understand its better to use orange filter for architecture, is that right?
:think:

if you're doing archi then why not go for ilford Pan F or some other ISO 50 film to get finer grains? as for filter usu it comes in handy to dramatise the sky, but if the sky ain't blue don't use it. I suggest you try yellow and orange or red plus w/o any filters, cuz the effects varies and it may not be what you want.

 

[Jerry]

Hi, another black and white minoltian shooter here. Have been shooting black and white since I started out photography and yes, it includes the whole package: shooting, processing, printing. Films used include HP5, tri-x, tmax etc. Was shooting tri-x consistently for a period of time till, like Andy, realised once that the roll seems a bit weird (but could be due to many factors). Anyway, like the tone of HP5 and the pushing capibilities of tmax. Sadly, haven't been able to use a darkroom for a long long time already - both due to lack of time and the unavailbility of a convenient darkroom. Nowadays, i have my B&Ws contact printed at fee fee and sometimes pick some to have it printed at konota using colour paper - not too bad but i still believe I can usually do a better job if i print it myself. And oh .... also kodak's HIR (infra red).

 

[The_Cheat]

Hee~! I don't know what sort of shooter am I. And since I'm still a newbie in photography, the only film that I'd used was Tmax100. Shot 4 rolls so far, with barely passable results.

Been having a big headache with B&W though, cos I still don't know how to process the B&W film myself. And since I didn't like the waiting for a week, and paying about twice as much as that of processing colour negs in the standard labs, I'm still not so keen in shooting in B&W. Any kind sould free to guide this newbie in processing b&w film?? :dunno:

 

[-7-]

Guys n Gals,

At last, manage to voice out here...

I'm actually GoKuu, but some prob. occured after I made some changes... definitely is my mistake. Anyway, I'm not a stranger here, -7- a.k.a. GoKuu.

Well, pretty excited as I'm gonna get back my sent in for service Yashica FX3 old prime lens tomorrow.

And in my mind, there are already few types of B&W films to try out with it adn my Dynax5.

HP5...IR film... hmmmm :lovegrin: cool.....

I'll oneday develope and make my own B&W print...

Thanks Vader for the brief yet important point on the contrast...

Cheers!!!

 

[-7-]

Btw guys, I have a question to ask...

I usually shoot on B&W film and send in for develope + contact print at Ruby. Then I'll select some of my favourites to be printed in 8R size...

Now, since I do not know and do not process the printing of my B&W photos, by looking at the contact print, can I request them to have my 8R size in a special request way? For example: higher contrast or something like that? Is there any distinctive or measureable parameter to tell them which level of contrast I want? soemthing like +1.0, +1.5...? just a wild guess, looking forward to hear from the experienced....

Cheers

 

[vader]

Hey, we can get together and we'll talk on processing B&W....how bout that?

Like jerry, I cannot find time to go to darkroom to print my pics.....but there is a solution.....from the contact print, I usually get the agfa lab beside konota to generate a 4R print.....I'll need them to get the contrast for the main subject of the pic right.....then when I send the negs to be hand printed, I'll tell the guy to burn or dodge as per my instructions.....


processing negs is not as hard as you all think man... ;p

Jerry....the tri-x pan I've process out seems to be fog my man.....at 1st I thought I underfix it but concentrated fixer still cannot fix the film !! WTF.....haiz.....wasted my 120 rolls and my effort...... :cry: that was like 1 1/2 yrars back....but now...kodak has change the emulsion....hope it's ok now....processing timing needs to be redefine.....

 

[hoppinghippo]

vader: maybe your fixer was overused hence the fog? was it fresh?


-7-: why don't you register with a similar nick like gokuu_ or gokuu- or something like that? anyhow what you can do to save $$$ is if you have the scanned pics of your BW neg, simply print it out on normal paper AFTER you PS it to the way you want it to be, ie. dogde and burn digitally, alter contrast etc, then when you get it printed just give them the printed copy and tell them to try their best to achieve that.

 

[-7-]

Thanks Hippo!! not a bad idea... I always print out using my printer. Well, will c how it goes later.

Guys, wanna get some opinions... if i intend to scan my negatives / positives into digital form for storage, should i scan it and keep it in RAW file or TIFF file or JPEG will do?

Gather for a kopi or bak chor mee for a B&W conversation and learning session (for me) is a greaaaaaaaaat idea!!! but i dun have any B&W experiences to exchange, just started not so long ago, shot <20 rolls so far... still trying and studying which one i like so far... up till now, it's Ilford... ILFORD ROCKS!!!!

Cheers!!

 

[vader]

vader: maybe your fixer was overused hence the fog? was it fresh?

I use concentrated man.......tat means no add water...

 

[ileaf]

Hey, we can get together and we'll talk on processing B&W....how bout that?

Like jerry, I cannot find time to go to darkroom to print my pics.....but there is a solution.....from the contact print, I usually get the agfa lab beside konota to generate a 4R print.....I'll need them to get the contrast for the main subject of the pic right.....then when I send the negs to be hand printed, I'll tell the guy to burn or dodge as per my instructions.....


processing negs is not as hard as you all think man... ;p

Jerry....the tri-x pan I've process out seems to be fog my man.....at 1st I thought I underfix it but concentrated fixer still cannot fix the film !! WTF.....haiz.....wasted my 120 rolls and my effort...... :cry: that was like 1 1/2 yrars back....but now...kodak has change the emulsion....hope it's ok now....processing timing needs to be redefine.....

ON ON ON! must learn more about this B&W thing. vader, all depends on you liao :embrass:

 

[vader]

haha, good good say. was think of bak cho mee at this point of time at 3.16 am....kekeke......as long as there is gathering and I'm available, we'll sit down, lim kopi and talk B&W... :bsmilie:

 

[Bren]

Hey, we can get together and we'll talk on processing B&W....how bout that?

Like jerry, I cannot find time to go to darkroom to print my pics.....but there is a solution.....from the contact print, I usually get the agfa lab beside konota to generate a 4R print.....I'll need them to get the contrast for the main subject of the pic right.....then when I send the negs to be hand printed, I'll tell the guy to burn or dodge as per my instructions.....


processing negs is not as hard as you all think man... ;p

Jerry....the tri-x pan I've process out seems to be fog my man.....at 1st I thought I underfix it but concentrated fixer still cannot fix the film !! WTF.....haiz.....wasted my 120 rolls and my effort...... :cry: that was like 1 1/2 yrars back....but now...kodak has change the emulsion....hope it's ok now....processing timing needs to be redefine.....

Have been using the Tri-X for the past year now,
but the recommended development times are ridiculously short.
Having experimenting with HC-110 at 1:64 (12mins+)
but i haven't optimised the time yet.

 

[vader]

HC-110 gives good contrast but mixing it is a hassel... :cry: no blad arrhahaha..... :devil:

you should try T-max films with rodinal @ 1+30.....@18 degrees....

 

[hoppinghippo]

Have been using the Tri-X for the past year now,
but the recommended development times are ridiculously short.
Having experimenting with HC-110 at 1:64 (12mins+)
but i haven't optimised the time yet.

how's your result with 1:64 at this time? what's your agitation like?

 

[Bren]

Agitation for 5 sec every minute.
I think the contrast is a bit low, so i'm still
increasing the development times till i get
a good negative. Sort of going for the compensating
effect with low agitation and longer development times.

 

[forbytes]

remember... 20 degrees celcius... :lovegrin:

 

[Bren]

HC-110 gives good contrast but mixing it is a hassel... :cry: no blad arrhahaha..... :devil:

you should try T-max films with rodinal @ 1+30.....@18 degrees....

I use a syringe to measure, but since i bought a whole bottle, its gonna take forever to finish. What's the effect with the Tmax films? I find the Tmax emulsion kind of funny, and harder to print.

 

[Bren]

remember... 20 degrees celcius... :lovegrin:

Rite... took for granted.... :embrass:

 

[-7-]

......chiminology......I'm totally lost.... u guys sound so pro + expert to me ler.... I always tell myself: gotta pick up, gotta pick up... :cry: :cry: