Black n White Photo Lovers - Minoltian
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Hi The_Cheat... obviously I don't... I normally sent in all my B&W negatives to Ruby...with the contact print as the end product...
Till last week, I sent in a roll of my latest shot B&W Ilford to Kex for scanning...
guys, still wondering whether I should keep my digital forms in TIFF or JPEG ler... personnaly I would wanna have it done in TIFF file, any opinions??? :dunno:
Till last week, I sent in a roll of my latest shot B&W Ilford to Kex for scanning...
guys, still wondering whether I should keep my digital forms in TIFF or JPEG ler... personnaly I would wanna have it done in TIFF file, any opinions??? :dunno:
hoppinghippo
Senior Member
Bren said:
maybe try agitating every 2 mins?
I am suprised so many newbies into b&w photography! I though younger photograhers are all into digital. Afterall, its a click of a button to get b&w result.
Some pointers to start here about b&w photography. CN films that uses C41 to process is a different catagory of b&w photography. It works the same as color negatives; i.e the images produced on the negative consist of dyes. Whereas images from true b&w negatives are make up of silver compond. Therefore, the resulting print will also look different. CN film is less grainy but lack contrast and sharpness compared to normal b&w film.
b&w photography is about manipulating the original colours in the subject. You use different filters to to produce different results. Red to lighten red and darken blue sky, yellow to increse skin tone contrast, green to lighten leaves,.....
Other controls are in the processing. agitate more or increase temperature or increase concentration to increase contrast, and vis vesa.
any more questions? If you guys interested, let me know than we can meet up at the SEEDS?
Some pointers to start here about b&w photography. CN films that uses C41 to process is a different catagory of b&w photography. It works the same as color negatives; i.e the images produced on the negative consist of dyes. Whereas images from true b&w negatives are make up of silver compond. Therefore, the resulting print will also look different. CN film is less grainy but lack contrast and sharpness compared to normal b&w film.
b&w photography is about manipulating the original colours in the subject. You use different filters to to produce different results. Red to lighten red and darken blue sky, yellow to increse skin tone contrast, green to lighten leaves,.....
Other controls are in the processing. agitate more or increase temperature or increase concentration to increase contrast, and vis vesa.
any more questions? If you guys interested, let me know than we can meet up at the SEEDS?
The_Cheat said:Wah! Another pro ah!! Good good good...
Actually I need somebody to teach me how to process the b&w film. What's the basic setup, and how to do it. Got a roll of tri-x that have only 10 exposure to play around with, see...
:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: yeah!!!! let's learn together!!! :lovegrin:
Q1: Well, let's start with what are the basic apparatus / chemicals we need if we are processing a) True B&W Film b) CN B&W Film
Q2: Self reading book on B&W DIY recommendation... :sweat:
Cheers!!
Anyone has this experience that the b&w film processing done by Ruby seems to be too high in contrast (seems to me like over development)??
I seem to have this problem with Ruby all the time ... lose details and makes printing difficult. But it could be just me ...
End of the day, do the processing yourself!!
I seem to have this problem with Ruby all the time ... lose details and makes printing difficult. But it could be just me ...
End of the day, do the processing yourself!!
hoppinghippo
Senior Member
Jerry said:
Maybe it has to do with how you expose your film?
Jerry said:
haha......Do it yourself man.....
.......For ilford films check the barcode on the films and see if they flare out, if it is......then they overcook it. For kodak films.....it's the same......juzt check if the words on the film are flare.....It also depends on the exposure like hippo say. If you like to over-expose your films.....you gotta balance out the DEV time.....and temperature also matters too...I usually start at 18 degrees and I don't use stop baths. I only use water bath before I fix the films. This is to let the shadow details process more......
Jerry, if you tend to expose for the shadows.....then I'll suggest you process your films yourself. That guy doing your films maybe processing it longer, maybe temp higher, chemical use more then instructed.
All these factors add together will cook the negs man !!
Or if you want him to do it.....monitor his processing to see if it's consistence.....then you adjust your exposures accordingly.
All these factors add together will cook the negs man !!
Or if you want him to do it.....monitor his processing to see if it's consistence.....then you adjust your exposures accordingly.
To Vader,
Cool!!! by checking the barcode and we can know whether soembody has overcooked the negatives... I just learned a new thign today! Thanks! :lovegrin:
but, the definition of flare on the wording or the barcode...ermmm... :wink: i think mine should be the normal case one... flare as in the barcode or the wording goes out of shape? something like burn out? :sweat: Anyway, my instinct says that they are just right condition.
To Jerry,
Do not know whether this phenomena is camera dependency, as i do believe ones system metering (if aperture priority is used for your case) is not always 100% calibrated. This may be a relatively not so significant factor as compared to negative processing / exposure during the shot. anyway, my normal practice, when I load in Kodak TMAX negative in my Dynax5, -1 Stop is always my practice as previous rolls told me that my photos tend to white wash, and theyhad no priniting shop dependency found. nowadays I prefer Ilford and so far I only set -1 Stop for 3200 negative and it is not due to the overcooked issue, but to gain the mood of the photos...
Above opinions are solely my own experience (only based on <20 rolls of B&W films shot), better refer to those like Vader and the rest...
Cheers!!
Cool!!! by checking the barcode and we can know whether soembody has overcooked the negatives... I just learned a new thign today! Thanks! :lovegrin:
but, the definition of flare on the wording or the barcode...ermmm... :wink: i think mine should be the normal case one... flare as in the barcode or the wording goes out of shape? something like burn out? :sweat: Anyway, my instinct says that they are just right condition.
To Jerry,
Do not know whether this phenomena is camera dependency, as i do believe ones system metering (if aperture priority is used for your case) is not always 100% calibrated. This may be a relatively not so significant factor as compared to negative processing / exposure during the shot. anyway, my normal practice, when I load in Kodak TMAX negative in my Dynax5, -1 Stop is always my practice as previous rolls told me that my photos tend to white wash, and theyhad no priniting shop dependency found. nowadays I prefer Ilford and so far I only set -1 Stop for 3200 negative and it is not due to the overcooked issue, but to gain the mood of the photos...
Above opinions are solely my own experience (only based on <20 rolls of B&W films shot), better refer to those like Vader and the rest...
Cheers!!
-7- said:To Vader,
Cool!!! by checking the barcode and we can know whether soembody has overcooked the negatives... I just learned a new thign today! Thanks! :lovegrin:
but, the definition of flare on the wording or the barcode...ermmm... :wink: i think mine should be the normal case one... flare as in the barcode or the wording goes out of shape? something like burn out? :sweat: Anyway, my instinct says that they are just right condition.
To Jerry,
Do not know whether this phenomena is camera dependency, as i do believe ones system metering (if aperture priority is used for your case) is not always 100% calibrated. This may be a relatively not so significant factor as compared to negative processing / exposure during the shot. anyway, my normal practice, when I load in Kodak TMAX negative in my Dynax5, -1 Stop is always my practice as previous rolls told me that my photos tend to white wash, and theyhad no priniting shop dependency found. nowadays I prefer Ilford and so far I only set -1 Stop for 3200 negative and it is not due to the overcooked issue, but to gain the mood of the photos...
Above opinions are solely my own experience (only based on <20 rolls of B&W films shot), better refer to those like Vader and the rest...
Cheers!!
The words or barcode should be solid...you are right man, out of shape may be a better word to explain.
Ermmm, care to get your camera metering check?
-1 stop.......means that shadow details will be lost...hmmm.
My take on 3200 iso b/w is I usually rate it at 1600 iso but I process it at 3200 iso. I rate it at 1600 iso and process it at 1600 iso results in a very "thin" neg, can barely see details on the negs.
I always try to meter for the best average exposure...so that printing it will not be so hard.....
I find that RGB process B/W very contrast.....too dark negs...we call that "orr tao u" or "black soy sauce"
vader said:
Hi Vad,
I was told by the Ruby old guy (sorry, though I always chat to him, still can't remember his name...) once that Ilford Delta 3200 is actually designed based on ISO 1600 and he said it is not really 3200... so he told me that shot at 1600 is a wise choice. I did not know abt the thickness of the neg. fact. hmmm...2nd thing I learned today from u, what a fruitful day I have!! :rbounce:
No experience with Ruby for B&W yet, so far only slides with them. How's ur experience with Ruby then? :think:
To be frank, I do not think it's my Dynax5 metering prob. it only occurs on Kodak TMax films... not on Ilford so far.
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