Best practise or tips (from FX users)

[daredevil123]

turn on 51point AF with 3d tracking, turn off the function for af when you half press, switch the af mode selector to the middle option(single point with tracking), and switch the camera to 'C' on the AF mode switch. place the focus point on the subject you want, hold down the AF-on button and recompose, the af point will move to track the subject. its very accurate and fast cos you dont need to change the point. when you need single point af, just press the af-on button, let go, recompose. manual overide on AFS lenses will work fantastically without the camera trying to refocus every time you hit the shutter button.

also, consider getting the EC-S screen from focusingscreens.com, this way you can tell when the camera is screwing up the focus and you can corrected it with manual focus before you take the shot. it will also allow you to shoot your lenses wide open accurately. i use it with very good results on 35 1.4 AIs and 50 1.2 AIs and 135 f2 AIs

Ben, If you keep the AF mode switch on AF-C, and the AF switch (rear) on AF dynamic (middle).. but switch CSM a3 "Dynamic AF Area" from 3D to 51, you will find that the tracking is actually more accurate.. just that you do not see the AF point moving...

 

[brapodam]

Ben, If you keep the AF mode switch on AF-C, and the AF switch (rear) on AF dynamic (middle).. but switch CSM a3 "Dynamic AF Area" from 3D to 51, you will find that the tracking is actually more accurate.. just that you do not see the AF point moving...

If you just shift your camera to change your composition, does it actually track the subject or does it switch to focusing on the new object that has landed on the current AF point? What I'm worried about when doing this is over choosing 3D tracking, the camera will just focus on the new object in the current AF point. If indeed AF-C with 51 point AF and AF dynamic works like what 3D tracking is supposed to do, then I just learned something new!

 

[daredevil123]

If you just shift your camera to change your composition, does it actually track the subject or does it switch to focusing on the new object that has landed on the current AF point? What I'm worried about when doing this is over choosing 3D tracking, the camera will just focus on the new object in the current AF point. If indeed AF-C with 51 point AF and AF dynamic works like what 3D tracking is supposed to do, then I just learned something new!

If the shutter is held at half press, it will maintain focus on the initial subject most of the time. Try it with your cam. 3D tracking is more for a specific color object.

 

[brapodam]

If the shutter is held at half press, it will maintain focus on the initial subject most of the time. Try it with your cam. 3D tracking is more for a specific color object.

Last time I thought 3D tracking is for those people who are lazy to change focus point, just set to middle, focus and recompose. So that can be done without 3D tracking as well huh...hmm I shall try

 

[daredevil123]

Last time I thought 3D tracking is for those people who are lazy to change focus point, just set to middle, focus and recompose. So that can be done without 3D tracking as well huh...hmm I shall try

Like I said, 3D tracking uses 3D matrix metering to aid in tracking.. but if there are similarly colored and lighted subject in the scene, you will see the AF point start to jump around.

if you move to 51.. or the less number of AF point under the CSM a3 option... the selected AF point will always be the point of reference when half pressed and locked on, and the surrounding af points will be analyzed to see if the subject has shifted to another af point. so you still see that one AF point lighted.

If you move from dynamic-area mode to auto-area mode, the AI of the cam will try to determine the focus point... It is capable of giving more weight to faces...

 

[akagi07]

now I learnt new about these AF points and tracking methodologies.
So if not doing fast action shots, 11/21 points are better?

 

[ortega]

on a D800 use face detection in auto-area AF
with enough DOF to cover your intended area of focus

you must take some time to test and know the characteristics of your selected camera/lens combination

 

[lenslust]

now I learnt new about these AF points and tracking methodologies.
So if not doing fast action shots, 11/21 points are better?

Quite missing the point.

AF points are used for you to select where you want the focus to be active. The number of cross-hair sensors in the number of points selected also varies.

Number of AF points in use, doesn't mean better or worse, it depends on usage, using full 51 points also doesn't mean you're going to track a moving subject with it.

You can activate 11/21/51 and use only the center for focusing.

Birding, I prefer tracking with full 51 AF points on continuous AF. Portraits, I only activate 11 single AF. Landscapes also 11, single AF.

 

[Ferderico]

Did I just read that you shoot table shots at F8 + flash? Geeez. Are u shooting table shots with a 300mm?

 

[cutecdo]

Did I just read that you shoot table shots at F8 + flash? Geeez. Are u shooting table shots with a 300mm?

What's wrong with f8 + flash for table shots? :dunno:

 

[akagi07]

ok alright.
DoF + tracking is something OT
guess time to close this thread since more like Ben and DareDevil's tips are closer to what I'm looking at

thanks guys

 

[Cowseye]

What's wrong with f8 + flash for table shots? :dunno:

It will affect the total exposure if u are not careful with distance. Usually F/5.6 would suffice.

 

[bomby929]

What's wrong with f8 + flash for table shots? :dunno:

IMO.. it also depends on the focal length you shoot the scene with. If wide enough angle.. F4-5.6 should be enough.. as the DoF is near 3meters already. Nothing wrong with f8.. but at f8.. you need to push the ISO higher or the flash need to work harder. Also.. background might not be bright enough..

 

[lenslust]

IMO.. it also depends on the focal length you shoot the scene with. If wide enough angle.. F4-5.6 should be enough.. as the DoF is near 3meters already. Nothing wrong with f8.. but at f8.. you need to push the ISO higher or the flash need to work harder. Also.. background might not be bright enough..

Given the advancement in hi ISO, 3200-6400 is pretty common for shots.

 

[bomby929]

Given the advancement in hi ISO, 3200-6400 is pretty common for shots.

True.. but if can get the shot at a lower f.stop.. why need to go f8? IMO like to keep ISO as low as possible to what I need to take.. and not bum up ISO because it can.