DD123 can advice me on how do you see those lines? I mean with all the construction going on. There are so many lines here and there. Isn't it very messy as to which one should be the right one to follow or use as a guide?
Another thing for me I notice was the spotlight but you mention you decrease the EV. Is there other way to reduce the glare other then EV in this case? :think:
You have to put yourself in the shoes of the viewer. What would attract your attention at first glance. how will elements in the picture "move" that attention. Any thing can be a line, as long as it has some dominance in the audience's attention. A road, a path, patterns, a bridge, a river, even a string of clouds.
A lot of these things will come to you as you learn to stop and think more before you hit that shutter. Ask yourself:
What do you want the point(s) of interest (POI) to be?
How would elements in a frame help to accentuate that POI?
Are any elements unnecessary (being an extra)?
Are any elements forming a distraction that pulls attention away from your POI?
Hitting the shutter everyone can do. The key to great photos, and art, is to be able to capture exactly what you want the viewer to see. That is the x-factor that separates a snapshot from a piece of photographic work.
As for the spotlights. What I was avoiding, is to blow the spotlights and the lighted areas. By keeping it unblown, I can more leeway to work with the RAW picture and do my adjustments. ZCA mentioned the black card technique. For black card technique to work well, you need to at least have
1. a considerably long exposure.
2. a clear large area where you can use the black card to cover.
Black card users usually will try to drag out the shutter speed, so they have enough time to play with having the black card over the part of lens and another part of the exposure where the full frame is allowed to expose. Clear horizons works the best and when using the black card, you need to shake it so you sort of created a soft edge feel. GND can also achieve the effect but it constantly on, and is dependent on the number of stops the GND blocks out. Black card is up to you, how big a part of the entire exposure time you cover (and shake).
In this case, it will be very hard to use a black card. Simply because the spot you want to balance out (the spot lights) is too small and precise.
BTW, even as I say these, I am no expert. I am not there yet. In fact I am still very very far away from being an expert. I am still striving to get there...