Are those fungus by any chance?


spree86 said:
It kills the fungus but it doesn't remove them. Also, there might be fungus on the inside of the barrel as well, you can't really kill off all of them.

Putting in the sun is the next best thing to a dry cab.

No other better way of dealing of fungus.

Dry cab will also not kill all fungus. Fungus spores are everywhere in high humid air
 

Putting in the sun is the next best thing to a dry cab.

No other better way of dealing of fungus.

Dry cab will also not kill all fungus. Fungus spores are everywhere in high humid air

Yes, there is a better way of dealing with fungus, that is to get it professionally cleaned. Putting the lens in sunlight might kill the fungus on the lens but the remnants are still left behind.
 

good to hear from CSC that it is not fungus on TS's lens,

just a few things to take note,

fungus spores is airborne and in the air that you and I breathing now, so is already on everyone lenses now, it only waiting for the right condition to grow.

weather seal is not air tight, as long air can go in, fungus spores can go in as well.



and dry cabinet is not air tight, it won't kill or remove fungus, it only slow down the growing process, make it very hard to grow. So just make full use of your lenses while they are still good.
 

There is a device thar makes ozone. Can put it in drycab. Anyone know where can one purchase that?
 

There is a device thar makes ozone. Can put it in drycab. Anyone know where can one purchase that?

It's called an ionizer. Won't help.
 

Why would putting a fungus affected lens in the dry cab affect other non-infected lenses? Fungus need the humid condition to grow. If the dry cab is working well, the fungus cannot thrive.... won't kill it either...just inhibited.

The theory of putting in the sun is a myth. Basically it's the UV that kill the fungus, not infrared or heat. On the contrary, it may even encourage the growth of the fungus by giving it heat and humidity under the sun.

How abt using a lens with some fungus in it? Would it thus make the camera body a 'spores carrier? Fungus pores are everywhere in a tropic environment, naked to human eyes. I have heard of some dealers shop in air-conditioning environment also catch fungus.

Some fungus can also find it's way into sealed lens elements that cannot be cleaned or reached....as gd as stage 4 cancer.

Maybe one day we can user lasers to kill it....??? Or put UV light in the dry cab???

2-cents...
 

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Hinata76 said:
hmm...just by putting in the sun to kill the fungus..does it really work?

how?

open lens cap and just let it stand in the sun?

back cap also?

How abt suntan lotion too??? Hehehe...
 

Maybe one day we can user lasers to kill it....??? Or put UV light in the dry cab???
Could be an idea.. but you will need those lights as used in medical / laboratory equipment. The fancy UV light that some people put under the car won't help much.
 

The theory of putting in the sun is a myth. Basically it's the UV that kill the fungus, not infrared or heat.

Ah boss... Sunlight is a massive source of UV, even on a cloudy day. It's not just IR...
 

Rashkae said:
Ah boss... Sunlight is a massive source of UV, even on a cloudy day. It's not just IR...

Yes boss...uv a/b etc. But there has been report that it didn't work n it got worse...fungus spread further. Guess it may help but as a treatment to put it under deliberate sunning is not what I will do. ;)
 

ataraxist said:
The theory of putting in the sun is a myth. Basically it's the UV that kill the fungus, not infrared or heat. On the contrary, it may even encourage the growth of the fungus by giving it heat and humidity under the sun.

2-cents...

U never go to school arh?
 

Yes boss...uv a/b etc. But there has been report that it didn't work n it got worse...fungus spread further. Guess it may help but as a treatment to put it under deliberate sunning is not what I will do. ;)

I tested it on an old nikkor macro (cheap cheap, mushroom farm) and there was a noticeable improvement. Of course, to totally get rid of even the "dead" webs you need proper cleaning, but I would recommend regular sunning for your lenses... In other words, go out and shoot! :)
 

ataraxist said:
Yes boss...uv a/b etc. But there has been report that it didn't work n it got worse...fungus spread further. Guess it may help but as a treatment to put it under deliberate sunning is not what I will do. ;)

Think u got the facts all wrong.....
 

donut88 said:
Think u got the facts all wrong.....

I merely says there r different results for different pple. Conflicting reports. I didn't vouch it was facts. If it works for u gd. :)

Yes I regretted not attending the same school as u. :p
 

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Rashkae said:
I tested it on an old nikkor macro (cheap cheap, mushroom farm) and there was a noticeable improvement. Of course, to totally get rid of even the "dead" webs you need proper cleaning, but I would recommend regular sunning for your lenses... In other words, go out and shoot! :)

Go out n shoot is definitely a must. I agree totally. That's why lenses left in the dealers air con shelf, unused for a long time can get infected.
 

Octarine said:
Could be an idea.. but you will need those lights as used in medical / laboratory equipment. The fancy UV light that some people put under the car won't help much.

I wouldn't mind trying this on one of my infected lens....where to buy such equipment? Probably has to experiment it in the dry cab condition.

Those webs eaten into the lens coating, can't do anything to it already. At least I might rid all the remaining dormant spores.
 

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Someone posted this....interesting....


I actually got the Ultraviolet imaging department at local university to fire a 266 nm 1Kw laser through Takumar 50mm f/1.4 lens that had a bad case of fungus and the dreaded yellowing (this one was really bad) and in 0.8 seconds it was crystal clear and the fungus flaked off when I disassembled it.

This was an experiment I have wanted to do for some time, and I know quite a few people at the science department at Adelaide University who were also interested in this particular problem. the takumar lens was given to me because of the damage from the yellowing and the fungus.

The YAG laser was pulsed and had it's power output reduced. Ordinarily solid state YAG lasers in the Kilowatt energy class are only capable of exposing a target for only a few nanoseconds, but at a reduced power level the laser was able to sustain a relatively longer exposure equivalent to a continuous exposure of 750w for 0.8th of a second. This length of time was needed due to the high absorption of UV light by the glass in the lens. The absorption of the energetic UV photons increased the temperature within the lens further aiding the elimination of the fungus.

Damage to DNA occurs in the presence of UV light in the 254~266nm range, several enzymes become denatured and in the presence of 186nm UV light DNA is able to be effectively destroyed. But unfortunately to use 186nm UV would have been impractical because the lens would have to have been stripped down and placed in hard vacuum due to the fact that air becomes opaque those wavelengths.

From PentaxForums.com: http://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/...ion/143593-how-does-happen.html#ixzz1ltxP1DTv
 

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Someone posted this....interesting....


I actually got the Ultraviolet imaging department at local university to fire a 266 nm 1Kw laser through Takumar 50mm f/1.4 lens that had a bad case of fungus and the dreaded yellowing (this one was really bad) and in 0.8 seconds it was crystal clear and the fungus flaked off when I disassembled it.

This was an experiment I have wanted to do for some time, and I know quite a few people at the science department at Adelaide University who were also interested in this particular problem. the takumar lens was given to me because of the damage from the yellowing and the fungus.

The YAG laser was pulsed and had it's power output reduced. Ordinarily solid state YAG lasers in the Kilowatt energy class are only capable of exposing a target for only a few nanoseconds, but at a reduced power level the laser was able to sustain a relatively longer exposure equivalent to a continuous exposure of 750w for 0.8th of a second. This length of time was needed due to the high absorption of UV light by the glass in the lens. The absorption of the energetic UV photons increased the temperature within the lens further aiding the elimination of the fungus.

Damage to DNA occurs in the presence of UV light in the 254~266nm range, several enzymes become denatured and in the presence of 186nm UV light DNA is able to be effectively destroyed. But unfortunately to use 186nm UV would have been impractical because the lens would have to have been stripped down and placed in hard vacuum due to the fact that air becomes opaque those wavelengths.

From PentaxForums.com: How does this happen? - PentaxForums.com

Wah lau, it must cost A LOT to get the lens blasted by laser commercially, rather just go out to shoot or buy a new lens :)
 

One radical idea is to disassemble the lenses and have it treated under uv-c light wand that is available easily.

However for elements that are sealed, we r not sure if it will effective or how long it will be needed under uv-c treatment.

Wondering if service centers employ such method or not?

2 cents