AF-S NIKKOR 24-70mm f/2.8E ED VR - OFFICIAL THREAD


Very simple. Just leave the lens hood permanently in the forward position. The barrel problem is caused by a bushing (or two) getting deformed. This bushing is like a plastic wheel that slides along a diagonal slot when you zoom in and out. When you reverse the hood, with camera attached and leave the entire setup facing down in a bag or on a surface, the entire inner barrel will be bearing the weight of the entire setup. over time, it will stress the bushing too much and will cause it to be deformed causing the stiffness. Once it deforms enough or breaks, the lens barrel will also move at a different angle, causing it to rub or get stuck against the outer barrel (since the clearance is less than 1mm). The bushing is part of the inner barrel assembly. Once disassembled, without the proper equipment and expertise, it is almost impossible to to be assembled with the same precise optical tuning it once had. IIRC, only a few service centers in the world has the equipment to perform this calibration, and SG service center apparently does not have it. IIRC El Segundo NSC in California USA has it, thus is able to perform the repair. But I heard it is not cheap as well, if the lens is out of warranty.

Since the hood is mounted on the outer barrel, leaving it permanently on facing forward, will protect the inner barrel from sustaining any weight, saving your bushing from the extra load and stress. One thing I noticed is that the 24-70 with the hood permanently attached is the same length as the 70-200 with hood reversed. So when I swap lenses, I simply leave the 24-70 in the bag slot that the 70-200 vacated. Perfect fit.

BTW, Canon 24-70 mk1 also suffers from the same issue if you do not already know. Lensrental did a write-up on this a while back, complete with pictures and detailed explanation... but somehow it got deleted after a short while....


That is exactly what I do as well. Avoid resting the lens on the internal barrier, which means do not place it front element down, if done so the thin plastic of the bushing is taking the weight of all the glass, for a while its fine, but if this is the way the lens is stored most of the time, the problem may come after a few years.
 

Thanks to DareDevil for sharing this useful info. May I ask will this issue happens to other Nikkor lenses (fixed and zoom) when we leave the entire set up (camera with the lens attached) face down be it inside the camera bag or any hard surface?
 

Very simple. Just leave the lens hood permanently in the forward position. The barrel problem is caused by a bushing (or two) getting deformed. This bushing is like a plastic wheel that slides along a diagonal slot when you zoom in and out. When you reverse the hood, with camera attached and leave the entire setup facing down in a bag or on a surface, the entire inner barrel will be bearing the weight of the entire setup. over time, it will stress the bushing too much and will cause it to be deformed causing the stiffness. Once it deforms enough or breaks, the lens barrel will also move at a different angle, causing it to rub or get stuck against the outer barrel (since the clearance is less than 1mm). The bushing is part of the inner barrel assembly. Once disassembled, without the proper equipment and expertise, it is almost impossible to to be assembled with the same precise optical tuning it once had. IIRC, only a few service centers in the world has the equipment to perform this calibration, and SG service center apparently does not have it. IIRC El Segundo NSC in California USA has it, thus is able to perform the repair. But I heard it is not cheap as well, if the lens is out of warranty.

Since the hood is mounted on the outer barrel, leaving it permanently on facing forward, will protect the inner barrel from sustaining any weight, saving your bushing from the extra load and stress. One thing I noticed is that the 24-70 with the hood permanently attached is the same length as the 70-200 with hood reversed. So when I swap lenses, I simply leave the 24-70 in the bag slot that the 70-200 vacated. Perfect fit.

BTW, Canon 24-70 mk1 also suffers from the same issue if you do not already know. Lensrental did a write-up on this a while back, complete with pictures and detailed explanation... but somehow it got deleted after a short while....

thx for sharing alot..
 

Thanks to DareDevil for sharing this useful info. May I ask will this issue happens to other Nikkor lenses (fixed and zoom) when we leave the entire set up (camera with the lens attached) face down be it inside the camera bag or any hard surface?

Not sure about that, since I have not heard of any other lenses with this problem. One thing to note is that the 24-70 is a very very heavy piece of glass. And with the inner barrel moving in and out, the weight of that lens together with the camera body (users of this lens tend to have heavier bodies) may be why this happens a lot more than any other lenses.

I hope the problem is now fixed with the new 24-70 VR. hopefully they designed the zoom mechanism better and stronger. If so, I can finally reverse my hood.
 

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NSC do not service the barrel issue of the 24-70mm. If you send it for repairing, they simply replace it. I've got one from a bro through the BNS in a new condition about 2 years ago. He showed me the receipt with S/N of the 'old / problem' lens, and the new S/N of the replaced lens. His shared with me his experience of this lens that created problem, and advised exactly as DD123. Till now, still smooth operation. BTW, the 'repairing' cost was $900.

Maybe if you have problem with the old lens, you can try if they can trade in with the new one.:D
 

I think that is their base price. I send my in for repair after it was dropped. It was still working but it had dents and the zooming was sticky. So they told me they will "repair" by changing the lens and it cost me $900. I think that is their base price I suspect. No box or anything but I think it is a good price for a new lens for $900. I have again damaged the lens and the zoom have failed so I am now thinking to send it to repair for $900 and get a new lens and sell it for a little more and then upgrade to the new VR F2.8E version :)
 

I think that is their base price. I send my in for repair after it was dropped. It was still working but it had dents and the zooming was sticky. So they told me they will "repair" by changing the lens and it cost me $900. I think that is their base price I suspect. No box or anything but I think it is a good price for a new lens for $900. I have again damaged the lens and the zoom have failed so I am now thinking to send it to repair for $900 and get a new lens and sell it for a little more and then upgrade to the new VR F2.8E version :)

We start the bids at $901- ( A little more... ) ;0 ;)
 

US$2,396.95 from B&H but not sure of the launch date.
 

TKK...... heheh

I think I can still get give or take around $1600 or a little more given it will be basically brand new. The new one will be a higher over the non VR which I think the price will still be about the same or a tad lower but still above $2000.
 

Thanks to DareDevil for sharing this useful info. May I ask will this issue happens to other Nikkor lenses (fixed and zoom) when we leave the entire set up (camera with the lens attached) face down be it inside the camera bag or any hard surface?


For zooms only, fix lens dont have a moving internal barrier. In general, the heavy zooms I avoid placing front elements down, another heavy zoom I have is 28-300, which I apply the same prevention principle. Actually in a camera bag it is fine due to the cushioning, it is from long term drybox storage with the front element consistently down that breaks down the bushing torque.
 

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For zooms only, fix lens dont have a moving internal barrier. In general, the heavy zooms I avoid placing front elements down, another heavy zoom I have is 28-300, which I apply the same prevention principle. Actually in a camera bag it is fine due to the cushioning, it is from long term drybox storage with the front element consistently down that breaks down the bushing torque.

Bag also an issue. It is not an issue if the slot is a lot deeper than the lens, so the lens is "hanging" and the front of the lens does not touch the bottom of the bag. But more than often, it does, simply because the 24-70 is longer than many lenses out there. And it is the most used lens, so it is usually mounted on the camera. plus when in a bag, we are moving around, so the movement creates more stress also. So weight of lens + camera + grip + strap + whatever, all stressing on those 2 plastic rings...
 

Usually when slot (camera with lens mounted) into the camera bag, the front of the lens will rest on the bottom of the bag. I tried cutting a foam (longer than my 24-120 lens) n placed on the camera grip side to help give some support.
I didnt cut one for the other side of the camera. The camera's surface area there is a bit less for it to rest on.
 

To solve the issue of the camera bag, I always use a backpack, and the body with this lens is resting at the bottom. This can be done also for bigger sling bag.
 

Compare size :

$Nikon-24-120mm-f4G-ED-VR-vs.-24-70mm-f2.8E-ED-VR-lens.jpg

Compare Size :

$Nikon-24-120mm-f4G-ED-VR-vs.-24-70mm-f2.8E-ED-VR-lens-2.jpg
 

$Nikon-24-120mm-f4-vs.-24-70mm-f2.8E-lens.jpg

How does it compare?
 

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