Thank you all for your responses!
Yes sorry I didn't mean to ask which was the best brand but just wanted to gather opinion on what the photographers here are using. I shoot mostly portraits, outdoor portraits and environmental street shots, as I do not have access to a studio. I have developed a liking to taking nights shots as well. I have played around with a 35mm, 50mm and 85mm prime lens and I understand some cameras take better shots in low-light conditions or have more lens options for certain genre of photography?
I've been looking to get a mirrorless camera for a while, I think not every system has the same range of prime lenses and portrait lenses (if there even is such a term/thing) so I wanted to ask for opinions here, like what do portrait photographers here prefer to use and why, so that I can make a more informed decision among the cameras and lenses available.
Please excuse my ignorance as I am pretty new to the world and gadgets of photography so correct me if I'm wrong!
Thanks for your input and help!
Hi, you are ignorant only because you have yet to know. Wrong sounds negative, I would prefer inexperienced.Everyone has to start from somewhere right?
This is going to be technical as there is no other way to explain the things you need to know but I'll make it simple.So you want to shoot portraits which means you must know the hardware and lighting methods because ultimately this will have a large influence on the output or look of the photo if in jpeg output or format.
As portrait photography in which the subject/human is largely static/stationary unless they are performing an action eg. jumping,running or dancing all cameras are viable or suitable.Most people will care about the
colours and contrast of the jpeg output but the size of the image sensor whether small or big also have an influence namely the depth of field in front and back of the subject.In simple terms it's the isolation of the subject from the background that allows the human eye to gaze or concentrate on the face or body of the person without the distraction of other details in the photo unless it adds to it.Humans are narcissistic..haha.In otherwords vain.It's how to take advantage and use of the environment.
Which camera?
You have shortlisted fuji..XT2 is top of the line model and XT20 entry level.
Of course one is more expensive than the other.It's claim to fame is the colour rendering in other words it's image processor is tweaked and can also simulate the colour and look of Fuji's popular film medium products of the film camera era. Digital have it's own look whether you like it or not! Young people like Fuji as you don't have to use photo editing to get the look.So OOC (out of camera) it's convenient. Lenses are not cheap though.
Sony A6300: Just another mirrorless model superceded by A6500 a low light
capable and 4K video model and pricey.
The above models have APSC sensors and you played with Nikon 610 which is a full frame 35mm film equivalent. Have you noticed the difference in output between them? It may be subtle but there is a difference.
If I really have the budget,for portrait shoot and if it was me I would
go straight to a full frame camera.Most people will play with the various formats and ultimately end up full frame.Why not save time and money?
The lens:
In formal portrait photography there are technical reasons to use a certain focal length because of lens distortion.A lens simply renders or form an image onto a flat sensor/surface but because of physics or science of optics (lens)the curvature of lens elements in a given lens of focal length does not form an image which is proportional as in the real object/subject. An example is if you use phone camera and take a selfie you can see the nose and eyes are distorted.So the guideline is:
35mm: Because of wider angle of view it's used for environmental portraits,
eg. an artist in his studio or a craftmans in his workshop,a CEO in his office or factory in otherwords the background details reveals something more about the person.
50mm: the same angle of view as the human eye so gives it a natural perspective and for full length, 3/4 to half body shots. There will be distortion if you shoot closer like a head and shoulder shot.
85mm: A focal length that allows subject to be photographed from a further distance so that gives a feeling of comfort and personal space which the subject/human will not feel self conscious and more likely to give a natural expression of the face,eyes and body.Also give the least distortion.
Longer focal lengths give better subject isolation and you can even use a supertelephoto lens if that's your vision.
Ultra wide angle lens: Subject will mostly be in the center of frame for minimum distortion, more environment!
A favourite all-in one lens is the 70-200mm F2.8 which is the workhorse of wedding and portrait shooters.
On lens' sharpness, it's not neccessary because you only need sharp enough
as there is also a technical reason...because digital lens and sensor has high resolution showing the full glory of a women's time ravaged face is simply cruel however photo editing can do wonders to make women happy.
That's why you seldom see head shots in the portrait gallery here! Again technical expertise.The use of light modifiers help here.
As an aside, larger image sensors always look sharper! It's the physics.
Lighting: It's either natural available/existing light mostly outdoors or indoors or full controlled studio lighting.Of course you can supplement with artificial or flash lighting as fill light for natural lighting.Basically you need to be able to visualise and see the direction of light as the sun is the only light source.Lighting is a subject in itself so much to learn. So is exposure and metering both are crucial to successful photos.
Clothing/colour coordination and makeup and hair style if for females, depending on body types and skin colour, this will affect the subjects self confidence and self esteem that can prevent or thwart a successful shoot. Don't forget the location!
Oh a forgoten but also crucial element is the rapport between photographer and subject. The friendliness, trust and professional conduct which will result in subject being/looking natural as opposed to awkward or nervous. A preshoot meeting to gage and let subject and photographer get to know each other.These are some of the things to think about.
Posing, this largely stumps most photographers...the trick is to pose subject so as to not look posed, an art in itself! There is also corrective posing to minimise or hide subject's physical imperfections by using subject's body parts like hair,arms,hands,legs,objects to cover or block from camera view. The last trick is selective lighting to show or not show like in outdoors to use the shade.
Hope this helps.
Ps. A good book to read is Neil Van Niekerk's Direction and quality of light. You can also visit his website for more tips.
https://neilvn.com/tangents/photography-book-direction-quality-of-light/
By the way most people here have at least 2 or more cameras...like me plus an assortment of
