450D 18-55mm Kit lens - soft pictures?

[Doughnuts]

Looked into your multiply. this one seemed to be due to handshake and looks like u are focusing on the left bottle.

consider buying a flash first before buying another lens, it will help the handshake business that means sharper pics. he colours after flash is rich and more vibrant. For these shots with flash, you can reduce flash intensity, use iso 100 and use much faster shutter.

http://media.the-digital-picture.com/Owners-Manuals/Canon-Speedlite-430ex-Flash-Manual.pdf

You can adjust the flash output as easily as normal exposure compensation. Flash exposure compensation can be set up to ±3 stops in 1/3-stop increments. (If the camera’s exposure compensation is set in 1/2-stop increments, flash exposure compensation is set in 1/2-stop
increments.)

Some more excerpts.

For the night shots shown later in the threads, you need to first focus on the main object reduce f stop to as low as your lens will go, and increase the exposure time. for the 18-55mm, i think the f stop is 3.5? increase the exposure to anywhere between 60 - 240secs. Nighttime landscape images are typically shot with long duration shutter speeds and the results are unpredictable. Shooting in RAW format offers you the ability to push shots a stop in either direction depending on your needs.

Keep in mind that each f-stop increment upward doubles your shutter speed. For example, if the settings for a properly exposed image are f-4 at 120-seconds, then the shutter speed would jump to around 240-seconds if you bumped your f-stop up to f-5.6. This can add up real quick!

Long exposures can result in more digital noise
Always shoot at the lowest ISO possible for your camera. For example with my Canon I shoot at 100 ISO. Even after shooting at a low ISO, you may find that there is a bit more digital noise in your nighttime images as a result of the longer shutter speeds. To resolve this problem I typically run the noise reduction filter later in Photoshop and then paint out areas of the image that I do not want it to affect. Noise Ninja is another effective noise reduction tool.

 

[Shah]

hey bro....come we change cam! my kit lens sharp sharp one!

jk:lovegrin:

urs..mai la...i dun need ur lens...need ur guidance since around me u are the most pro one..haha

 

[Shah]

I don't understand why you'd want to torture yourself with Manual Focus and run the high risk of getting focus error (then blaming your lens for soft pics).

Autofocus is there to improve your chances of accurate focus, and minimise the user error with regards to focus, so use it.



Pardon me for saying this, but it is evident from your postings that there is still a lot that you are unaware of, and maybe you should not think of the course being below you.

Bro, most of the time i use auto for focus but for the temple ones it was too dark so i used manual

And as for the course i was told that it was jus covers the basics like wad is iso, wad is apperture and all..dats y i didnt attend this and wanted to attend another course but missed its intake...

I`m not blaming my lens..i was jus asking if the lens gives soft images or is my technique wrong...i will not know that my technique is wrong until someone points it out to me...i do read up on my own and everything but i need another human to correct me..lol

 

[Shah]

consider buying a flash first before buying another lens, it will help the handshake business that means sharper pics. he colours after flash is rich and more vibrant. For these shots with flash, you can reduce flash intensity, use iso 100 and use much faster shutter.

http://media.the-digital-picture.com/Owners-Manuals/Canon-Speedlite-430ex-Flash-Manual.pdf

You can adjust the flash output as easily as normal exposure compensation. Flash exposure compensation can be set up to ±3 stops in 1/3-stop increments. (If the camera’s exposure compensation is set in 1/2-stop increments, flash exposure compensation is set in 1/2-stop
increments.)

Some more excerpts.

For the night shots shown later in the threads, you need to first focus on the main object reduce f stop to as low as your lens will go, and increase the exposure time. for the 18-55mm, i think the f stop is 3.5? increase the exposure to anywhere between 60 - 240secs. Nighttime landscape images are typically shot with long duration shutter speeds and the results are unpredictable. Shooting in RAW format offers you the ability to push shots a stop in either direction depending on your needs.

Keep in mind that each f-stop increment upward doubles your shutter speed. For example, if the settings for a properly exposed image are f-4 at 120-seconds, then the shutter speed would jump to around 240-seconds if you bumped your f-stop up to f-5.6. This can add up real quick!

Long exposures can result in more digital noise
Always shoot at the lowest ISO possible for your camera. For example with my Canon I shoot at 100 ISO. Even after shooting at a low ISO, you may find that there is a bit more digital noise in your nighttime images as a result of the longer shutter speeds. To resolve this problem I typically run the noise reduction filter later in Photoshop and then paint out areas of the image that I do not want it to affect. Noise Ninja is another effective noise reduction tool.

woo..thanx for the great tip...will try it out and repost the pics..

I was deciding between getting a flash first or another wider lens....mayb shld borrow a flash and try out the flash first as u recommended...*looks at dxsibo*

 

[varf]

I`m not blaming my lens..i was jus asking if the lens gives soft images or is my technique wrong...i will not know that my technique is wrong until someone points it out to me...i do read up on my own and everything but i need another human to correct me..lol

there's an easy way to find out.

find a (preferably stationary and nearby) object in a dimly-lit environment where you can use your flash.

first, take a picture using your regular method with the subject centered, ƒ/8 if you like, no flash, using MF/tripod/whichever. (ambient lighting only)

second, in Manual mode, set to the same f-stop, set shutter speed to 1/200, pop up your on-camera flash, use AF with just the centre AF-point active and take the same subject. (flash as primary light source)

then compare the sharpness of the two shots.

 

[Shah]

okie..but usually i take in manual mode..so how shld i compare?..jus take one in manual and another in auto?

i took some photos of a gathering at my hse ytd and i thik it looked pretty sharp..haf to go back and review the pictures again later...will post up pics later aft work..

 

[varf]

okie..but usually i take in manual mode..so how shld i compare?..jus take one in manual and another in auto?

i took some photos of a gathering at my hse ytd and i thik it looked pretty sharp..haf to go back and review the pictures again later...will post up pics later aft work..

manual mode is fine, just use a slow shutter speed for the first shot. you basically want to find out whether the problem is camera shake, mis-focusing, or the lens itself not being up to scratch.

using flash + AF with 1/200s shutter speed in a dimly lit environment should eliminate camera shake and focusing problems completely - the camera should strobe the flash to assist with autofocus. so if the with-flash shot is still not sharp, you probably have an issue with the lens. take a few to make sure, of course.

 

[samchong]

hey bro....come we change cam! my kit lens sharp sharp one!

jk:lovegrin:

Hi all don't worry about the kit len, today i then discover this cheap len is " MADE IN JAPAN":bsmilie:In my mind I taugh this is a Malaysia made len ?:nono:

 

[pixie]

So our lens is Nihonjin....=X

 

[gman23xx]

Hi all don't worry about the kit len, today i then discover this cheap len is " MADE IN JAPAN":bsmilie:In my mind I taugh this is a Malaysia made len ?:nono:

Took sometime, for you guys to realize this. Haha. Do you know that our old 400D counterparts, some had malaysia made kit-lenses. So we should be happy with what we've got and the kit lens is a good lens. Have fun shooting guys. Build up on the skills.



GMAN

 

[Shah]

took some pics as directed by bro varf

f8
30sec exposure
used iso 400 to get the optimal exposure reading

f8
30sec(max) exposure
iso200

f8
1/200
iso200

All shots taken with auto-focus with the middle focusing point

I cant decide if the pics are sharp or not...i think its not too sharp but still much better then the temple ones...

The steps are almost identical as what i used for the temple pics only difference is that i zoomed-in, focus and zoomed out to how i want it to be...
This probably could be the move which killed the pictures and the vibrations from the people walking around didnt help either..
I forgot to add it was kinda smoky too..

Anyway, this is the first time i have issues with soft pictures...previously i was using a canon 350D to photograph a wedding and most of the pics came out fine...My first time using a DSLR
http://socks.multiply.com/photos/album/45/Hawa_Wedding#

http://socks.multiply.com/photos/album/48/Solemnisation

 

[gman23xx]

took some pics as directed by bro varf

f8
30sec exposure
used iso 400 to get the optimal exposure reading

f8
30sec(max) exposure
iso200

f8
1/200
iso200

All shots taken with auto-focus with the middle focusing point

I cant decide if the pics are sharp or not...i think its not too sharp but still much better then the temple ones...

The steps are almost identical as what i used for the temple pics only difference is that i zoomed-in, focus and zoomed out to how i want it to be...
This probably could be the move which killed the pictures and the vibrations from the people walking around didnt help either..
I forgot to add it was kinda smoky too..

Anyway, this is the first time i have issues with soft pictures...previously i was using a canon 350D to photograph a wedding and most of the pics came out fine...My first time using a DSLR
http://socks.multiply.com/photos/album/45/Hawa_Wedding#

http://socks.multiply.com/photos/album/48/Solemnisation

Hi Shah,


I believe you are using a canon 450D with a 18-55mm I.S lens? Check if your I.S is turned on. Do note if you are doing hand held shots, you need to have a firm grip and minimum shake to get a sharp picture. If you are on a tripod, turn off the I.S and try again. From what i've seen on your pictures, it seems more due to minor handshake that cause the picture not to be so sharp. Happened to me when i was using a DSLR for the first time. Not to worry, work on the skills, you are getting nearer.


Take care. All the best.


GMAN

 

[Shah]

thanx for your support bro..

Yeah, the IS is on...i think my hanf shake until jialat...hahaa..mus train up..mayb the camera abit too light?..my cousin`s nikon is heavy and shiok to hold....

 

[FVTPL]

shah: U mean u took the fotos at 30sec exposure using hand held? WOW!

 

[varf]

All shots taken with auto-focus with the middle focusing point

I cant decide if the pics are sharp or not...i think its not too sharp but still much better then the temple ones...

at this image size, sharpness looks decent, no visible shake on the long exposure either. doesn't seem like a major problem with the lens to me.

The steps are almost identical as what i used for the temple pics only difference is that i zoomed-in, focus and zoomed out to how i want it to be...

this only works if your lens is parfocal - ie. the focus stays the same as you zoom. in the case of the kit lens it is most definitely varifocal, and therefore zoom-in-focus-zoom-out will almost always guarantee an out-of-focus shot.

there is a widely-referenced list of parfocal Canon lenses (note: may be outdated), but i've seen complaints about supposedly-parfocal lenses not being perfectly parfocal, and have had similar experiences with the EF 17-40mm ƒ/4L.

bottom line is, always check your focus when changing zoom magnification.

 

[billycadiz]

yes, find first the limits of the kit lens, this one taken with it also.

and also don't hammer the shutter button, press it gently.....

 

[Shah]

shah: U mean u took the fotos at 30sec exposure using hand held? WOW!

haha..no la..anything more then 1/10 i will need a tripod or steady surface le.....

 

[Shah]

at this image size, sharpness looks decent, no visible shake on the long exposure either. doesn't seem like a major problem with the lens to me.




this only works if your lens is parfocal - ie. the focus stays the same as you zoom. in the case of the kit lens it is most definitely varifocal, and therefore zoom-in-focus-zoom-out will almost always guarantee an out-of-focus shot.

there is a widely-referenced list of parfocal Canon lenses (note: may be outdated), but i've seen complaints about supposedly-parfocal lenses not being perfectly parfocal, and have had similar experiences with the EF 17-40mm ƒ/4L.

bottom line is, always check your focus when changing zoom magnification.

icic..didnt know about such lenses...
nah, i`ll stick to my lens and learn the proper way of focusing...haha...thanx for ur valuable information bro...

 

[Shah]

yes, find first the limits of the kit lens, this one taken with it also.

and also don't hammer the shutter button, press it gently.....

nice pic...will try out the techniques when i bring my camera to work tml....will post it up once i haf taken the pic...

 

[samchong]

Yeap...the lens has been doing great for me too...except that its nt wide enuff...

As for the focus, mine is on auto select...mayb i should try the centre one...

So our lens is Nihonjin....=X

You can see this at the end of the len.You must master the correct exposure and steady hand = good and sharp picture :heart: