xtol

[student]

wow, there so much information flowing around here
ok from what i gather... my agitation is not too good.

1) i need to do 2 inversions in a 'sweeping' motion
2) no bartending
3) no earthquakes
4) bang the tank to dislodge air bubbles after every 2 inversions


Violent bartending = violent grain!

Am i right?

Something like that!

Slow and steady. "Inversions' are not just "inversion'. It is a "rotation + inversion" at the same time - a "sweep". There are many different agitation timings. Rangeing from every 15 seconds to every 30 seconds to every minute to stand development. They all have their role, but you will have to understand why you are doing what you are doing.

For me, my standard agitation timing is 60 seconds initially, then 10-15 seconds perminute subsequently.

 

[oszzy]

the grain size is not affected by high temperatures even at 30 deg C. As long as you keep the temperature constant from developiong to fixing. temperature difference btw 1 deg C to 2deg BEFORE Fixing is sure to give reticulation. After about 2 mins of fixing, the neg is safe from reticulation. Reticulation is not "enlarged" grain size. Its due to cracking of the emulsion. Looks ugly.

I have done tri X both at 20 deg C and 30 deg C. Same results. Agitation method does influence the grain size, although to a certain degree. Noticeable at larger enlargements eg, 12 x 16 sizes.

I always do developing at 27 - 30 dec C. I always measure the temp first and compensate the timing accordingly from my experience. All Ok. Have printed up to 16 x 20 from 35mm neg. looks good.

Agitation influences contrast more. Once a friend "bartendered" his first roll of B&W film and got "golf balls size" grain and very contrasty neg.

 

[icarus]

One question about temperatures - When you guys talk about temperature here, do u refer to the temperature of the developing mixture? or do i have to keep the temperature constant for the stop bath and fixer too?

Currently, i only monitored temperature for the developing mixture - at 24 degrees C, but my stop bath and fixer are mixed with tap water (room temperature). :think:

 

[oszzy]

You have to keep the temperature constant from the developing to stopping to fixing. Washing after fixing is ok to use tap water at higher temp.