XH-G1 - Need some advice


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did u say its set to +3 gain when gain is disable? huh??
dude just set it to -3 or 0 gain.
Nobody who spends 6k should shoots on AUTO/Defualt settings..

The second and third grabs are shot from stocklens without any adaptor.
Of course, please take proper lighting, settings into play.
 

did u say its set to +3 gain when gain is disable? huh??
dude just set it to -3 or 0 gain.
Nobody who spends 6k should shoots on AUTO/Defualt settings..

The second and third grabs are shot from stocklens without any adaptor.
Of course, please take proper lighting, settings into play.

Hi Hobbes, the output from the sensor (CCD) is an analogue voltage that has to be converted to digital in the camera, before processing, compression and recording to tape. The gain switch is used to boost or cut the analogue voltage before the conversion to digital data. Positive values represent boost, negative values mean attenuation.

Why would you want to attenuate the voltage? Yes, noise reduction is one factor. If there is a lot of available light then the CCD output voltage is nice and high. Attenuating this voltage also attenuates any noise so the blacks should look cleaner. Another reason to attenuate the voltage is to reduce the effective exposure which allows you to open up the iris a bit more and get a slightly shallower depth of field.

By the way, -3dB just means that the CCD signal voltage is attenuated by around 30%. +3dB means a boost of around 40%, and 0dB means no boost or attenuation.

If there is no backlight, we can safely fall back on the current crop of HDV camcorder's auto mode when there's a massive variation of lighting differences from indoor to sunny, bright outdoor when there is no time for quick adjustment, for example. Unless there's a specific overexposure or underexposure look that you are going for but I doubt that the 2.8" LCD is massively accurate representation of HDV images.....
 

Hi Hobbes, the output from the sensor (CCD) is an analogue voltage that has to be converted to digital in the camera, before processing, compression and recording to tape. The gain switch is used to boost or cut the analogue voltage before the conversion to digital data. Positive values represent boost, negative values mean attenuation.

Why would you want to attenuate the voltage? Yes, noise reduction is one factor. If there is a lot of available light then the CCD output voltage is nice and high. Attenuating this voltage also attenuates any noise so the blacks should look cleaner. Another reason to attenuate the voltage is to reduce the effective exposure which allows you to open up the iris a bit more and get a slightly shallower depth of field.

By the way, -3dB just means that the CCD signal voltage is attenuated by around 30%. +3dB means a boost of around 40%, and 0dB means no boost or attenuation.

If there is no backlight, we can safely fall back on the current crop of HDV camcorder's auto mode when there's a massive variation of lighting differences from indoor to sunny, bright outdoor when there is no time for quick adjustment, for example. Unless there's a specific overexposure or underexposure look that you are going for but I doubt that the 2.8" LCD is massively accurate representation of HDV images.....

I agree about the noise. In general the A1 is more grainy compared with my previous cam, an XL2, and I usually set it to -3dB unless there is not enough light.

Not so sure about the auto mode though. Usually I use the same shutter speed all the time, (1/50s) and adjust the iris ring to set the exposure. It is quite fast to make adjustments manually, unless the lighting conditions change so much that I need to switch the ND in or out. Anyway, I hate to see the exposure fluctuate all the time just because someone with a white T-shirt walks across the shot, so very rarely use auto. My normal method on the XL2 used to be to use Tv mode to get in the ballpark and then press Exposure Lock before shooting , but now that I have an iris ring, I tend to have Exposure Lock on all the time and just tweak the ring.

Just wish the A1 could have zebras and focus assist active at the same time. That would be nice.
 

There are instances when the action is continuous while adjusting the iris is easy, it will cause your hand to jerk. Aspecially when its a overhead shot to which I do alot of, thus I relied on auto iris to concentrate on the motion.
 

hahaha this camera gave me loadsa headache ! :) sorry guys but i pro panasonic lah . my personal experience wif the camera hmmm...... ok i name a few positive and negatives

1.lightweight 4 handhelds its easier and less bulkier than any hdv i handled
2.amperture ring is infront no small iris rings or buttons
3.has loadsa settings,like master black usually i prefer to set my master black @-3 to-6

negatives
1.I hated the lens esp 4 depth of field i can't imagine shooting at f3.7 at night and still have depth in it? definitely not 4 me how many blondies do i need to use?
2.the centre line? dun understand wats that centre line 4? use to shoot in safety markers or centre markings not wif a long centre line?????
3.images are bad when shooting in f1.7 dun noe y maybe the image sensors or sumting
4.too many confusing buttons and the sensitivity of the focusing a tiny touch and there goes ur focus

sorry guys just my experience i wanna share bout the cam! pls feel free to object to any of views!
 

Ok I love XHA1... but HVX > XH..
haha
Does anyone own a HVX here?
 

What monster is that? Looks like an alien from mars:bigeyes:

Are there any shoulder attachment for this camera? I think it will be more stable to rest the camera on the shoulder.

Cool. have you try this machine before ?
 

Ok I love XHA1... but HVX > XH..
haha
Does anyone own a HVX here?

A HVX have a differenet workflow from the rest of the HDV camera.
p2 Card is still really new to industry ...
need to wait for a while for the technology to be stable.
i would say for now if you are getting a HDV camera,
the A1 or sony v1 is a better buy
 

haha imagine shooting @f8 indoors it may look cool but u need big hmi's and loadsa big lights to reach the desired lighting!
 

yeah but only hvx shoots in full hd mode i mean hd not hdv
 

yes mr faiz if you shoot using the p2 card or else you still using the dv format. hahaha......
 

yeah but only hvx shoots in full hd mode i mean hd not hdv

I thought the HVX sensor is only something like quarter HD resolution, and uses pixel shift in 2 directions to scale up to HD?
 

yeahx2 but full hd format compression is really2 high imagine 1gb data 4 1min of full footage but 4 the xd its recording is 2 mb per min if i'm not wrong and it's mpeg2 compression, to me the p2 system gives a quite loadsa system in terms of flexibility , if i have a project e.g 4 broadcast i just need to transfer it to dvcpro tapes instead of converting from dvcam to digibeta its loadsa hassle , and got words from pana insider they coming out wif HVX 500 like whoa... its bigger i heard
 

yeahx2 but full hd format compression is really2 high imagine 1gb data 4 1min of full footage but 4 the xd its recording is 2 mb per min if i'm not wrong and it's mpeg2 compression, to me the p2 system gives a quite loadsa system in terms of flexibility , if i have a project e.g 4 broadcast i just need to transfer it to dvcpro tapes instead of converting from dvcam to digibeta its loadsa hassle , and got words from pana insider they coming out wif HVX 500 like whoa... its bigger i heard

Sorry Faiz, just winding you up. I know you are passionate about Panasonic! :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Richard
 

yES HE IS a panasonic geek!
but HVX is pretty hardcore - put the statistics aside, just compare photo quality
 

it's ok richard , it's wiser to use panasonic 4 dv but 4 broadcast sony's my choice ! and canon lenses are my favourite!
 

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