X-T1 with 18-55mm or OMD EM5 MK 2 with 12-40mm pro


Thanks guys, for the honest and useful feedback. Actually I was leaning more towards the X-T1 with 18-55mm setup but after seeing all those amazing photos produced by the 12-40mm F2.8 pro lens, I now in a position don't know which to choose :dunno:

If you zoom in arrr what APS-C sensor can give you is a lot more than M4/3 offers but like Ryan said, if you already have a M4/3 lens then stick with the family.

Plus if you want focal lenght then again M4/3 is better because to 35mm equivalent is times 2 compared to APS-C times 1.5.
 

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Thanks guys, for the honest and useful feedback. Actually I was leaning more towards the X-T1 with 18-55mm setup but after seeing all those amazing photos produced by the 12-40mm F2.8 pro lens, I now in a position don't know which to choose :dunno:
But on the other side, have you seen the photos taken on Fuji 56mm F1.2 and 90mm F2 ?

Just goto Fuji showroom at Funan Level 4, the fotos from Fuji XT-1 are amazing too, if not better ...

Also, forgot to mention, the EVF in Fuji XT-1, in my opinion is the best amongst all m4/3 & Fuji models ... just try it ...

Also forgot to mention, this is personal preference, Fuji XT-1 has a lot of physical button dials, so to adjust the important settings like ISO, Aperture, Shutter speed, exposure compensation is very fast by dials, no need to go thru pressing buttons and then arrow keys (except for focusing then GX7/8 is better)


If you zoom in arrr what APS-C sensor can give you is a lot more than M4/3 offers but like Ryan said, if you already have a M4/3 lens then stick with the family.
Thanks for agreeing ...
 

But on the other side, have you seen the photos taken on Fuji 56mm F1.2 and 90mm F2 ?

Just goto Fuji showroom at Funan Level 4, the fotos from Fuji XT-1 are amazing too, if not better ...

Also, forgot to mention, the EVF in Fuji XT-1, in my opinion is the best amongst all m4/3 & Fuji models ... just try it ...

Also forgot to mention, this is personal preference, Fuji XT-1 has a lot of physical button dials, so to adjust the important settings like ISO, Aperture, Shutter speed, exposure compensation is very fast by dials, no need to go thru pressing buttons and then arrow keys (except for focusing then GX7/8 is better)

I understand that the 56mm and the 90mm take amazing photos too but I am considering just getting a good zoom lens and save my trouble buying all the prime lens. I have a budget of around $2000 to play around and that's how I ended up with X-T1 with 18-55mm and the EM5 Mk2 with 12-40mm setup. The EM5 setup is already pushing my budget. Actually did look into the 16-55mm for fuji setup but the X-T1 with 16-55mm is way out of my budget. So now it all boils down to which mentioned setup will produce a better IQ.

Btw, I already been to fuji showroom for a number of times playing with the X-T1 and X-T10, I have to agree that the X-T1 has the best EVF at this point of time.
 

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I understand that the 56mm and the 90mm take amazing photos too but I am considering just getting a good zoom lens and save my trouble buying all the prime lens. I have a budget of around $2000 to play around and that's how I ended up with X-T1 with 18-55mm and the EM5 Mk2 with 12-40mm setup. The EM5 setup is already pushing my budget. Actually did look into the 16-55mm for fuji setup but the X-T1 with 16-55mm is way out of my budget. So now it all boils down to which mentioned setup will produce a better IQ.

Btw, I already been to fuji showroom for a number of times playing with the X-T1 and X-T10, I have to agree that the X-T1 has the best EVF at this point of time.

Maybe, in your case, you should go for the Fuji XT-1 with 18-55 if you haven't start any system yet. Also the IQ is slightly better than the m4/3. The trade off is you will have a slower focusing speed ..

Just my opinion ...

All the best ...
 

I understand that the 56mm and the 90mm take amazing photos too but I am considering just getting a good zoom lens and save my trouble buying all the prime lens. I have a budget of around $2000 to play around and that's how I ended up with X-T1 with 18-55mm and the EM5 Mk2 with 12-40mm setup. The EM5 setup is already pushing my budget. Actually did look into the 16-55mm for fuji setup but the X-T1 with 16-55mm is way out of my budget. So now it all boils down to which mentioned setup will produce a better IQ.

Btw, I already been to fuji showroom for a number of times playing with the X-T1 and X-T10, I have to agree that the X-T1 has the best EVF at this point of time.

Whatever you do if you get X-T1, don't touch the 50-140 LOL
 

I understand that the 56mm and the 90mm take amazing photos too but I am considering just getting a good zoom lens and save my trouble buying all the prime lens. I have a budget of around $2000 to play around and that's how I ended up with X-T1 with 18-55mm and the EM5 Mk2 with 12-40mm setup. The EM5 setup is already pushing my budget. Actually did look into the 16-55mm for fuji setup but the X-T1 with 16-55mm is way out of my budget. So now it all boils down to which mentioned setup will produce a better IQ.

Btw, I already been to fuji showroom for a number of times playing with the X-T1 and X-T10, I have to agree that the X-T1 has the best EVF at this point of time.

Well, is very hard to make decision and I know, when I was choosing between X-T1 and A7ii.

Honestly, I have seen the pictures of what APS-C and M 4/3 can do.

Put in short, M 4/3 will gain extra focal length while APS-C will have better fine details while Full-Frame (35mm) give you better Depth of field.

If you are choosing between X-T1 and EM5mk2, you may want to step down and look at X-T10 vs EM5mk2 instead. Since you are no longer comparing Apple to Apple (Any way is not fair match) but more on the pricing standpoint.

The reason for going EM5Mk2 is for the IBIS, this special feature is good to have but I personally preferred the on lens version compared to in body.

The plus point, with IBIS, you don’t need to worry which lens you are buying since the body itself comes with a stabiliser and M 4/3 can mount Panasonic lens which grant you a super large selection of lens.

The point of going with Fuji is mainly for the IQ and the colour profile. It has the most natural colour profile and the fun factor in photography LOL.
Why I suggest you to look at X-T10 is because with X-T10, the saving can be allocated for lens.
X-T1 vs X-T10 (I putting the cons first)

Cons that I noticed:
At ISO 6400, X-T10 IQ will suffer slightly (saw the image output vs X-T1 on the same lens)
Lacked of weather seal, anyway the default kit 18-55 does not have weather seal unless you going for the 18-135.
Lacked of support for super high speed card, that UHS 3 (only useful if you use burst mode)
Smaller EVF


Pros
Small body
More easy to use vs X-T1 as you have more ability to set customise buttons.
In build flash (X-T1 is external Flash to put on hot shoe)

Your call, if you want to know where is a good place to learn more between the 2 systems, drop me a PM and I tell you who and where to disturb. LOL.
 

... but I personally preferred the on lens version compared to in body.
Can share your thoughts why your preference is for the stabilisation on the lens ?

Thanks
 

Your call, if you want to know where is a good place to learn more between the 2 systems, drop me a PM and I tell you who and where to disturb. LOL.

Can PM me on who to disturb ? :bsmilie:

lol
 

Can share your thoughts why your preference is for the stabilisation on the lens ?

Thanks

This is very personal so don't attack me LOL.

Why Lens, the lens designed will allow more space for correction and most of the time, the shakes induce comes from the lens (normally heavy lens etc: zoom lens or far reach lens).

A good lens can be as effective as 5 stops during operations but IBIS so far based on feedback is about 2 to 3 F stops.
Personally, I prefer the lens to do the job, sometimes IBIS will be active due to induce shutter vibration… and we have to off it.
 

This is very personal so don't attack me LOL.
No lah, everyone is free to say & ask anything, so why would I want to attack you ? ... :dunno: :bsmilie:

Why Lens, the lens designed will allow more space for correction and most of the time, the shakes induce comes from the lens (normally heavy lens etc: zoom lens or far reach lens).

A good lens can be as effective as 5 stops during operations but IBIS so far based on feedback is about 2 to 3 F stops.
Personally, I prefer the lens to do the job, sometimes IBIS will be active due to induce shutter vibration… and we have to off it.
Thank you for your insight, bro :thumbsup:
 

Thanks for all the advice, finally took the plunge and went for the Fuji X-T1 with 18-55mm kit lens. I must say I am very happy with the IQ of the camera. Still have not try out the camera outdoor but managed to take a few indoor shots, and here is one of them.

$DSCF0012_3.jpg

f/3.2, 1/34 sec ISO 6400
 

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Nice photo bro & enjoy your new toy !

Congrats on your new purchase !

Thanks for all the advice, finally took the plunge and went for the Fuji X-T1 with 18-55mm kit lens. I must say I am very happy with the IQ of the camera. Still have not try out the camera outdoor but managed to take a few indoor shots, and here is one of them.

View attachment 9645

f/3.2, 1/34 sec ISO 6400
 

Btw, I already been to fuji showroom for a number of times playing with the X-T1 and X-T10, I have to agree that the X-T1 has the best EVF at this point of time.

actually i still dont understand why Fuji @ Funan still puts the X-T1 and X-T10 with their rubber grip falling off on display. =/
 

actually i still dont understand why Fuji @ Funan still puts the X-T1 and X-T10 with their rubber grip falling off on display. =/

It's only means that they have been molested so much that the rubbers can't take it anymore lol.
 

Thanks for all the advice, finally took the plunge and went for the Fuji X-T1 with 18-55mm kit lens. I must say I am very happy with the IQ of the camera. Still have not try out the camera outdoor but managed to take a few indoor shots, and here is one of them. <img src="http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=9645"/> f/3.2, 1/34 sec ISO 6400

Enjoy and share soon !!
 

actually i still dont understand why Fuji @ Funan still puts the X-T1 and X-T10 with their rubber grip falling off on display. =/

Does anyone have the issue of rubber grip falling after long usage of their X-T1?

I was also quite surprised to see that the rubber grip is falling apart
 

Actually thinking of getting the MHG-XT Metal Hand Grip for X-T1, it makes the camera feels so much better on the hand and no need to worry about the rubber grip on the camera itself.
 

Actually thinking of getting the MHG-XT Metal Hand Grip for X-T1, it makes the camera feels so much better on the hand and no need to worry about the rubber grip on the camera itself.

What about also getting a 56mm F1.2 prime lens ? :bsmilie:
 

What about also getting a 56mm F1.2 prime lens ? :bsmilie:

Don't tempt me bro.....already over spent liao :cry:, in fact I am rather impress with the 16-55mm f2.8 lens. Thinking of saving some money first, sell the 18-55mm kit lens and go for the 16-55mm f2.8 lens :bsmilie:
 

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Don't tempt me bro.....already over spent liao, in fact I am rather impress with the 16-55mm f2.8 lens. Thinking of saving some money first, sell the 18-55mm kit lens and go for the 16-55mm f2.8 lens

Hahaha ... money is earned for spending ... :bsmilie:

don't save too much ... :nono: :nono: :bsmilie:

On a serious note, my personal opinion is that no need to get the 16-55mmm because it doesn't have OIS and also it is big and heavy. I was also thinkering about whether to get his lens or the 18-55 kit. I think go for the 18-55 kit and then buy the MUST HAVE legendary lens 56mm F1.2 is better !!

Tried the 56mm F1.2 and 90mm F2. Both are :thumbsup:

cheers
 

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