Why my DLSR camera image taken is not as good compare to a digital Camera

[Nenjia]

and one more point, the metering mode used will also,make different!

 

[ombre]

That was one of the reason why I need to use LV to check the WB (esp indoor shots) before taking a shot... else have to use custom WB....

hmm... okay haha, I usually photoshop my WB or else i'll preset =X, yea I agree, maybe thats one good reason. But I'm generally laxed in my WB, usually AWB results won't be that off that it can't be saved.

 

[Anson]

hmm... okay haha, I usually photoshop my WB or else i'll preset =X, yea I agree, maybe thats one good reason. But I'm generally laxed in my WB, usually AWB results won't be that off that it can't be saved.

For me unless shooting in RAW, the WB sometime are quite hard to adjust (may ugly color cast if not corrected properly) and it would show in a lot of photos if the initial WB is setup wrongly from the camera. AWB Bracketing is something new in my 450D that I have yet to explore, but if I am not wrong it would take 3 separate shots for you to choose later. Remember in an event shooting there could be hundreds to thousand photo, all these photo time by 3... :sweat:

For me the availability of a LV system & good viewing angle (450D = 170 degree, 40D=140 degree at all direction) is one of the main reason why I choose the model. At least canon did not "cripple" the camera by excluding some of the features (such as spot metering, Quick AF in LV). :thumbsup:

 

[ombre]

For me unless shooting in RAW, the WB sometime are quite hard to adjust (may ugly color cast if not corrected properly) and it would show in a lot of photos if the initial WB is setup wrongly from the camera. AWB Bracketing is something new in my 450D that I have yet to explore, but if I am not wrong it would take 3 separate shots for you to choose later. Remember in an event shooting there could be hundreds to thousand photo, all these photo time by 3... :sweat:

For me the availability of a LV system & good viewing angle (450D = 170 degree, 40D=140 degree at all direction) is one of the main reason why I choose the model. At least canon did not "cripple" the camera by excluding some of the features (such as spot metering, Quick AF in LV). :thumbsup:

Well I've tried AWB Bracketing, its available on my 350D too. In my opinion it seems worthless unless doing some funny HDR. (Maybe I just don't know how to use it). The 3 shots differ innoticably, unless you're shooting a critical scene, the difference is hard to spot. And you have to use the burst mode... haha. Not just that, I think even the single shot mode will be bracketed. It will just wait for you to shoot the next to set the next color. Imagine how catastrophic your day's photo will look =X

Hm, but do you ever feel that LV makes your holding posture a little 'loose'?

 

[shuhry81]

agree with you. Perhaps he has solved his problem-He can take good pictures now..Congratulation , sweeshiwei,if you really solve your problem and please do not be scared by the way we response to your thread. We are a group of people who really want to help each other in our unique way.

keep shooting, brother.

hahax! funny antics.. he prolly shud read the manual and shoot more:devil:~ or just sell off his 400d

 

[Anson]

Well I've tried AWB Bracketing, its available on my 350D too. In my opinion it seems worthless unless doing some funny HDR. (Maybe I just don't know how to use it). The 3 shots differ innoticably, unless you're shooting a critical scene, the difference is hard to spot. And you have to use the burst mode... haha. Not just that, I think even the single shot mode will be bracketed. It will just wait for you to shoot the next to set the next color. Imagine how catastrophic your day's photo will look =X

Hm, but do you ever feel that LV makes your holding posture a little 'loose'?

I think for HDR you should be using AEB Bracketing instead... which is mainly for landscape shot... :think:

When I use LV for shooting, I normally take it above my head.... for event shooting.. Other time I would use the EF or OVF instead..... Personally I feel that LV is very important for me, else I may have chosen the D90 (if Nikon have not taken out the Quick AF in LV) instead...

 

[ellsworth]

I think I mention earlier... come close...:think:

The E3 is currently the top of the range professional camera from Olympus. If LX3's noise performance matches the E3, I think everyone would buy the LX3 instead. :bsmilie:

It should be far from close.

 

[Anson]

It should be far from close.

Close (or far) is it's own point of view.... Have seen a E410 doing a high ISO shot.... it ain't pretty... :dunno:

 

[sweeshiwei]

there is a thing called tripod and shutter release cable

hi there, Good morning,
hmm .. but doesnt the IS function provide the necc support to stabilize the image?
I upgrade my lens to IS from the normal lens. if i still need the tripod, what would be the point to upgrade?

 

[sweeshiwei]

Even when you have increase your ISO to max (1600), you are still using a relative low shutter speed... 1/x during a night shoot. I strong suggest you use a tripod instead....

Hi Anson,

Thanks for comments. if taking night scene i should use lower ISO?
I tried using lower ISO i will result in darker image. under the same shutter speed setting
for 1/800~1000.

 

[sweeshiwei]

Yes you held the cam tightly, but the camera is not shaking, it is your hands that are shaking :bsmilie:

Use a real steady tripod, with additional shutter release cable. Otherwise use tripod+self timer.

Actually most photos from dslrs need sharpening. A photo direct from pns cam may seem sharper, because the processor in the pns cam has already done aggressive sharpening. Dslrs don't do that.

And pns cams have real tiny sensors, packed with lots of pixels. Hence pixel density is extremely high, giving you more resolution than dslrs(of equivalent pixel count). However, you'll get real lot of noise on pns cams.

.. hmm most photos from dslr need sharpening. ...
mind i say . i always thought the higher the pixel the camera have, the better the image quality. especially when you are shooting from long distance or landscape.
I felt that there will be a lot sharpening for our software if base on my earlier 1st post image.
is there other sharpening software other photoshop?

 

[Nenjia]

hmm... okay haha, I usually photoshop my WB or else i'll preset =X, yea I agree, maybe thats one good reason. But I'm generally laxed in my WB, usually AWB results won't be that off that it can't be saved.

if you take in RAW, WB is not a problem you may always adjust it in pp. but if in JPG, it is important, you may adjust it in PP too, but it will result IQ lost

 

[Nenjia]

.. hmm most photos from dslr need sharpening. ...
mind i say . i always thought the higher the pixel the camera have, the better the image quality. especially when you are shooting from long distance or landscape.
I felt that there will be a lot sharpening for our software if base on my earlier 1st post image.
is there other sharpening software other photoshop?

if you like to have good color depth, select CCD sensor, CMOS sensor is not able to achieve what CCD does in depth, but CMOS has lower noise level and larger size but cheaper too!

 

[sweeshiwei]

let me add some word on the issue
to get a great picture, when you hold a DC, most of time, you try by luck -- DC catches the moment you can't and no need to control-- if you want to understand more, try to understand how DC works
when you hold a DSLR, most of time, you need depend on your skill , of course you can use Auto/P/ or scene mode, then you actually do not need a DSLR.
in most of case, if you do not want to sharpen your skill, DC will give you higher chance to get a good looking image, but once you understand your weapon, DSLR will let you get want you want to achieve!
that's also why the most expensive pro-level DSLR, don't even keep a auto mode and without a built in flash!
this is also the fun comes for DSLR!!!!!!:bsmilie::bsmilie:
try harder, shoot, think and read, will help!

cheers! thanks . yup. thats one of the reason i buy dlsr.
i don really use a auto mode. cos it will be a waste of buying dslr if i use auto mode to take photo.
learning the type of setting ( appropriate setting ) for different conditions.

 

[ahbian]

hi there, Good morning,
hmm .. but doesnt the IS function provide the necc support to stabilize the image?
I upgrade my lens to IS from the normal lens. if i still need the tripod, what would be the point to upgrade?

IS is not a replacement for tripod if/because
1) Your handholding technique is not too stable to start with
2) The extra stops still cannot compensate the long exposures required, especially in night photography.

 

[ahbian]

Hi Anson,

Thanks for comments. if taking night scene i should use lower ISO?
I tried using lower ISO i will result in darker image. under the same shutter speed setting
for 1/800~1000.

Simply put,

High ISO and short shutter speed --> correctly exposed image with noise
Low ISO and short shutter speed --> dark image
Low ISO and long shutter speed --> correctly exposed image with reduced noise

That is why you need a tripod, because of the long shutter speed. IS ain't going to cover it.

 

[sweeshiwei]

for night photography, usually are these settings
ISO = the lowest yr dslr can go, ISO 100, ISO 200 etc.
shutter = usually more than 12-15secs
F stop = F8 and above
using a tripod is a must.
these are not hard rules(u can shoot at different ISO, shutter, F stop etc)... but usually with these settings, the photo will turn out ok, then it is up to yr perspective.

Thanks! yup. the setting value are remembered.
I gonna try out this settings.
If taking night shots , i must use tripod.
I will need to use low ISO and long shutter speeds around 12 sec est.
as for the F stop. use F8

FYI, 12 secs shutter is gonna take some time cos normally i use " 1~3 secs.

 

[sweeshiwei]

Simply put,

High ISO and short shutter speed --> correctly exposed image with noise
Low ISO and short shutter speed --> dark image
Low ISO and long shutter speed --> correctly exposed image with reduced noise

That is why you need a tripod, because of the long shutter speed. IS ain't going to cover it.

i see.. this answer to my question why some of my image is with noise.

cos i normally use a higher ISO and short shutter speeds. with a higher EV.
image looks ok on the camera LCD, but when download to PC. the results is different.
guess the IS is for short range and more lighted up environment ( shorter shutter speed)

 

[ZerocoolAstra]

.. hmm most photos from dslr need sharpening. ...
mind i say . i always thought the higher the pixel the camera have, the better the image quality. especially when you are shooting from long distance or landscape.
I felt that there will be a lot sharpening for our software if base on my earlier 1st post image.
is there other sharpening software other photoshop?

hmmmm, i don't agree with you on that point.
Have compared photos taken by my D80 vs my previous Lumix FZ10 and friends' PnS cams...
[all as straight-out-of-the-cam JPGs]
The difference is startling. The D80 is MUCH MUCH sharper than any of them. And I'm just using the pathetic kit lens. So I think your conclusion is unjustified.
Mind you, I take most snapshot-style photos on my D80 as small-normal, so each photo is about 500KB or thereabouts only. D80 on small-normal and FZ10 on high quality setting, also the D80 looks sharper.

 

[sweeshiwei]

hahax! funny antics.. he prolly shud read the manual and shoot more:devil:~ or just sell off his 400d

hmm you are right for the 1st 2 points. ( but manual are quite limited in the information)
i would think dslr related book or magazine would be more better.
sometimes i will read up Photo video magazine.

selling my 400d .. over my dead body unless i am upgrading to a higher level type of cam. haha ...:bsmilie: