I am totally a newbie in slide photography. But I was shocked for the color and detail it produces at a friend's home. However, her S$200+ projector is quite lousy (blur at edges). Let's say if my budget is <S$500, which projector worths condisering?
Which projector to get?
- Thread starter tomshen
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Kodak Carousel cheap meh?
Anyway, tomshen, the un-sharpness is due to the lens, not the projector. You should be able to buy a better (read : more expensive) lens for the major projector brands.
Regards
CK
How about the Leica P150 or P300 or P600? Depends on your budget...from S$250 with lens till over S$1k without lens...
I bought a Braun Photo Technik Novamat M 350 a few years back for S$300 from Ruby Photo. Quite a decent performer with a wireless remote which also allows you to use the built in screen if there isn't a suitable wall for you to project on.
And I concur with Kho King about the loupe, get one (4x for viewing the entire slide or higher maginifcation for checking sharpness) as well as a light panel for quick viewing or examining details first.
And I concur with Kho King about the loupe, get one (4x for viewing the entire slide or higher maginifcation for checking sharpness) as well as a light panel for quick viewing or examining details first.
Most crucial part in a projector? Hmm...I think many parts come together to produce good projected image. Lens, light, and some projector can even correct angle thus produe flate non distorted image.
A 4x loupe is just like viewing print in 4R size. You can't check critical sharpness using a 4x loupe. 8x or 10x is needed here...but they are expensive. Rodenstock 4x + Cabin light panel is selling at around S$185 at Cathay Photo. A Rodenstock 6x loupe is more than S$200...
Btw, you can only view full frame 35mm using a 4x or 6x loupe. 8x, 10x or higher magnification is meant to check certain part sharpness.
A 4x loupe is just like viewing print in 4R size. You can't check critical sharpness using a 4x loupe. 8x or 10x is needed here...but they are expensive. Rodenstock 4x + Cabin light panel is selling at around S$185 at Cathay Photo. A Rodenstock 6x loupe is more than S$200...
Btw, you can only view full frame 35mm using a 4x or 6x loupe. 8x, 10x or higher magnification is meant to check certain part sharpness.
err sorry abit out of topic.
can slides be developed into films? if can will the color be lost drastically?
can slides be developed into films? if can will the color be lost drastically?
R you trying to say develop/copy slide into negative or print? If into negative, then you have to get the slide copier setup (bellows, lens...etc.). If you mean into print, then currently Fuji Frontier can develop print from slide. Old way is using Cibachrome chemical (if I am not mistaken).
I am not sure, but I know the Kodak Carousels are not cheap. You can try getting an e-quote from Cathay Photo's website. On the other hand, there are projectors in the $100-200 region as well.
Can't really DIY a decent projector, at least not without a proper slide tray. If you really want to make one, some of those science projects books might have instructions.
Like I mentioned, most projectors allow you to change the projection lens, which is one of the most important parts which affect image quality.
Regards
CK
I am actually new to projector too. Any recommendation on which projection screen to be used? Brand...price...size...
I have no idea, bought it a few years back liao. But I do remember seeing the projector in a box a couple of months back at Ruby Photo.
IMHO, getting the loupe and light panel are more important since it allows you to view your slides over daylight corrected light with minimal fuss. Most importantly, you do not have to mount your slides in order to view them.
I have a very old $200+ Rollei slide projector.
To me most important is to get one with autofocus. You have to manually focus the first slide and the projector will automatically focus when changing slides.
This is because most paper/plastic mount slides are not of the same thickness, when the slide get change it may not locate in the same focus plan as the previous slide. Some time when you view a slide for too long, the heat of the lamp may cause it to warp and thus out of focus. In these cases the autofocus is very usefull.
As for bluring at the edge, you need to place the projector at a minimum distance away from the screen, depending of the lense you have. If use correctly a $200+ projector can also produce good result.
The principle is that the slide projector is a point light source, the distance from the centre of the screen to the projector is not the same as that measure between the edge of the screen and the projector. If the projector is place futher away from the screen, the difference will be quite small.
A slide projector is a simple piece of equipment, unless you want to have fancifull feature like fade-in fade-out, or be able to trigger by tape signal or syn with a few projector. It is not necessary to invest in Kodak projector which are quite expensive due to its expansibility options.
To me most important is to get one with autofocus. You have to manually focus the first slide and the projector will automatically focus when changing slides.
This is because most paper/plastic mount slides are not of the same thickness, when the slide get change it may not locate in the same focus plan as the previous slide. Some time when you view a slide for too long, the heat of the lamp may cause it to warp and thus out of focus. In these cases the autofocus is very usefull.
As for bluring at the edge, you need to place the projector at a minimum distance away from the screen, depending of the lense you have. If use correctly a $200+ projector can also produce good result.
The principle is that the slide projector is a point light source, the distance from the centre of the screen to the projector is not the same as that measure between the edge of the screen and the projector. If the projector is place futher away from the screen, the difference will be quite small.
A slide projector is a simple piece of equipment, unless you want to have fancifull feature like fade-in fade-out, or be able to trigger by tape signal or syn with a few projector. It is not necessary to invest in Kodak projector which are quite expensive due to its expansibility options.
Many thanks to all of u for ur invaluable info, this makes me learn very fast;p
I bought a Rodenstock 4x+light panel from CP. But to be honest, I don't see much difference between this and another cheaper one (quoted abt $135) at 4x. Both are sharp. So what makes this loupe so special and everyone recommends it? I know this question is funny. Maybe I should put it this way: what are the criteria that make a good loupe?
As to the projector, very few shops in SLS sell. Kodak seems expensive so I am now considering other brands or used. Saw some Kindermann 1500 series at CP. r they good buys? Another model is reflecta classic 250FR. Also quite cheap. Should I just buy a cheap projector and upgrade the lens later or consider a used one? Quite confused:embrass:
Like my friends say: photography is really an expensive hobby. But once get involved, never regret. In my opinion, the negative film prints will die sooner or later. To me the onli advantage of film would be the slide. Its colors and sharpness still cannot be reached by digital. I think I will only shoot digital and slides from now on. Bye, negative
I bought a Rodenstock 4x+light panel from CP. But to be honest, I don't see much difference between this and another cheaper one (quoted abt $135) at 4x. Both are sharp. So what makes this loupe so special and everyone recommends it? I know this question is funny. Maybe I should put it this way: what are the criteria that make a good loupe?
As to the projector, very few shops in SLS sell. Kodak seems expensive so I am now considering other brands or used. Saw some Kindermann 1500 series at CP. r they good buys? Another model is reflecta classic 250FR. Also quite cheap. Should I just buy a cheap projector and upgrade the lens later or consider a used one? Quite confused:embrass:
Like my friends say: photography is really an expensive hobby. But once get involved, never regret. In my opinion, the negative film prints will die sooner or later. To me the onli advantage of film would be the slide. Its colors and sharpness still cannot be reached by digital. I think I will only shoot digital and slides from now on. Bye, negative
What is the $135 loupe? Rodenstock + Cabin light panel is about S$185, the light panel alone costs about S$90, thus you are actually getting cheaper price for the Rodenstock. Am I right?
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