Can't really compare this 2 lens at wide open as f1.2 is 1 and 1/3 stop faster then f2. Sharpness only contribute one of the parameter to a good picture. I like the 85L for it's contrast, colour and this 3D pop out effects.
which Primes for Full body shot with gd bokeh?
- Thread starter blurry80
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Can't really compare this 2 lens at wide open as f1.2 is 1 and 1/3 stop faster then f2. Sharpness only contribute one of the parameter to a good picture. I like the 85L for it's contrast, colour and this 3D pop out effects.
KelvinDestiny
Senior Member
hmmm maybe thats the factor on its wide open i only used 85 1.2 mk 1 once while 135 been using for mths.. the 3D pop out effects you referring to mk1 or 2? i heard that the mk1 3D pop out effects is better than mk2
I wanted to be realistic with you since you mentioned full body shots. Typically lenses with longer focal length will produce better bokeh i.e. 135mm f2L or the 200mm f2L etc...This would also mean that you need to walk further away from your subject, even so on a cropped body, for a full body shot!!! So getting the 135 f2L or 200L does not seems to makes sense at all even they produce great bokeh. My assumption is that you will need to use flash for your shots, so the distance the flash can get to your subject is another consideration.
On a cropped body for full body shots, I would recommend the 35mm f1.4L or the 24mm f1.4 Mark II. Also don't forget the Carl Zeiss lenses (ZE) 28, 38 or 50mm. CZ are famous to achieve the "3D" effects. They are great lenses for full body shots and I am talking about a cropped body here. Assuming you wanted to take a full body shot of a person or model with a 50mm. You might want to consider either the more expensive 50mm f1.2L or the much cheaper Sigma 50f1.4 HSM, both lenses produce great bokeh. But if you get the 50mm, it also means that you have to stay slightly further away from your subject to get a full body shot, which is achievable using the 580 EX II flash.
You could forget about the 85mm on a cropped cam body for a full body shot if you like to get close to the subject. I know 85mm f1.2L Mark II has perhaps the best Canon bokeh but still it might not be practical for you. Of course, costs of that lens is a prime consideration as well.
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Not much visual difference but if i get to choose again, I will go for the 1st version with slower AF and risk of 1kg paper weight as Canon does not repair this lens anymore. The extra 1k difference means a 135L
HAHA
KelvinDestiny
Senior Member
Not much visual difference but if i get to choose again, I will go for the 1st version with slower AF and risk of 1kg paper weight as Canon does not repair this lens anymore. The extra 1k difference means a 135L
haha yea agree i will go for mk1 too if i were to get.. :think: Canon does not repair the mk 1 version already?
KelvinDestiny
Senior Member
awww thats sad... maybe the mk1 really better than mk2 in other areas except for the AF & coating :bsmilie:
KelvinDestiny
Senior Member
haha with 1k can do lots of things in other stuff like shopping, movies etc...
TTL-II is meant for using flash? correct me if im wrong. if yes i dont usually need that as most of my shots are done using natural light source :bsmilie:
Anson
Senior Member
Okie lah... if everyone is using long lens, then have chance. Below is the shot at 200mm F2.8 on a crop:
KelvinDestiny
Senior Member
Okie lah... if everyone is using long lens, then have chance. Below is the shot at 200mm F2.8 on a crop:
hmm bokeh looks good but i still prefer my 135L =P
surrephoto
Senior Member
Okie lah... if everyone is using long lens, then have chance. Below is the shot at 200mm F2.8 on a crop:
There are 2 paths to bokeh that is good and "gao" (as in kopi-o peng gao siew tai etc., for "thick").
First, use a long focal length (perhaps at least 200 mm) and as big as you can afford aperture (at least f5.6).
The good point is that bokeh quality is generally smooth at long focal lengths (diffused) and alot of lens are cheap and good through this technique. eg. 70-200 f4, 70-300...
The negative is that it can be at times painful to stand far, especially painful if you are on crop factor... you will be subject to the mercy of other photographers infront of you. Nor will people buy you liang teh if you get a sore throat shouting at models from afar aft 2 hours. :bsmilie:
Second, use a prime lens with a moderate focal length (50, 85, 135) boasting big apertures (at least f2).
The best part of this is that you get alot of isolation even at these perspectives...
Sadly, most cheap primes in this region feature awful bokeh quality which may be disastrous for portraiture (many 50 mm lenses are this case) You could pay thousands (eg. 85L, 50L) just for "nicer" bokeh... but bokeh will still be slightly inferior when on crop factor.
What's more, focusing at f1.8-1.2 can be a pain to get used to. And getting used to focusing is just the start of the ball game when you realize that the Kelvin (chief calibration staff) at canon service centre just became your best friend.
Which path is the best? It's up to you? I've chose the later.
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With all this talk of using a 200mm lens for a full body portrait on a crop body, I decided to take out my el cheapo telephoto and test it. Holy smokes, I had to stand at one end of my room, shoot across my hall into the other end of the dining room to get a full body shot. Must not be easy to work with that kind of a distance!
Go outside :bsmilie::bsmilie::bsmilie:
Okie lah... if everyone is using long lens, then have chance. Below is the shot at 200mm F2.8 on a crop:
I'm aiming for such bokeh, was contemplating the 200mm 2.8 but i think the 135 could achieve similar bokeh at shorter distance since its F2.
I wont be using the 135L indoors and there will be no other photographer infront of me when i shoot.
Of course, I was just trying out the distance, not planning to do that indoor any time soon! But even then it might be quite nasty to shoot across that distance for the model to pose
Of course, I was just trying out the distance, not planning to do that indoor any time soon! But even then it might be quite nasty to shoot across that distance for the model to pose
hehe
And also, it may be likely that indoors, the background may be too near to the model 
Here is another sample FF + 135L open wide.
yummy yummy yummy
KelvinDestiny
Senior Member
Of course, I was just trying out the distance, not planning to do that indoor any time soon! But even then it might be quite nasty to shoot across that distance for the model to pose
there's no need to shout.. that's what i did even when on organised shoot if i want a full body shots.
1st - go find the spot you wanted to shoot while the overtaking cars are going on
2nd - place a object or remember that spot that you wanted to take a full body portrait
3rd - go tell the model to pose for you one full body shoots or signal the model at a closer distance and alert others you want a full body shoot so that the overtaking cars will stop for a short moment
4th - run or walk back to your spot quickly and faster take a few shots :thumbsup:
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