Which one would b a better choice ?


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ok...
i realise now i hv to link to ur photobucket pic and save from there n not the thumbnail.

get a flash to solve ur problem

at least a sb600 so u can bounce the flash
 

Its good to have fast lens (not forgetting the cost and weight) but shooting at f2.8 will have shallow DOF (unless this is what you wish to have).

Flash makes the subject brighter, so it allows you to use faster shutter speed without having to open up your aperture.

There is no right or wrong, it depends what you want.

Ideally you should get both :bsmilie:
 

ask ur teacher to pay for it...
wat a joke.

an external flash work well too in low light situation.
jus bounce the flash

ya... i totally agree with u... that lens just cost too much for taking SIN...

i really suggest u to get external flash like what im going to do soon after my exam... its really helpful in low light conditions... i know its a little bit troublesome to bring extra things when u snapping, but remember, NO PAIN NO GAIN...;)
 

i went in wit a D90 + grip + 28-75mm 2.8 + SB600.
nothing else...heavy to sling ard the neck so hand carry lor...
posted my pics in the galleries for C&C..
 

Heh , i asked my teacher he said he rather i get a 70-200 f:/2.8 then getting a flash ?

Now let's see. You were shooting your 2nd pic at 200mm. After the crop factor, your effective focal length is 300mm. Using the rule of thumb of 1/focal length, you need a shutter speed of 1/300s. With the 70-200/2.8 VR, the VR gives you more 2 stops. So you'll need a min shutter speed of 1/75s.

The exposure value of your 2nd pic is ISO1600 f/5.6 1/8s. So with the 70-200/2.8 VR, from f/5.6 to f/2.8 you gain 2 stops. Let's say you shoot at ISO1600 f/2.8. Since you gain 2 stops, the shutter speed is now 1/32s, which is still 1 stop away from the needed min shutter speed.

The above assume that the original lens you used to shoot the pic has no VR. If it has VR, then you do not gain the 2 extra stops from VR, and you're now 3 stops away from needed min shutter speed.

So as you can see, buying the 70-200/2.8 VR is not really a good solution to this problem. What is a good solution? Learn how to use flash properly. I have a friend who insist on not using flash even in poorly lit condition, "to capture the atmosphere". And so what happened? He got all blur pics while I got good ones, simply because I used flash. :bsmilie:
 

Hmm , thx guys for th infos and ... i dun quite understand the rule of thumb ..
 

rule of thumb...look at ur thumb 1st...lol...

the flash is another tool to use to get the best pic.

even the nikon top flash sb900....is not even 1/2 the price of a 70-200 f/2.8

i think ur teacher operates the shop u buy ur stuffs from....Lol...no offence
 

Err , he's an teacher .. haha ...

Alrite will think thru carefully , dun wanna regret lyk wht i did when i get my camera body ... im lack of 200 bucks and i ended up getting a D60 rather then a D90 ...
 

rule of thumb...look at ur thumb 1st...lol...

the flash is another tool to use to get the best pic.

even the nikon top flash sb900....is not even 1/2 the price of a 70-200 f/2.8

i think ur teacher operates the shop u buy ur stuffs from....Lol...no offence

Pretenders.. pretenders pretenders.. hahaha...

On a side note, to shoot without flash at SIN is possible... :)
 

Btw, please type the words properly. You're not doing sms here on the forum.
 

Now let's see. You were shooting your 2nd pic at 200mm. After the crop factor, your effective focal length is 300mm. Using the rule of thumb of 1/focal length, you need a shutter speed of 1/300s. With the 70-200/2.8 VR, the VR gives you more 2 stops. So you'll need a min shutter speed of 1/75s.

The exposure value of your 2nd pic is ISO1600 f/5.6 1/8s. So with the 70-200/2.8 VR, from f/5.6 to f/2.8 you gain 2 stops. Let's say you shoot at ISO1600 f/2.8. Since you gain 2 stops, the shutter speed is now 1/32s, which is still 1 stop away from the needed min shutter speed.

The above assume that the original lens you used to shoot the pic has no VR. If it has VR, then you do not gain the 2 extra stops from VR, and you're now 3 stops away from needed min shutter speed.

So as you can see, buying the 70-200/2.8 VR is not really a good solution to this problem. What is a good solution? Learn how to use flash properly. I have a friend who insist on not using flash even in poorly lit condition, "to capture the atmosphere". And so what happened? He got all blur pics while I got good ones, simply because I used flash. :bsmilie:

How do u know howmuch shutter speed do you need in-order to get a clear picture ? hmm ...
 

How do u know howmuch shutter speed do you need in-order to get a clear picture ? hmm ...

As already mentioned in a few posts including mine, use the rule of thumb of min shutter speed = 1/focal length. So if you're shooting at 60mm, your effective focal length is 60x1.5=90mm, since your D60 has a crop factor of 1.5x. So to get clear pic you need min shutter speed of 1/90s. If you're shooting at 100mm, then min shutter speed = 1/(100x1.5) = 1/150s. How to find out the focal length? After zooming, just take a look at the marking on the zoom ring of your lens.
 

Now let's see. You were shooting your 2nd pic at 200mm. After the crop factor, your effective focal length is 300mm. Using the rule of thumb of 1/focal length, you need a shutter speed of 1/300s. With the 70-200/2.8 VR, the VR gives you more 2 stops. So you'll need a min shutter speed of 1/75s.

The exposure value of your 2nd pic is ISO1600 f/5.6 1/8s. So with the 70-200/2.8 VR, from f/5.6 to f/2.8 you gain 2 stops. Let's say you shoot at ISO1600 f/2.8. Since you gain 2 stops, the shutter speed is now 1/32s, which is still 1 stop away from the needed min shutter speed.

The above assume that the original lens you used to shoot the pic has no VR. If it has VR, then you do not gain the 2 extra stops from VR, and you're now 3 stops away from needed min shutter speed.

So as you can see, buying the 70-200/2.8 VR is not really a good solution to this problem. What is a good solution? Learn how to use flash properly. I have a friend who insist on not using flash even in poorly lit condition, "to capture the atmosphere". And so what happened? He got all blur pics while I got good ones, simply because I used flash. :bsmilie:

hi..
errr..
what u mean by "So you'll need a min shutter speed of 1/75s"??
how to get 1/75??
cuz if 70 * 1.5 will get 105..
sorry..
i dun quite understand much abt the stop that the VR system has and how it really works..
 

:bsmile: i guess if ziploc replies one more time, this thread wil become a tutorial thread.

you need to get back to basics - read some books on photography to understand the principals and terms

To start with you can visit some very informative posts on CS itself
http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/showthread.php?t=245883
http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/showthread.php?t=457991
http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/showthread.php?t=245883


http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/depth-of-field.htm
http://www.photoxels.com/tutorial_aperture.html

these should answer all your questions and make you ask even more :)

happy learning :thumbsup:
 

hi..
errr..
what u mean by "So you'll need a min shutter speed of 1/75s"??
how to get 1/75??
cuz if 70 * 1.5 will get 105..
sorry..
i dun quite understand much abt the stop that the VR system has and how it really works..

Ok, so we were saying that the pic was shot at 200mm focal length. D60 has crop factor of 1.5x, so now min shutter speed = 1/(200x1.5) = 1/300s. So far so good.

VR will let you gain 2 more stops. This means that you can shoot with a shutter speed that is 2 stops slower, as the VR mechanism will compensate for any slight movement or camera shake. So let's count stops: from 1/300s to 1/150s (multiply by 2) is gaining one stop. From 1/150s to 1/75s is another stop. That is how we get 1/75s.

For better understanding of relation between ISO, aperture and shutter speed, please take a look at this article from me (wrote long long time ago :bsmilie:). Try to understand at least from 1-9.

Cheers. :)
 

ziploc, I was about to start calculating how far from him (from 1/8s) to achieve the safe shutter speed when I read your post. Good calculations done, haha...

As a direct answer to your topic, a better choice would be a flash rather than a faster lens.
 

Heh , i asked my teacher he said he rather i get a 70-200 f:/2.8 then getting a flash ?

The statement is true only if you do outdoor shoots on a sunny day. If you do not like to use flash, you have no business shooting a DSLR indoors. Flash is not a preference. It is a necessity.

Time to fire your teacher. (hope you did not pay him any fees.)
 

Flash is not a preference. It is a necessity.

For better understanding of relation between ISO, aperture and shutter speed, please take a look at this article from me (wrote long long time ago :bsmilie:). Try to understand at least from 1-9.
Cheers. :)

David , daredevil - a quick question, slightly OT but still related to SIN :)

when i was shooting the models on stage, quite a few pics were very bright and overexposed because so many of us were using flash. Luckily i was shooting in RAW+JPEG so post processed RAW for the images that were interesting.


However, if there was no RAW, i would have had lots of spoiled pics :( how do you suggest we handle such a scenario?
 

The statement is true only if you do outdoor shoots on a sunny day. If you do not like to use flash, you have no business shooting a DSLR indoors. Flash is not a preference. It is a necessity.

Time to fire your teacher. (hope you did not pay him any fees.)

Unless you're using D3..... ;p Then it's a different story. BTW, I shoot a lot of indoor without flash using D90 as well.. So I guess it's not exactly a necessity. Depends on what you're shooting and what kind of effect you intend to get.
 

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