Which lens should I bring for D&D

[Reportage]

There we go.... a smart fellow and a real advice

I said early early already.

Since its a casual shooting, simply come earlier..look for the pro photographer who should be scouting the location...if not busy then can ask for tips. Then during the event, see what the photographer does.

Worst case scenario, Set all to Auto. better then gambling everything on manual settings especially if dont know how to take the pictures.

 

[nanasan]

TS from which company? canon?
cause i know canon D&D is approaching...

Not canon, I think many company going to have D&D this month.
Photo Grapher should be very busy this month.

 

[nanasan]

I said early early already.

Since its a casual shooting, simply come earlier..look for the pro photographer who should be scouting the location...if not busy then can ask for tips. Then during the event, see what the photographer does.

Worst case scenario, Set all to Auto. better then gambling everything on manual settings especially if dont know how to take the pictures.

Haha, good idea, I will do that! D&D is tomorrow, I have no time to borrow external flash.
So I hope the camera man can give me some tips.
Oh, who is the luck guy!:sweatsm:

 

[David Kwok]

Haha, good idea, I will do that! D&D is tomorrow, I have no time to borrow external flash.
So I hope the camera man can give me some tips.
Oh, who is the luck guy!:sweatsm:

your camera has built in flash right ? Use it lah. For diffusion, use a piece of A4 white paper, cut out a rectangular shape, use a tape stick one end to the top of the flash and another end to somewhere below the flash, forming a loop covering the flash when looking from sideway of the camera, this should give u a smoother lighting instead of a harsh one. If it's not working for you, just tear away, as simple as that. Remember to use flash compensation because you will lose some light thru the paper

 

[nIveL]

your camera has built in flash right ? Use it lah. For diffusion, use a piece of A4 white paper, cut out a rectangular shape, use a tape stick one end to the top of the flash and another end to somewhere below the flash, forming a loop covering the flash when looking from sideway of the camera, this should give u a smoother lighting instead of a harsh one. If it's not working for you, just tear away, as simple as that. Remember to use flash compensation because you will lose some light thru the paper

Wah! Refreshing idea... Thanks for sharing such a tip =) didn't know tat we can "mod" the inbuilt flash like tat. haha.

anyways, the 50mm so light and small + good to use.. jus bring along lo.. =)

 

[David Kwok]

Wah! Refreshing idea... Thanks for sharing such a tip =) didn't know tat we can "mod" the inbuilt flash like tat. haha.

anyways, the 50mm so light and small + good to use.. jus bring along lo.. =)

Well read more and surf more in the internet. There are alot of free ideas that makes photography cheaper. But if you don't like to DIY, you can always search for the ready made solution which is normally where your invisible cash get lost into

Let me share with you another. If you wanna do bounce flash using your built in flash. It's very simple too. Go and buy a small mirror, like those makeup box that girls uses ? it has a small rectangle mirror instead ? Or for guys, go to singarms at chinatown, the shop is selling army stuffs, get the camocream with a build in mirror, break the cover and extract the mirror in one piece. stick the mirror roughly 45% infront of the build in flash so that the flash will reflect upwards towards the ceiling. . Use simple tape to fasten the mirror. There you go!!! bounce flash using build in flash....
:bsmilie:

So what is stopping you from hacking your camera ? :sweat:
Do it at your own risk of course, but such are not even hacking, just innovative ideas to get cheap alternatives

 

[nIveL]

Hah, interesting interesting.. OT abit.. you have any ideas on how to customise a plastic/(any other material) for 40D's LCD screen? Something like those Snap-On plastic cover that "blocks" glaring sunrays when you try to preview the pictures after taking them.. I've thought for quite some time, but didnt make any progress..

 

[David Kwok]

Hah, interesting interesting.. OT abit.. you have any ideas on how to customise a plastic/(any other material) for 40D's LCD screen? Something like those Snap-On plastic cover that "blocks" glaring sunrays when you try to preview the pictures after taking them.. I've thought for quite some time, but didnt make any progress..

:bsmilie: My nick is not "DIY man", hence nope, I have no solution for that You just go and spend that petty $ $ for goodness sake, it's not like that piece of plastic will cost you anything more than 50 bucks. If you want a solution, I have a ugly one, go and buy the 保鲜纸 and wrap up your camera ! :bsmilie: water proof somemore.

 

[nIveL]

:bsmilie: My nick is not "DIY man", hence nope, I have no solution for that You just go and spend that petty $ $ for goodness sake, it's not like that piece of plastic will cost you anything more than 50 bucks. If you want a solution, I have a ugly one, go and buy the 保鲜纸 and wrap up your camera ! :bsmilie: water proof somemore.

LOL. i know there's alternative.. but i cant seem to find it!!! Went alot shops to find liao.. Sometimes still kanna suan by the shop ppl -.-

 

[David Kwok]

WHy did u need to customize ???? Just go to any handphone shop, search for the right size soft plastic for protection. No need to use those hard ones lah... waste money..... If you are a careful person, hardly possible to scratch ur lcd. You end up scratching your other parts of the body like the bottom of it, the lens surface easier. Only one occasion I feel LCD can be scratched is when u r hanging the strap on your neck. The lcd screen is touching your body. If you are wearing shirt with buttons or your belt have metal parts, u may scratch it. So be careful in this aspect.

 

[HTCahHTC]

sorry TS. i need to borrow your thread for a question (which i think might benefit you too).
alright, let's say 450D with kit lens.
it's always annoying to have people OOF in a group shot (assuming one in the foreground, with another two standing behind him...)
what's the suitable aperture to solve this problem? i know, f/16 will get most people sharp. but it's in low light condition. i saw a photo with f/4.5 but everyone was sharp (all standing in a line, from front to back). is this possible?

anyone? help?

 

[David Kwok]

sorry TS. i need to borrow your thread for a question (which i think might benefit you too).
alright, let's say 450D with kit lens.
it's always annoying to have people OOF in a group shot (assuming one in the foreground, with another two standing behind him...)
what's the suitable aperture to solve this problem? i know, f/16 will get most people sharp. but it's in low light condition. i saw a photo with f/4.5 but everyone was sharp (all standing in a line, from front to back). is this possible?

anyone? help?

Depends on your focal length of the lens. You can easily figure it out from here. http://www.dofmaster.com/doftable.html for your camera.

 

[loboclerk]

If you do use your 50mm, just do half-body or chest-up portraits for up to 3 ppl. Attempting any bigger group will get you leg-zooming out far far from the pretty ladies and risk many ppl blocking your shot. hehe.

 

[HTCahHTC]

Depends on your focal length of the lens. You can easily figure it out from here. http://www.dofmaster.com/doftable.html for your camera.

thanks dude. checking out now. btw, i heard that focus with be focused on the one nearer to the lens. true?

 

[Reportage]

thanks dude. checking out now. btw, i heard that focus with be focused on the one nearer to the lens. true?

Please read up on focal length as well as DOF for portraits and group shots...

F/11 will give different DOF and thus different picture compare to F/5.6 or F/22 and so on.

I think the fastest way now would be to view wedding photos guides via online videos which in a way is similar to what you will be doing tmw. Then again can just set to Auto and enjoy the DnD.

 

[HTCahHTC]

Please read up on focal length as well as DOF for portraits and group shots...

F/11 will give different DOF and thus different picture compare to F/5.6 or F/22 and so on.

I think the fastest way now would be to view wedding photos guides via online videos which in a way is similar to what you will be doing tmw. Then again can just set to Auto and enjoy the DnD.

haha. i'm not TS. i happen to have a graduation event to cover tml. btw i really don understand some things even though after reading from DOFmaster.
is it true that i focus on the background, and recompose the shot with shutter half pressed to people in the foreground, i can get everything in focus?

 

[David Kwok]

haha. i'm not TS. i happen to have a graduation event to cover tml. btw i really don understand some things even though after reading from DOFmaster.
is it true that i focus on the background, and recompose the shot with shutter half pressed to people in the foreground, i can get everything in focus?[/QUOTE

In the DOF table, where you focus determined the distance between your subject and your sensor.

The near distance from your sensor and far distance create a region of IN FOCUS.
As simple as that. So where you focus doesn't matter. The camera don't care

 

[HTCahHTC]

In the DOF table, where you focus determined the distance between your subject and your sensor.

The near distance from your sensor and far distance create a region of IN FOCUS.
As simple as that. So where you focus doesn't matter. The camera don't care [/QUOTE]

seriously, i suck at this. what if i wan everyone focused at f/5.6? what do i do? i seriously seriously don get it.

 

[David Kwok]

In the DOF table, where you focus determined the distance between your subject and your sensor.

The near distance from your sensor and far distance create a region of IN FOCUS.
As simple as that. So where you focus doesn't matter. The camera don't care

seriously, i suck at this. what if i wan everyone focused at f/5.6? what do i do? i seriously seriously don get it.[/QUOTE]

What did you don't get it ? It's not rocket science isn't it ? Of course once u do a few times, u will know roughly what f/stop to use for your aperture will get most pple in focus. When you are standing like 2m away from them. Observe the table and understand the relationship between distance from the subject, focal length and DOF. You will find a nice pattern. If you find that u can keep everyone in focus at 50mm when u are focusing a particular person. You will find that they MUST BE IN FOCUS when you zoom out to perhaps 24mm. because the DOF increase when your focal length get shorter and the distance between u and the subject maintains.

This should be what u ought to be learning, then when you get into the actual ground, u learn to make assessment fast enough so that u don't need to always refer to a chart for assistance.

 

[Reportage]

haha. i'm not TS. i happen to have a graduation event to cover tml. btw i really don understand some things even though after reading from DOFmaster.
is it true that i focus on the background, and recompose the shot with shutter half pressed to people in the foreground, i can get everything in focus?

here is a personal example.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3012/3093802516_142447492e_o.jpg
I targetted its eyes and then re-composed to add more leaves in the composition but forgot to adjust aperture or rather i forgot i left it at F/5.6 on extreme zoom. by right shouldnt be a problem, by left the subject was slightly blurred but the leaves were okay.

depending on what you want to do, can do some tricks on photoshop as well for the bokeh effect.

Normally what i would do is simply do test shots before the event...heck if your event doesnt end too late or too far away, i dont mind coming by as a secondary if you are the primary photographer since not much on tmw.

for what i said earlier,
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3125/3102995418_2a28de114b_o.jpg
soft focus. its a popular yet free method for portraits.