Which lens adapter should I choose?


I did buy it from that seller. Regarding G lenses, there is this aperture control ring on the adaptor and hence G and DX lenses can be used on it. Just 1 issue is that you can't find out what's the aperture number because it's a smooth transition from fully opened to the smallest aperture but it does the job.

Got it! I just ordered one piece last night, hope it will arrive soon, can't wait to play with my Nikkors. With the ability to control G lens apertures it opens up more avenues if I am willing to do MF - like Micro-Nikkors (2 of them G lenses), 85mm f/1.8 or 105mm f/2.5 and Sigma 10-20. Actual value, well, agak-agak ok lah. Anyway from AiS onwards the movement of aperture is linear to facilitate P and S modes, so the agak-agak method is quite ok, turn half way means the aperture has gone half way around the good old manual aperture ring. I assume the view will darken...?

What about the magnifying part, when I play with my 20mm on MF and turn the focusing ring the image get magnified. What happens with adapter and other brand lenses?

I want to buy local too, but after a few days of searching out Mass Sale I gave up. Too little info, like one doesn't even have a picture of the adapter (says photo will be uploaded soon - but I have looked into it since early 2010), another has photos but too little description, and none look like they could provide G lens aperture control. So Pegasus21 I owe you one here.

hi, i think m43 lenses already cover all the range, the ,43 lenses are not that expensive too.

Zuiko m43 lenses from 9mm-300mm
http://www.olympusimage.com.sg/products/dslr/mlenses/

Lumix lenses from 7mm-300mm, macro and FE
http://panasonic.net/avc/lumix/systemcamera/gms/lens/index.html

Indeed if one is starting out with m4/3, no reason to go adapter route unless to play with cheaper old manual lenses like OM, K, Ai, FD lenses. But for some of us we picked up m4/3 for the small rangefinder-type of camera with (approaching) DSLR-type sensor. My main rig is still Nikon-Nikkors, my GF1 is for light weight travels and not looking into buying more lenses in the very near future. Indeed I have yet to take a single photo with my 14-45 (only ones were taken when testing the camera).
 

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Got it! I just ordered one piece last night, hope it will arrive soon, can't wait to play with my Nikkors. With the ability to control G lens apertures it opens up more avenues if I am willing to do MF - like Micro-Nikkors (2 of them G lenses), 85mm f/1.8 or 105mm f/2.5 and Sigma 10-20. Actual value, well, agak-agak ok lah. Anyway from AiS onwards the movement of aperture is linear to facilitate P and S modes, so the agak-agak method is quite ok, turn half way means the aperture has gone half way around the good old manual aperture ring. I assume the view will darken...?

What about the magnifying part, when I play with my 20mm on MF and turn the focusing ring the image get magnified. What happens with adapter and other brand lenses?

Yea the live view will darken accordingly for a brief moment till the camera adjusts the exposure time (if in aperture priority).

I don't get your question about magnifying.

Anyway a tip to making the use of this adapter easier.
  • Enable MF assist and shoot without lens from the menu.
  • Use aperture priority mode
  • When focusing, you can zoom in to focus either by pressing down on the wheel that adjusts the exposure compensation or pressing the left button then the set. To zoom closer, just turn the wheel.

Glad I could help you
 

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What he meant was when using the native four third lenses that are AF capable, setting the camera to manual focus and turning the focusing ring, the screen will magnify part of the image to assist critical focusing, sadly, that feature has to be manually done when using manual lenses
 

Oh that. Yea my tips detail exactly that. Too bad the camera cannot detect anything from the lens.
 

Hi bros, I am thinking of adapter Eos to Nex to play with my EF and EFS lenses. Kindly advise.
Manual focus is not accurate and slow. Prime lens is not as slow as zoom lens. To achieve focus, LCD is an option with zooming to check. Of two or more shots, maybe one is good enough, based on estimated focusing with focusing ring on the lens or LCD display.
 

Yea the live view will darken accordingly for a brief moment till the camera adjusts the exposure time (if in aperture priority).

I don't get your question about magnifying.

Anyway a tip to making the use of this adapter easier.
  • Enable MF assist and shoot without lens from the menu.
  • Use aperture priority mode
  • When focusing, you can zoom in to focus either by pressing down on the wheel that adjusts the exposure compensation or pressing the left button then the set. To zoom closer, just turn the wheel.

Glad I could help you

Thanks for the detailed explanation. It helped me tremendously in deciding to get the adapter - the one with G lens compatibility.

And your description on manual focus is clear.

From your description, it appears the aperture control ring will allow setting of aperture to the "agak" value but allow full aperture viewing on the LCD, then on shutter release stops down the aperture ("live view will darken accordingly for a brief moment") then the aperture opens up again... is that correct? I thought I'll have to focus, select aperture (lens will close down) and take photo with the darkened LCD.

Hmmm... when the adapter arrives I will have a hands-on.

Big thank you again.
 

Let me clarify a bit.

I first described the way the aperture works in relation to a manual lens (AI and AI-S). Since you can set the aperture on the lens itself, the aperture control on the adapter will change between fully opened and the size you set on the lens. So for manual lens, you can change from fully opened when composing and stopped down to the desired aperture when taking the shot easily.

On a G or DX lens, the aperture is normally stopped down so the aperture control on the adapter will change between fully opened and closed. If you look at the aperture control notch on your lens, you'll see what I mean by this. So for this type of lenses, you have to stop down the aperture when composing.

And yes it's an approximate setting for G and DX lenses.
 

If you can afford, the better and exotic lenses are the Leicas R and M, Zeiss M and Zeiss Contax CY, G.

:thumbsup:

don't forget the voigtlanders! Much cheaper than Leica M & Zeiss M...

Nokton 35/1.4, 40/1.4, Ultron 35/1.7, 28/2 are popular lenses used on m43 too! :devil:

and of course, the Nokton 25/0.95 in m43 mount... 0.17m min focus distance, super thin dof!

the problem with using adaptor is that you lose the ability to hyperfocal so the nokton 25/0.95 in m43 mount is something special! :lovegrin:
 

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another option is the LTM lenses ... the russian made jupiter 3 50mm f1.5 is a fabulous tiny lens, its a highly regarded sonnar design and a replica of the carl zeiss sonnar! The early versions even had carl zeiss glasses on it!!!... with adaptor, should cost circa $200-250... that is, if you're ok with 50mm x 2 or you can check out other focal range LTM lenses!
 

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another option is the LTM lenses ... the russian made jupiter 3 50mm f1.5 is a fabulous tiny lens, its a highly regarded sonnar design and a replica of the carl zeiss sonnar! The early versions even had carl zeiss glasses on it!!!... with adaptor, should cost circa $200-250... that is, if you're ok with 50mm x 2 or you can check out other focal range LTM lenses!

You have gone from 5d2 to m4/3, do you feel comfortable? I am keeping my 5d and looking for an EVIL as my casual everyday camera, which one will you suggest? I prefer shooting with EVF so the NEX is out unless there is an EVF for it. I am looking at NX11, GH2, GF2 with EVF, EPL2 with EVF2, and possibly G3 as I am not in a hurry.
 

You have gone from 5d2 to m4/3, do you feel comfortable? I am keeping my 5d and looking for an EVIL as my casual everyday camera, which one will you suggest? I prefer shooting with EVF so the NEX is out unless there is an EVF for it. I am looking at NX11, GH2, GF2 with EVF, EPL2 with EVF2, and possibly G3 as I am not in a hurry.

Hi Anthony, after 5d2 I was using the GF1 briefly before deciding to switch over to EP-2 & evf2. No doubt I like the form factor of the GF1, shooting manual lenses wasn't fast, neither was it that easy, usually requiring magnification to get the focus spot on (to clarify, I did not try the panny evf, i was told its crap!)... eventually what got me to adopt EP-2 or rather olympus, was simply the efficiency I could achieve shooting manual lenses using the EVF2 - fast and accurate without having to magnify! This marks the difference between capturing that impromptu laughter or the wink of the eye ;) (well, the wink is exaggerated though...) Pixel peeping compared to 5d2 is entirely a different story, i'll not even go into that....

All that said, I'm using the EP-2 as a casual shooter since i'm mostly shooting film these days whenever possible... got a ZI, a M7, a Hexar AF and a medium format Fuji GA645i.... (too many!!!). The ZI and M7 are m mount so what I'm also achieving with the EP-2 is sharing of good glasses! Its certainly much more cost effective than acquiring a M8, much less the M9! I'm a 50mm frame shooter, the only problem with m43..... 2 x focal length ;(
 

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newghost said:
Hi Anthony, after 5d2 I was using the GF1 briefly before deciding to switch over to EP-2 & evf2. No doubt I like the form factor of the GF1, shooting manual lenses wasn't fast, neither was it that easy, usually requiring magnification to get the focus spot on (to clarify, I did not try the panny evf, i was told its crap!)... eventually what got me to adopt EP-2 or rather olympus, was simply the efficiency I could achieve shooting manual lenses using the EVF2 - fast and accurate without having to magnify! This marks the difference between capturing that impromptu laughter or the wink of the eye ;) (well, the wink is exaggerated though...) Pixel peeping compared to 5d2 is entirely a different story, i'll not even go into that....

All that said, I'm using the EP-2 as a casual shooter since i'm mostly shooting film these days whenever possible... got a ZI, a M7, a Hexar AF and a medium format Fuji GA645i.... (too many!!!). The ZI and M7 are m mount so what I'm also achieving with the EP-2 is sharing of good glasses! Its certainly much more cost effective than acquiring a M8, much less the M9! I'm a 50mm frame shooter, the only problem with m43..... 2 x focal length ;(
Thats y evil cams r called poor man leica!
2x crop sensor allow u to play CCTV lens and nokton 25/0.95 right;)
 

Hi Anthony, after 5d2 I was using the GF1 briefly before deciding to switch over to EP-2 & evf2. No doubt I like the form factor of the GF1, shooting manual lenses wasn't fast, neither was it that easy, usually requiring magnification to get the focus spot on (to clarify, I did not try the panny evf, i was told its crap!)... eventually what got me to adopt EP-2 or rather olympus, was simply the efficiency I could achieve shooting manual lenses using the EVF2 - fast and accurate without having to magnify! This marks the difference between capturing that impromptu laughter or the wink of the eye ;) (well, the wink is exaggerated though...) Pixel peeping compared to 5d2 is entirely a different story, i'll not even go into that....

All that said, I'm using the EP-2 as a casual shooter since i'm mostly shooting film these days whenever possible... got a ZI, a M7, a Hexar AF and a medium format Fuji GA645i.... (too many!!!). The ZI and M7 are m mount so what I'm also achieving with the EP-2 is sharing of good glasses! Its certainly much more cost effective than acquiring a M8, much less the M9! I'm a 50mm frame shooter, the only problem with m43..... 2 x focal length ;(

Thanks. I prefer Oly as it has IBIS also. Is the EPL2 as good as the EP2?

Film is still not only fun but also for the very serious photographers. I have a full OM SLR set-up and that's enough for me for nostalgia.
 

Yea the live view will darken accordingly for a brief moment till the camera adjusts the exposure time (if in aperture priority).

I don't get your question about magnifying.

Anyway a tip to making the use of this adapter easier.
  • Enable MF assist and shoot without lens from the menu.
  • Use aperture priority mode
  • When focusing, you can zoom in to focus either by pressing down on the wheel that adjusts the exposure compensation or pressing the left button then the set. To zoom closer, just turn the wheel.

Glad I could help you

Received my adapter from HK today, in the mail.

Well made little fellow, no rough edges. The Lock-Open ring is a neat device, essentially doing the aperture stop down lever's job on the SLR (let's it stop down). Allows me to use AF or AFD lenses without moving the aperture from minimum, if I so wish. And allows for use G lenses as well. Agak agak aperture works fine for me.

And the above instruction was really good, beats reading the manual (IMHO worst ever written).

Lumix_GF1_Nikkor_50f1_4_.jpg


With a Nippon Kogaku 50mm f/1.4 circa 1965 or earlier, sort of old world charm, isn't it?

Lumix_GF1_Nikkor_50f1_4_f2_AperP.jpg


And my daughter's favourite teddy bear, Lumix GF1, Nippon Kogaku Nikkor-S 50mm f/1.4 at f/2, aperture priority. ISO 400.

And now I have (almost) endless lenses to play with, from Micro-Nikkors to behemoth like the AFD 80-200mm f/2.8, absolutely dwarfs the GF1. Yippee!
 

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u use a afd 80-200 f2.8 for a gf1...? haha.. wonder how it looks like.. is it hard to MF?use LVF?
 

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No, haven't done the 80-200 thing yet, but I reckon it will need a tripod for stability, afterall it is 400 mm f/2.8 effective! Wow. Slap a 2x and I'll have 800mm f/5.6! Man, this is exciting!

Focusing using Live View/LCD, I don't have the EVF.
 

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LOL good to see you've received it and love it. Enjoy your new found toy. :)
 

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