What Made you choose the Panasonic GF1 or Olympus Pen?


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So if you had flipped the other side of a negative roll, would it be "positive" then? :bsmilie:

And if he was eating goreng pisang and the roll slipped from his hands, it would have been a "color slide"... :sticktong
 

Actually my friend, it is kinda tough not to make comparisons why I bought one over another. At first I wanted to get a GF1, but till today, I could not find one image that can compel me to buy it. Like might86mare recently (and wittily) said, "a picture says a thousand words" and I have given thousands' worth... yet when I was using the other G-series, I cannot feel but frustrated why the image details are not there, or colors that keep me up all night to fix. Maybe I am just fussy, but then again, it is just me.

Sorry that I have to end up writing mini thesis in your thread. But I do hope I shed some light to those who wants to pick up photography, and even to those few who just want to buy gadgets.
No worries pal, anyone is free to write in this thread. You give good reviews, and we all appreciate that. *Kudos* to you my friend :)

Well, it's hard not to compare, but it can be done. :bsmilie: Just and honest answer will do. Something like what you have given to this forum.
 

My reason is simple : Love at first sight. You can ask drakon09 when we were at the E-P1 launch... I was so excited.

Then logic took over... check list came in :
(1) Can I use my existing lenses and maybe, just maybe, have the same functionality? And yes, MMF-1 proved to be a dream come through.
(2) What about other peripherals? And thankfully another yes... hotshoe flash on the E-P1 did not feature anything funky. All FLs can be used.
(3) Then it was the card slot... SDHC or XD (horror)... whew... SDHC. I already had a 16GB card for another compact camera for family.
(4) What new technology? HD720p recording for video, wow. That is what I missed from the Panasonic LX3. (I am a big LX3 fan).

Then came the good news. Truepic5 engine improvements as I spoke to the Jap engineer blew me away... probably because I can relate to the Truepic engine capabilities so that was the deal breaker. So everything was good.

- - -

GF1. Played with it in HK before it arrived in Singapore in September. Granted I still contemplate till recently. But with E-P2... no brainer liao for me. But once again I have to say this... for the begineer, especially those who are upgrading from PnS cameras... Panasonic's GUI is excellent and the iAuto makes it a joy to use for non photographers. So this must be the ultimate amateur camera. One that I will consider for the family, until E-P2 iAuto+iEnhance broke the deal. Nevertheless Panasonic still have its strength.
 

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And if he was eating goreng pisang and the roll slipped from his hands, it would have been a "color slide"... :sticktong
Haha, yeah... what if it was doughnuts? Will it give a "Pin hole" effect? Haha..:bsmilie:
 

after reading through 6 pages, I still cant decide to get GF1 or EP2! :eek:

If i wan to shoot streets and RF style, prolly flash not required and I would choose EP2. This is related to my lomo experience whereby I seldom use flash when shooting with my LCA+.

If I want to use it as a lightweight overseas travel and everyday cam, I would need the flash and I am inclined towards GF1!

*decisions decisions* :confused:
 

When using head, both GF1 and EP1 are equal, and then I add my heart in...I bought EP1.:)
 

after reading through 6 pages, I still cant decide to get GF1 or EP2! :eek:

If i wan to shoot streets and RF style, prolly flash not required and I would choose EP2. This is related to my lomo experience whereby I seldom use flash when shooting with my LCA+.

If I want to use it as a lightweight overseas travel and everyday cam, I would need the flash and I am inclined towards GF1!

*decisions decisions* :confused:
I'm buying either one soon. Lets make a deal. We buy both the cameras. Then we switch as & when. Haha..:)
 

after reading through 6 pages, I still cant decide to get GF1 or EP2! :eek:

If i wan to shoot streets and RF style, prolly flash not required and I would choose EP2. This is related to my lomo experience whereby I seldom use flash when shooting with my LCA+.

If I want to use it as a lightweight overseas travel and everyday cam, I would need the flash and I am inclined towards GF1!

*decisions decisions* :confused:

The IBIS on EP-2 is invaluable. You will need it. The low light performance is quite good as seen from microcosm sample pic. If you really need more light buy an external better flash. The Jpeg IQ is definitely alot better on the EP-1/2 as seen from all the pic taken from our bro in the gallery thread. You can go have a look.
 

When using head, both GF1 and EP1 are equal, and then I add my heart in...I bought EP1.:)
Owned! 2009 Thread award for the best honest answer so far. I like it. :bsmilie:
 

The IBIS on EP-2 is invaluable. You will need it. The low light performance is quite good as seen from microcosm sample pic. If you really need more light buy an external better flash. The Jpeg IQ is definitely alot better on the EP-1/2 as seen from all the pic taken from our bro in the gallery thread. You can go have a look.
If i needed low light photography, i'd rather use my DSLR. What we need to understand that m4/3 are fun cameras. Not for you to get all serious and complain about how the pictures turn out. Just have fun with it.

It's like having a chance to use the modern day rangefinder.
 

I'm buying either one soon. Lets make a deal. We buy both the cameras. Then we switch as & when. Haha..:)

haha...but EP2 not in store yet...u buy the GF1 first ok? :embrass:
 

That's a good one.



That is valid as well. For the concept behind m43 is "travel light" and fixing an external flash would be "travel not so light". Do you have a picture to share as an example of usability of the GF1 flash for reference?

Don't laugh but I don't know how to post photos online. But I can try to descibe.

There is this guy in Clarke Quay selling ice cream. A real character, expressive face. The stall lighting was too flat and he is usually moving too fast. Through the bunch of people surrounding his stall, the fill flash was just right to add some contrast, moderate and not overpower/bleach out the yellow tint to retain the atmosphere, catchlight in the eye and stopping some motion.

Without the flash, the picture would be flat, while an add-on flash may look intimidating. With the built-in flash, no one notices the GF1.

With DSLRs you still get very good pictures up to 3200, but with the MFT cameras, 800 is about max if one wants to minimise noise. You may not need flash for most DSLRs but MFT without built-in flash limits its useability.
 

The IBIS on EP-2 is invaluable. You will need it. The low light performance is quite good as seen from microcosm sample pic. If you really need more light buy an external better flash. The Jpeg IQ is definitely alot better on the EP-1/2 as seen from all the pic taken from our bro in the gallery thread. You can go have a look.

thanks bro...did some fiddling with the EP2 at the Oly preview at Funan TCC some weeks back...quite happy with it...but y is Olympus SG taking so looooooonnnngggg to put it in the retail channels? ;(
 

haha...but EP2 not in store yet...u buy the GF1 first ok? :embrass:
Haha...Nooooo!!!! I want to buy PEN!!! Haha.. :bsmilie:

It should be out in stores already. I can wait. Intending this as year end present. I'm going to go to the shop at 11.59 pm and buy it. Haha.....
 

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Don't laugh but I don't know how to post photos online. But I can try to descibe.

There is this guy in Clarke Quay selling ice cream. A real character, expressive face. The stall lighting was too flat and he is usually moving too fast. Through the bunch of people surrounding his stall, the fill flash was just right to add some contrast, moderate and not overpower/bleach out the yellow tint to retain the atmosphere, catchlight in the eye and stopping some motion.

Without the flash, the picture would be flat, while an add-on flash may look intimidating. With the built-in flash, no one notices the GF1.

With DSLRs you still get very good pictures up to 3200, but with the MFT cameras, 800 is about max if one wants to minimise noise. You may not need flash for most DSLRs but MFT without built-in flash limits its useability.
Sure? I use DSLRs, with no flash. And the most i use my iso is up to 400 only. And i can still take decent pics. It's your timeing and how you plan to the situation. Nature has many things that you can use to make good pics.
 

Don't laugh but I don't know how to post photos online. But I can try to descibe.

There is this guy in Clarke Quay selling ice cream. A real character, expressive face. The stall lighting was too flat and he is usually moving too fast. Through the bunch of people surrounding his stall, the fill flash was just right to add some contrast, moderate and not overpower/bleach out the yellow tint to retain the atmosphere, catchlight in the eye and stopping some motion.

Without the flash, the picture would be flat, while an add-on flash may look intimidating. With the built-in flash, no one notices the GF1.

With DSLRs you still get very good pictures up to 3200, but with the MFT cameras, 800 is about max if one wants to minimise noise. You may not need flash for most DSLRs but MFT without built-in flash limits its useability.

ISO800, close range. Makes sense. But wouldn't that light be harsh? Just curious. I cannot imagine direct flash not being harsh. But it has its use too. I use a snoot on my flash for that purpose.
 

thanks bro...did some fiddling with the EP2 at the Oly preview at Funan TCC some weeks back...quite happy with it...but y is Olympus SG taking so looooooonnnngggg to put it in the retail channels? ;(
Need to find microcosm. Haha...
 

ISO800, close range. Makes sense. But wouldn't that light be harsh? Just curious. I cannot imagine direct flash not being harsh. But it has its use too. I use a snoot on my flash for that purpose.
Straight flash is always harsh. I hate it when i use my PNS and the flash shoots, because i forgot to turn it off.

But flash is useful when there's a bright light behind your subject.
 

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