I have learnt much from all the posts. But, you guys reply a little bit late. I have already bought a stofen omnibounce to shoot outdoors for it is more convenient to carry, and intended to use the Gary Fong LSII for indoors shooting. But now, you said, it is almost useless to use the omnibounce outdoors.
what is the difference between Gary Fong's Lightsphere and Stofen Omnibounce
- Thread starter freecloud
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So bounce flash may not be applicable everytime afterall. Say for example, the ceiling has reflective metal like lightings, mirrors, NON-WHITE ceilings???
Wow, quite troublesome . Means I will need to have both all the time and see which can be used:
1. Bounce flash
2. Non-bounce flash like Softbox
Questions:
1. What if the ceiling is really too high to bounce flash? (like in a ballroom of hotel)
2. Small Flash white card is able to bounce off adequately for shooting say at the wedding table?
Thanks
Wow, quite troublesome . Means I will need to have both all the time and see which can be used:
1. Bounce flash
2. Non-bounce flash like Softbox
Questions:
1. What if the ceiling is really too high to bounce flash? (like in a ballroom of hotel)
2. Small Flash white card is able to bounce off adequately for shooting say at the wedding table?
Thanks
lsisaxon said:
txv611 said:
Try out this white card with larger surface area - at least it serves me well
http://forums.clubsnap.org/showthread.php?t=146523
drumma said:
i got from east gear, its called minisoftbox. it capped da ext flash like omni bounce do, but one of its side has a reflective silver surface supposedly to direct the flash infront. da material is made of what the soft box used kind of ?satin or soft cloth... not sure what it's called.
its rather inexpensive but donno what its real avantages are.
yehosaphat
Senior Member
Hi all, am quite new to flash photography... and after reading this post, guess have gleaned much from it ;p but a few qns here which i hope you guys can advise:
I tend to shoot more in indoors environment and own a stofen omnibounce.
1) Has anyone compared the difference in the effect using the omnibounce compared to a bounce card? Assuming ceiling is low enough for bounce flash, which will produce a nicer picture?
2) When using a omnibounce, do you bounce off the ceiling or do you point it directly to your subject. If both mode can be used, when to use which mode.
3) You won't be able to bounce flash from the ceiling if it is too high... how high is too high??
Thanks man!
I tend to shoot more in indoors environment and own a stofen omnibounce.
1) Has anyone compared the difference in the effect using the omnibounce compared to a bounce card? Assuming ceiling is low enough for bounce flash, which will produce a nicer picture?
2) When using a omnibounce, do you bounce off the ceiling or do you point it directly to your subject. If both mode can be used, when to use which mode.
3) You won't be able to bounce flash from the ceiling if it is too high... how high is too high??
Thanks man!
wan said:
Used the minisoftbox before. Result is pretty similar to normal diffuser/omnibounce but i find it quite hard to put onto the flash head single-handedly due to the material it is made of, especially in occations like wedding when u need to act fast (unless you never take down once you put it on). In the end, i got another diffuser/softbox from PPCP: http://perfectpixelcameraparts.com/nikon.htm (6th item).
Something that is puzzling me: Omnibounce is just made of plastic. I am always wondering why Stofen sells it at such a high price
cheersjy said:Try out this white card with larger surface area - at least it serves me well
http://forums.clubsnap.org/showthread.php?t=146523
Bought this yesterday at TK Photo
freecloud said:
Yes it's gd! Bought at $18.
Too bad i didn't have this earlier on cos last saturday i took a wedding and some shots were taken using my omnibounce especially the table shots. The result?? Some were a bit underexposed even when my flash exposure confirmation light on my 420EX is lit up. I didn't tilt the flash head, all were direct.
Hi all, am quite new to flash photography... and after reading this post, guess have gleaned much from it ;p but a few qns here which i hope you guys can advise:
I tend to shoot more in indoors environment and own a stofen omnibounce.
1) Has anyone compared the difference in the effect using the omnibounce compared to a bounce card? Assuming ceiling is low enough for bounce flash, which will produce a nicer picture?
If ceiling is low enough, I don't see the need to use an omnibounce or bounce card, just point your flash head up to the ceiling. It produces a very even and nice lighting to your subjects.
2) When using a omnibounce, do you bounce off the ceiling or do you point it directly to your subject. If both mode can be used, when to use which mode.
It all depends on whether you are shooting film or digital. For film, I have no problems pointing directly at my subjects. For digital, it helps to point 45 or 60 degrees up, so u don't "burn" your subjects. As mentioned above in Qn 1, there is no need to use an omnibounce if ceiling is low.
3) You won't be able to bounce flash from the ceiling if it is too high... how high is too high??
If ceiling is high, the bottom half of your subjects can get underexposed, so there's no point using an omnibounce! Omnibounce actually reduces flash power by 1 f-stop (if I remember correctly). Using a bounce card works for me in such situations. As for the height, there's really no hard and fast rule on a distinction between high vs low. It all depends on the GN of your flash, flash compensation etc. You will have a better idea with trial and error...all comes with experience
Thanks man!
I tend to shoot more in indoors environment and own a stofen omnibounce.
1) Has anyone compared the difference in the effect using the omnibounce compared to a bounce card? Assuming ceiling is low enough for bounce flash, which will produce a nicer picture?
If ceiling is low enough, I don't see the need to use an omnibounce or bounce card, just point your flash head up to the ceiling. It produces a very even and nice lighting to your subjects.
2) When using a omnibounce, do you bounce off the ceiling or do you point it directly to your subject. If both mode can be used, when to use which mode.
It all depends on whether you are shooting film or digital. For film, I have no problems pointing directly at my subjects. For digital, it helps to point 45 or 60 degrees up, so u don't "burn" your subjects. As mentioned above in Qn 1, there is no need to use an omnibounce if ceiling is low.
3) You won't be able to bounce flash from the ceiling if it is too high... how high is too high??
If ceiling is high, the bottom half of your subjects can get underexposed, so there's no point using an omnibounce! Omnibounce actually reduces flash power by 1 f-stop (if I remember correctly). Using a bounce card works for me in such situations. As for the height, there's really no hard and fast rule on a distinction between high vs low. It all depends on the GN of your flash, flash compensation etc. You will have a better idea with trial and error...all comes with experience
Thanks man!
JSII works great. just too bulky to carry around. if you compare shots taken using bounce card, omnibounce and LS, i bet you won be able to tell much difference, the LS's strength is shooting at protrait format! bounce card a bit tough in that orientation
omnibounce and LS has the same problem, lights get spilled to the rear of the camera which is wasted. can solve by covering the inside w white card to ger more light back. this where LS is easier to manage as to omnibounce.
but if you are shooting only landsacpe format, use the bounce card in the flash( e.g SB800). the results are the same.
omnibounce and LS has the same problem, lights get spilled to the rear of the camera which is wasted. can solve by covering the inside w white card to ger more light back. this where LS is easier to manage as to omnibounce.
but if you are shooting only landsacpe format, use the bounce card in the flash( e.g SB800). the results are the same.
Cheesecake
Senior Member
halo all photographers...(who loves flash photography esp. in the night and in the open!!)catchlights said:
if u haven't got the LS PJII, i advise u to get one. it is the best light diffuser i've ever owned on a flashgun and that is quite a fair bit(lumiquest pocket bounce, Omnibounce, bounce card...etc.etc!) in my endless search for the most ideal light diffuser.
i agree with catchlights and what he has said. i've been using the LS ever since its first product. i ordered one in an M.O conducted by Weekh and i never look back. i preach abt the LS PJII to anyone who loves night flash photography be it in the open or indoors and is open to advise and suggestions.
the LS PJII is a much better product in my honest opinion than the first version for outdoor photography. in studio or indoor(say a flat...) or for Portraiture, i'll pop in the original LS.
u may have all kinds of gadgets and assessories, but not knowing how to use them is akin to waste. u might need some getting used to in terms of using LS PJII. there's no instant cure for flash photography but trust me, this is as close as it gets.
here are some examples of a fun outing with my colleagues. i'll remove them in a few days' time.
all photos are in low-resolution for ur viewing pleasure.
REMOVED.
all in all, i can't believe anyone who argued that the LS PJII is crap and lousy. well, it doesn't look this way when i look at my photos. it jus make ur night outing with ur friends, loved ones.. much more memorable and much more treasured.
bulky? yes. but its PLASTIC and it ain't even heavy! haha
my LS PJII is modified to suit my taste.
Gary Fong's LS PJII, man, what an invention! S$89/. well spent.:thumbsup:
by the way, omnibounce or whatever u call that, it comes with my SB800, has been left in the box and never used once i got my LS.
the next Gary Fong's, i'll buy for sure. i trust that guy because he knows what he's talking about and what he's up to.
yehosaphat
Senior Member
vivientan said:Hi all, am quite new to flash photography... and after reading this post, guess have gleaned much from it ;p but a few qns here which i hope you guys can advise:
I tend to shoot more in indoors environment and own a stofen omnibounce.
1) Has anyone compared the difference in the effect using the omnibounce compared to a bounce card? Assuming ceiling is low enough for bounce flash, which will produce a nicer picture?
If ceiling is low enough, I don't see the need to use an omnibounce or bounce card, just point your flash head up to the ceiling. It produces a very even and nice lighting to your subjects.
2) When using a omnibounce, do you bounce off the ceiling or do you point it directly to your subject. If both mode can be used, when to use which mode.
It all depends on whether you are shooting film or digital. For film, I have no problems pointing directly at my subjects. For digital, it helps to point 45 or 60 degrees up, so u don't "burn" your subjects. As mentioned above in Qn 1, there is no need to use an omnibounce if ceiling is low.
3) You won't be able to bounce flash from the ceiling if it is too high... how high is too high??
If ceiling is high, the bottom half of your subjects can get underexposed, so there's no point using an omnibounce! Omnibounce actually reduces flash power by 1 f-stop (if I remember correctly). Using a bounce card works for me in such situations. As for the height, there's really no hard and fast rule on a distinction between high vs low. It all depends on the GN of your flash, flash compensation etc. You will have a better idea with trial and error...all comes with experience
Thanks man!
Thanks for the advises!
So...
1) use omnibounce when ceiling is not too high and you want light to be diffused
2) use bounce card when celing too high ?
Do you point 45 degrees using bounce card or vertically up?
yehosaphat said:
I normally play by ear, depending on situation. I've tried both omnibounce and bounce card with high ceilings. Somehow the bounce card gives me a more diffused and soft lighting compared to omni. Omni can still be harsh on subjects depending on situation.
As for the angle and tilting of flash head, it depends on some factors like ht of ceiling, distance to subjects etc. As a general rule of thumb, I point vertically up when I'm close to subjects and 60 or 45 degrees if I had to shoot from a further distance.
Flash is an area of photography which is difficult to master, something I'm still struggling to improve on! Need to shoot, shoot and shoot! Many factors come into play...ambient light, exposure settings, flash used blah blah blah. It will only get better with experience
The effect is different.vivientan said:
You don't burn your subjects at straight, but flash only illuminates the subjects not the background, so tilting and bouncing off the ceiling serves two purposes, soften lighting + throws a bit of light to the back as well. Unless you feel like shooting at wide open + slow shutter to compensate ambient lighting.vivientan said:
Not really true, omnibounce distributes the flash from a lot of angles.vivientan said:If ceiling is high, the bottom half of your subjects can get underexposed, so there's no point using an omnibounce! Omnibounce actually reduces flash power by 1 f-stop (if I remember correctly). Using a bounce card works for me in such situations. As for the height, there's really no hard and fast rule on a distinction between high vs low. It all depends on the GN of your flash, flash compensation etc. You will have a better idea with trial and error...all comes with experience
*Image copyright of azone@clubsnap
It really depends on what you want to capture and how you use the tools, light travels in a straight light, but the omnibounce distributes it (aka softens).
I use the LS (oldest version, MO by weekh last time) and I too think it's the best diffuser I tried, especially in totally no bounce situations like outdoors or very high ceilings. I feel that the omnibounce doesn't really work well, even the bounce card does better in most situations. Many times I even see photographers use the omnibounce shooting walkways with the flash head directly pointed at the models. I not sure wha'ts the point of even having in on in this case. Of course the trade off is that the LS is expensive (almost everything in photography is anyway) and bulky.
Hmm.. quite uncomfortable with the last diagram.. hope someone can prove me wrong.. but in the diagram above, there is no difference with using direct flash..espn said:Not really true, omnibounce distributes the flash from a lot of angles.
*Image copyright of azone@clubsnap
It really depends on what you want to capture and how you use the tools, light travels in a straight light, but the omnibounce distributes it (aka softens).
Yes, it is not correct, omnibounce, it means lights bounce from all direction (Omni direction), including behind the flash/camera, the LS also work in the same principle, but with bigger diffuser.willyfoo said:
The front of the subject will received the most of direct light from the flash and some diffuser flash light bounce off the ceiling and walls, the side, and other area of the subject will received most of the diffuser flash bounce off the ceiling and walls, hence that where the softness come from.
If anyone can understand this, he/she will understand why omnibounce don't work well in open areas (bounce card works better in open area than omnibounce) and why LS is better then omnibounce.
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