using the Zone System for roll film

[alexlowyh]

I have some question regarding the use of the Zone System by Ansel Adams with regards to modern day application, such as a 120 Colour roll film.

I understand back in the days, the ZS was used mainly with Sheet films where we can develop each sheet of film according to the how we apply the ZS to a particular scene.

In today's use, if I were to use it on a colour roll film and I were to meter a particular scene where I place the shadows that I want to show details at Zone III and in another different scene, I again meter the shadows that i want details at Zone III as well, would I still be getting the same results when I send the film out for development, as long as I keep all the exposures of the scene within a 5 tonal range ? example zone III to VII (with the use of GND etcs)

I will be using a 1degree spot meter to apply this technique

I hope I explained the questions in a way that is understandable..

Cheers,
Alex

 

[catchlights]

Zone system is not just the metering and exposure part only.
you need to run processing and printing test on determine what is the effective ISO of your film,
and use that ISO to meter your scene, so when you place your place your exposure value on the highlight, mid tone and shadow areas, you will able to produce the tonal range you want on film and prints......


if you adapt it to color print film.
since you don't do your own processing and printing, and you can't control the outcome to be very consistent, is it pretty useless.


so it is more possible to do it on slide film, and you will need to shoot some test rolls with color charts, find out what is the effective film speed on the particular film you will be use base on your lab processing results, and stick to the same lab, and pray they will be consistent on they processing results.

 

[lkkang]

yes.. you are very correct...
a spot on ZONE 3 should appear very dark ( but still can see very slight detail ).

If you are shooting in the early morning, ZONE 3 should be something like 1 min exposure.
On a sunny afternoon, ZONE 3 should be like 1/30sec

But, when you are looking at the film, both spots should appear same darkness ( ZONE 3 darkness ).

Billy

I have some question regarding the use of the Zone System by Ansel Adams with regards to modern day application, such as a 120 Colour roll film.

I understand back in the days, the ZS was used mainly with Sheet films where we can develop each sheet of film according to the how we apply the ZS to a particular scene.

In today's use, if I were to use it on a colour roll film and I were to meter a particular scene where I place the shadows that I want to show details at Zone III and in another different scene, I again meter the shadows that i want details at Zone III as well, would I still be getting the same results when I send the film out for development, as long as I keep all the exposures of the scene within a 5 tonal range ? example zone III to VII (with the use of GND etcs)

I will be using a 1degree spot meter to apply this technique

I hope I explained the questions in a way that is understandable..

Cheers,
Alex

 

[lkkang]

forgot to mention.

ZONE system has nothing to do with type of medium used.
being sheet film, roll film or even digital ... all can apply zone metering.

 

[alexlowyh]

cheers for the reply, so basically applying the zone system in my situation where I don't do my own developing is pretty useless ?? I should just just expose for the shadows when shooting with color negative film ?

 

[catchlights]

cheers for the reply, so basically applying the zone system in my situation where I don't do my own developing is pretty useless ?? I should just just expose for the shadows when shooting with color negative film ?

what I'm saying is you can place whatever whichever areas as zone V, important highlight area as zone VII or VIII, important shadow area in zone II or zone III, but it maybe or may not printed as what you expected.

 

[lualua]

cheers for the reply, so basically applying the zone system in my situation where I don't do my own developing is pretty useless ?? I should just just expose for the shadows when shooting with color negative film ?

Hi,

using roll film and doing standard processing at a lab makes applying ZS difficult. The strength of ZS lies in the fact that u can expand or contract the dynamic range of the scene recorded on the negative, hence producing a "perfect" negative. Under your circumstances, a good understanding of the ZS concept allows you to confirm the zonal range of the scene and from there, u can decide on placing the zones like what Catchlights have mentioned.

However, I would like to correct you on 1 point : if you expose for the shadows and develop normally at a lab, the negative will turn up overexposed. When AA mentioned "expose for the shadows", I'm pretty sure he also followed up with "develop for the highlights". That simply means a minus(-) development. In a way, it helps to increase the zonal range of the negative. Conversely, if you expose for the highlights and develop for the shadows( plus development), you are contracting the zonal range of the negative(helps to increase contrast for an otherwise flat scene).

 

[oceanpriest]

when shooting b&w film, you control contrast by expansion (n+1) and contraction (n-1), depending on the scene (high contrast/low contrast)
when shooting color film, please remember that contrast is also determined by how you choose the color, i.e complementary color next to each other will give you more contrast

you can read this book for more information on 35mm, but the latest chapter on color film doesn't give much information too...
Amazon.com: The Zone System for 35MM Photographers: A Basic Guide to Exposure Control (9780240802039): Carson Graves: Books

 

[monty]

Just saw this video about metering, hope it is relavent.
A Tale of Two Meters on Vimeo