Users of nikon 24-70 f2.8 on D7000 / cropped body


Just get the 24-70. It's both useful range for DX and FX shooters. For most event, street shots and portraits I use it on my D300 to get the 36-105. When the situation gets tighter, I swith with my D700. I find out that the bokeh is much more creamer at 105 wide open than at 70 on FX.

On your case, I guess since you have the 18-200, when the situation gets tighter, just swith to it. But anyway, that's just my photography style cause frankly speaking, the 24-70 is the only mid-zoom lens that I will ever use. I don't know how to explain but it's just difficult to get a bad photo out from it. Go figure..
 

In the end, you have to make the decision based on focal length you need. If you need wider you need wider. If you don't then you don't. The rest of the stuff you consider later.
 

Had the 24-70 f2.8 paired with D60 for 3 years. Very good multipurpose lens; sharp & bright. Con = lens is heavy, so only used during important occasions.
Now that FX lens is nicely paired with a D800, and D60 is back with the kit lens.
 

Update: Purchased tokina 11-16 and tamron 28-75, due to budget constraints. Not used to not having image stablization on lenses i.e. the tamron 28-75, resulted in blur photos due to camera shake, used shutter speed 1/200 at least as suggested by 1 bro in manual mode, auto-iso, and adjusted aperture as needed. very happy with the lens, super sharp even at 2.8. I think I'll sell off the 18-300 and get a 70-200 2.8, sigma (OS) or nikon (VR).
 

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Update: Purchased tokina 11-16 and tamron 28-75, due to budget constraints. Not used to not having image stablization on lenses i.e. the tamron 28-75, resulted in blur photos due to camera shake, used shutter speed 1/200 at least as suggested by 1 bro in manual mode, auto-iso, and adjusted aperture as needed. very happy with the lens, super sharp even at 2.8. I think I'll sell off the 18-300 and get a 70-200 2.8, sigma (OS) or nikon (VR).

If you are using auto-iso, why are you using manual mode with shutter speed set at 1/200? actually to prevent camera shake, you should use 1/focal-length with crop factored in. So if you are shooting at 28mm, you should be shooting at a minimum 1/42s

Time to brush up on your handholding skills... This might help you...

[video=youtube;EDsx3-FWfwk]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EDsx3-FWfwk[/video]
 

Thank you for the video. It is very helpful, realize I'm not holding it steady. I'm using manual mode because i rather the camera change the ISO sensitivity first rather than aperture/shutter speed? if ISO sensitivity doesn't suit the situation, then I will adjust the aperture/shutter speed manually? A bro suggested 1/200. I use manual mode, and set to 1/200 or 1/160 (most of the time), aperture 2.8 for portraits or stop down for group photos. Sometimes I use auto-ISO, max ISO at 1600, because the max-ISO can only be set at either 1600 or 3200, and I don't want to use 3200(i.e. rather reduce shutter speed than to use 3200). Sometimes I use manual-ISO (in lower light conditions), test at lower ISO, and adjust accordingly up to 2000, 2500. I use manual mode because I want to fix the shutter speed to 1/160 and aperture to 2.8. Want to fix the shutter speed because not very experienced, so always forget to change shutter speed, e.g. shoot group photo at 28mm, then zoom to 75mm to take portrait but forget to increase shutter speed. Aperture I fix to 2.8 and stop down if taking group photos.

Appreciate your advice as I'm still a beginner learner.
 

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Personally I use the 24-70mm on a D300s, and it feels good. You should really go down to the shop and try it for yourself, if it feels good to you, buy it down (:
And a plus point is that you're future proof-ing yourself, in the event where you intend to upgrade to D800/D4 (FX Sector).
 

Thank you for the video. It is very helpful, realize I'm not holding it steady. I'm using manual mode because i rather the camera change the ISO sensitivity first rather than aperture/shutter speed? if ISO sensitivity doesn't suit the situation, then I will adjust the aperture/shutter speed manually? A bro suggested 1/200. I use manual mode, and set to 1/200 or 1/160 (most of the time), aperture 2.8 for portraits or stop down for group photos. Sometimes I use auto-ISO, max ISO at 1600, because the max-ISO can only be set at either 1600 or 3200, and I don't want to use 3200(i.e. rather reduce shutter speed than to use 3200). Sometimes I use manual-ISO (in lower light conditions), test at lower ISO, and adjust accordingly up to 2000, 2500. I use manual mode because I want to fix the shutter speed to 1/160 and aperture to 2.8. Want to fix the shutter speed because not very experienced, so always forget to change shutter speed, e.g. shoot group photo at 28mm, then zoom to 75mm to take portrait but forget to increase shutter speed. Aperture I fix to 2.8 and stop down if taking group photos.

Appreciate your advice as I'm still a beginner learner.

You are reinventing the wheel and making things a lot more difficult for yourself.

Why don't you use A mode, and turn on auto ISO, and set minimum shutter speed at 1/160 (or whatever speed you want) and max ISO at 1600. So your aperture is always fixed, so you have full control of DoF. The camera will up or down ISO to maintain the 1/160 shutter speed. Only time it will go below 1/160 is when it hit max ISO and shutter speed drops, in that case, you can just up your ISO manually. So if most of the time the ISO required is less than 1600, you never had to touch your settings.
 

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Most people don't use a 24-70 on a d7000 (dx camera) because the lens is really expensive. If not they probably will buy a FF eg. D700 or better in the very first place (price sensitive).

Then for people who knows better.. 24-70 is not really wide for crop and it's really heavy on the front as well. As compared if u were to pair it on a FF body. So there are even more things to consider besides money now. However, the 24-70 optic is very good though. But if it works for u. Go ahead u will be happy.
 

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