yep, a faster lens means a brighter viewfinder this same lights hits the af sensors thus better and faster af...
Jed said:Good grief. Did I not anticipate this? Did I not state that I was posting in a personal capacity and not as a moderator, and also stress that CK and Ian were probably doing so in the same fashion? Did I not also state that this was specifically to pre-empt somebody coming out to criticise CK, Ian and, because I didn't know better and to just shut up instead of trying to play mediator, myself as well?
The best part of it all was, I read your post originally, thought it was brilliant, and thought about using it as an example to highlight to Clive exactly what a helpful response yours was, and one that wouldn't elicit sarcastic etc responses from people, be they moderators or not. And then an hour later you go and amend the post to include this little gem of a personal observation. And let me guess, you're probably going to give feedback about this post too. But before you do that, just take it as my feedback to you.
Also, explain to me how I was sarcastic and stinging in my original response? Or did you exercise your own little bit of lack of tact in making a sweeping statement about the moderators in this thread? I'm not even sure CK doesn't have good reason to feel hard done as well.
Ian said:Your observation is generally correct for short focal length lenses, however with large fast glass it's an entirely different kettle of fish as long fast glass (300/2.8 and longer/faster) is optimised for maximum performance wide open.
In the case of most 600mm and longer professional grade primes the image quality degrades once you stop the lens down more than one stop.
At no point in the original post was any reference made to lenses being of the same 'series' or an equivalent series.
Lens performance between slower and faster glass doesn't actually equate to equal performance when stopped down, as the use of different optical designs has a major influence on how well a lens performs.
Firstly let me stress my posts were not in my capacity as a moderator (see Nikon forum for examples of 'in moderator mode' .. and I stand by what I say that fast glass is not always good glass and that Clives comment is and was pure bollocks for that very reason alone.
Secondly I should at this point out that I own and use a massive collection of very fast lenses in focal lengths ranging from 6mm f2.8 to 800mm f5.6 (primes mostly but including a full set of f2.8 zooms)
Finally wide open doesn't equate to decent performance especially where light fall off and corner illumination are concerned. If however you are shooting on an APS sized DSLR sensor like Jed does this loss of performance is less of a problem than if shooting on film.
Sorry to burst your bubble, but if you aren't composing and focusing when using an ND or PL with the lens stopped down to the desired working aperture then you will have no chance of ever making great landscape photographs. This is one of the first things you learn (usually the hard way) when you take landscape shots for publication and or profit and is one of the fundamentals of using any filter except colour conversion and correction filters.
In general terms for landscape work stop down to f11~f16 (135 format) to obtain maximum DOF and in 8x10 format you should be shooting at around f64 (yes you read right, f64).
Finally, why you should focus at your chosen aperture. With the lens stopped down you get to see what is actually going to happen with a filter, where the exact region of focus lies etc, sure it may be dim, but it's something you get used to.
chriszzz said:1. Very interesting. I have no experience with superteles at wide apertures, but the Canon MTF charts for their superteles still support the assertion that they perform better stopped down then at max. Check the MTF charts for,say, their 400/2.8, and their 500 and 600 lenses. However, the MTF for 300/2.8 does indicate better performance at wide open.
chriszzz said:2. It's moot to talk about 600mm fast (2.8 or better) lenses since they don't exist. There are no 2.8 lenses for anything above 400mm in mainstream use as far as i know.
chriszzz said:3. Could you point me to some references or sample images that support your point ? I would be very interested to learn something new.
chriszzz said:Impressive. Do you do photography professionally ?
chriszzz said:One can do this just by using DOF preview. There is no need to do stopped down focussing. Focussing is done at max aperture, which is what swingoutsister is trying to point out. Composition and checking of DOF can be done later using the DOF preview feature on many SLRs.
chriszzz said:Firstly, this "personal capacity" thing does not wash with me. Under your username is a little word "Moderator", and it identifies you as such, and you will be perceived as such. This is the equivalent of sending a letter to the Straits Times Forum using your company letterhead.
chriszzz said:Secondly, being moderators, you are held to a higher standard code of conduct then ordinary members. After all, you police the forums and hold the responsibility to moderate discussions.
chriszzz said:Thirdly, if this discussion erupts into a flame war, how are the mods going to have the moral authority to intervene when it is the mods themselves that started the ball rolling ?
chriszzz said:One can do this just by using DOF preview. There is no need to do stopped down focussing. Focussing is done at max aperture, which is what swingoutsister is trying to point out. Composition and checking of DOF can be done later using the DOF preview feature on many SLRs.
You guys really got to learn to relax and lighten up a bit, when I posted that, I never meant it to be sarcastic. It was just a tongue-in-cheek comment, no reason to feel offended. I did not add a cute smiley behind for nothing.You want to know how the mods were sarcastic ( though I did not mention you specifically. You should know who you are ) ? How about words like "What a load of bollocks... " ? How about a jab at how a fast lens works as a good paperweight ? These are not sarcasm ? In fact, it's downright rudeness, especially from the people who are supposed to moderate the discussion.
Ian said:Firstly MTF charts are mostly meaningless as they don't give an accurate picture of how a lens performs in the real world as many factors such as optical abberations (coma, chromatic abberation etc) are not measurable by the MTF methodology.
Did I say f2.8 for 600mm plus, no I did not, what I said was 'fast glass' that means 600/4. 800/5.6, 1200/11 etc or in the case of one 'lens' I own 1600/6.3
Sure, I'd be happy to sell you some sample images at my normal commercial rates
You'll find plenty of reviews online by professional photographers who use long glass for a living and most concur that image quality drops off noticably with most superteles (not just Kwanon). With some superteles you can get 1-2 stops of useable range, and in a few instances even a bit more, or less. It varies with the exact lens. For example, one of my early 1970s vintage Nikkor 600s is horrible at f5.6 and further down, while the later model is quite reasonable at f5.6~8
Yes and have been doing so for nearly 25 years.
A nice idea in theory, however try it with a large format camera (view camera) sometime and find out what the word 'mess' means.
Sure you can use DOF preview and many do use it to make final adjustments as necessary, and it's the method I've been using for over 30 years. However most landscape and architectural professionals prefer to stop down manually when using filters and manual focusing for the final take and then use mirror lockup to further reduce any camera induced vibration. Try using a ND grad or reverse grad with DOF preview and you'll soon understand where I'm coming from.
chriszzz said:I see. Is your 1600 a real camera lens or some kind of telescope ?.
chriszzz said:Sorry, it will be beyond me to buy your commercial stuff. No dough. But I'll be happy to read any reference materials you might know about on the web. Actually, I did look around but those few sites I found only mentioned this so-and-so lens is fabulous, works great, focuses fast, balances well, etc, but none talk about how his lens performs stopped down vs wide open. I'll look around further. I'm very interested because this behavior seems to contradict every shred of common knowledge about normal lens performance.
chriszzz said:Whoa... I'm impressed. Do you have a website showcasing some of your photos ?
chriszzz said:I understand the DOF preview and mirror lock up bit, but I can't see why they would do stopped down focusing. What does it buy you that a plain DOF preview doesn't ? And modern AF cameras normally do not allow stopped down AF, which means it'll have to be done manually.
chriszzz said:(Forums mod system deleted for brevity)
It's too bad that it did not go down well. I think we all have to understand that members who bother to give feedback are doing so because they like the forums and want it to improve. Why else would they spend time and effort to write something that is potentially explosive ? In any case, I will continue to participate in the forums and give feedback whenever I feel it is due. And yes, I welcome feedback from you guys if you think I went overboard.
Ian said:Okay, firstly, no self respecting landscape (or commercial, architectural or aerial) photographer uses AF anything, it's entirely done manually because the current AF accuracy is not good enough for critical work.
ckiang said:You referring to MF-ing on a MF system right? Coz I find it too difficult to MF an AF lens on any camera (AF or MF) coz the focussing throw is just too short (probably designed that way to have faster AF?)
Regards
CK
Jed said:Forget this Chriszzz gents. Look what I just came across in another thread, here, post 13. Talk about pot calling the kettle, and I haven't even been looking out for his posts, it just happened to be in that thread I was reading.
ckiang said:You referring to MF-ing on a MF system right? Coz I find it too difficult to MF an AF lens on any camera (AF or MF) coz the focussing throw is just too short (probably designed that way to have faster AF?)
Regards
CK
Ian said:It's a catadioptric lens system :devil:
A good starting place is the now out of print Ilford Manual of Photography.
Okay, firstly, no self respecting landscape (or commercial, architectural or aerial) photographer uses AF anything, it's entirely done manually because the current AF accuracy is not good enough for critical work.
ND grads and reverse grads require adjustment to place the transition point of the filter correctly in the composed image. This requires the use of BOTH hands to manipulate the filter holder and filter to the correct location. Try doing that while holding down the DOF preview lever/button.
Most users here know how the system works after a few weeks with the moderators. Not all users post answers to really help either, there are quite a few who post here just to show off their alleged knowledge or equipment rather their lack of it and their complete mis-understanding of various aspects of photography. Sometimes such posts make me along with others post extremely cutting replies to try to snap the luser out of his or her delusion.
One last point, my signature refers to those who believe everything that is printed in photographic magazines is both accurate and unbiased. Having worked in the press for many years I can assure you that commercial considerations really colour magazine articles, reviews etc and that regurgitating (re-telling) a magazines opinion shows a very callow and immature photographer.
ckiang said:Wow, I had never expected a tongue-in-cheek reply to clive's post to generate to much heat here. If I offended anyone, then I apologise. But like Jed and Ian said, (due to the things work here) most moderators are not posting as capacity of a moderator unless signed off as so. There really isn't a reason to doubt that.
You guys really got to learn to relax and lighten up a bit, when I posted that, I never meant it to be sarcastic. It was just a tongue-in-cheek comment, no reason to feel offended. I did not add a cute smiley behind for nothing.
Regards
CK
Disclaimer : The above post is made in my personal capacity and does not reflect ClubSNAP's point of view nor does it from from my moderator designation.
chriszzz said:Look Jed, in that thread I was just kidding. See my smiley behind ? How many smileys do I need to use to indicate I was kidding ?
chriszzz said:CK,
I must admit that I thought your smiley was actually more of a LOL (laughing out loud) kind of emoticon, not a smiley like . LOL as you know can be used to indicate a rather condescending tone. If I had misunderstood your message, then I apologise for using your statement as a negative example.