Trying to Shoot the Moon


ok will do so tonight!

i actually find the image from the 70-200 sharper than the 70-300 when enlarged....although i do not understand why that is so.
 

One reason is probably because the lens itself is of higher grade glass and sharper on its own, when all settings are exactly the same, its probably the grade, somewhat like milk, for example (not the best) fresh milk and rotten milk,chemically they're both the same (as far as I know) but fresh milk is obviously better because well.... it ain't rotten, hence its better while rotten milk,while is still milk, is rotten and sour,and not good for the body, likewise, the 70-200 is an L lens,hence the glass should be better than the 70-300 which i believe is a normal lens
 

spidey89 said:
One reason is probably because the lens itself is of higher grade glass and sharper on its own, when all settings are exactly the same, its probably the grade, somewhat like milk, for example (not the best) fresh milk and rotten milk,chemically they're both the same (as far as I know) but fresh milk is obviously better because well.... it ain't rotten, hence its better while rotten milk,while is still milk, is rotten and sour,and not good for the body, likewise, the 70-200 is an L lens,hence the glass should be better than the 70-300 which i believe is a normal lens

hahaha.. bro fresh milk n rotten milk really not a very good comparison.. maybe use durian of different grade.. :)
 

Sorry la, I always lack of good examples and comparisons, maybe I should sit down one day and think, then write down everything hahahaha
 

just did this:

_MG_9159.jpg


seems a little better yet not much details except the sides.
 

just did this:

_MG_9159.jpg


seems a little better yet not much details except the sides.

Don't be discouraged, I think its an improvement, just need to shoot more ;)
 

Some suggestions:
Shoot in RAW - this will allow you a greater range of sharpening and contrast/brightness options.
Try these settings in Manual and adjust from there: ISO200, f8, 1/125s.
If too dark, then adjust the ISO up a bit. If too light, increase the shutter speed.
Use AF and shoot.

The tripod has to be absolutely stable. This is like trying to hit a moving target 384 thousand km away. A cable release is recommended, although not absolutely necessary.

Good luck.

PS: you can also try to add a teleconverter if this is available for you.
Also mirror lock up (if available) will help to prevent camera shake.
 

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IS tries to compensate for movement, when you mount it on the tripod, it doesn't know its on a tripod, it takes it that "IS on means needs help, IS off means no need". So when its on and its on a tripod, it shifts unnecessarily trying to compensate for shakes which aren't there, causing shakes instead

What about when using a Panasonic body and lens with OIS? Still the same? Better to turn it off?
 

Whatever form of IS, be it lens, in body, or whatever funny thing they have in the future, all turn off, it will compensate for shakes that are not there, eats battery as well, not a fan of turning on IS/VR/VC etc when there isn't a need but I digress, so yea, just the same,turn it off, if you turn on both body and lens IS, you'll probably get worse images
 

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