Torchlight hobbyist? Anyone??
- Thread starter Andy Ho
- Start date
- Status
R u using one? I saw only one left in the shop.Another light that is highly accliamed for its brightness is the Priceton Tec Surge. It is about 80++ dollar and totally waterproof 500 feets. Only gripe is it is made of plastic, might crack if dropped from high altitude. Uses 8 AA alkalines and can produce 90+ lumen brighteness and the throw is caparable to scorpion (these I read fm pic of beam shots from the net one cos I hvn't own the surge yet so cannot be sure). My scorpion seems to throw a teeny bit further than my G2Z 
I shone on the darkest part of my carpark downstair, the scorpion seems to reach a little bit further. Anyway, back to the surge, I read that (several website mentioned this too) the solder will melt after 10mins of continueos on, anyone with PT Surge can confirm? :dunno:
I shone on the darkest part of my carpark downstair, the scorpion seems to reach a little bit further. Anyway, back to the surge, I read that (several website mentioned this too) the solder will melt after 10mins of continueos on, anyone with PT Surge can confirm? :dunno:I can confirm that the solder melts after an extended runtime. I can also confirm that the newer units which they sent me, don't have this problem. Also the brightness of the PT Surge drops quite a lot during it's runtime. Esp when I use it with nimh. After the first 30 mins of runtime, it's no longer comparable to even a P60 LA from the SF series.
Andy Ho
Member
Princeton Tec made one of the most impractical, most stupidly designed lights around. They come easily breakable when it is stated by them that it is unbreakable. It is a piece of crap to me.
A friend of mine bought a Surge and the switch broke on the first day of use. After a few months he contacted PT about it. They sent him a new unit (which is cool service) but when he received it from the post the switch too is broken.
Many have also complained of bulbs melting the light unit as it is too hot, explosion of batteries due to poor heat conductivity and lousy batteries, parts breaking and the likes. To me, Princeton Tec is :thumbsd:
A friend of mine bought a Surge and the switch broke on the first day of use. After a few months he contacted PT about it. They sent him a new unit (which is cool service) but when he received it from the post the switch too is broken.
Many have also complained of bulbs melting the light unit as it is too hot, explosion of batteries due to poor heat conductivity and lousy batteries, parts breaking and the likes. To me, Princeton Tec is :thumbsd:
Andy Ho said:
There are some points I agree on and some I don't.
Whether or not the lights they design are practical, I've no comments, as to their fragility, I've dropped my Surge and Tec40 several times with no ill effects so far. As for the bulb melting issue, they seem to have solved it.
Explosion of batteries due to poor heat conductivity? I'm afraid I don't quite agree with that point. Their lights never use battery fast enough to make the batteries heat up alot. Of cos the bulb itself produces heat. But what I think makes the batteries exploded, is because of the build up pressure inside, probably of hydrogen. As Nimh batteries are used up, they tend to release a bit of hydrogen, in the case of the PT Surge, there are 8 cells to release "a little" hydrogen, and I guess the pellets couldn't absorb it fast enough. Plus the entire environment inside the light is sealed, thus the pressure builds up until it goes pop or boom. On one hand, it shows that their lights are water proof, on the other, it causes exploding lights.
I won't recommend their lights strongly to anyone either, but so far I've had good experience with their Rage, Tec40 and the Surge.
Any one has any comments on Underwater Kinetic lights? I kinda like the design of the 4AA/Q40.
Just my 2 cents.
I have the UK Q40, this light is designed for diving but I can't remember the depth it can be submerged but the other version 4AA (A2) is up to 3m. BTW, A2 is designed for hazardous use. I believed the Q40 can be submerged deeper, it has no other openings other than a hole for you to insert the batteries then u screw on the rubber bezel on to seal it. You have to apply some silicone grease for better water proofing. I had tried to submerged this light to 4m for 20 mins, and average of 2m for another 40 mins and no water had sipped into the batt compartment. The 4AA (A2) comes with a side switch instead of the silicone-rubber holder for you to attached it to a helmet or your diving goggle. The Q40 can only be on by twisting the bezel clockwise. I am satisfied with the beam which I regard as moderate spot and throw is maybe half of the scorpion....battery life is good, I had on it for 3 hours continuously, beam turn a bit yellowish but is still quite bright and "usable". This light is not regulated. Output is about the same as the Inova XO something like 30 lumens. I can't comment if the plastic will break on hard impact cos nv dropped it b4. 
I would say is a good hiking light. I also dunno how this light would perform underwater cos I dun dive. Oh, it is recommended un-screwing the bezel to let go of any hydrogen gas once in a while to prevent explosion!
I would say is a good hiking light. I also dunno how this light would perform underwater cos I dun dive. Oh, it is recommended un-screwing the bezel to let go of any hydrogen gas once in a while to prevent explosion!
Anyone hear of Tigerlight? Is it really brighter than SF M6? See here:
http://www.britishblades.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1722
BTW, who owns a Tigerlight here? Where do you get it from locally?
http://www.britishblades.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1722
BTW, who owns a Tigerlight here? Where do you get it from locally?
The tigerlight is slightly longer and heavier than the M6 if I'm not wrong. I currently have Casey's Tigerlight which I'm sending it back to USA as soon as I've time to go to the post office.
Some notes on the tigerlight. It is bright, the beam is a bit blotchy, but I'm very sure it's no where near SF's 500 lumens HOLA (high output lamp assembly) option. I did take a P91 LA and put it in a tigerlight's reflector. The result is a pretty white light (whiter than a P91 on 3x123 fresh) and it does take a while to cool down when you switch it off. Around 0.5 seconds. You can see the filament glowing and cooling off after you switch it off.
I don't think anyone here sells a Tigerlight here locally.
You can try getting the people from Sheares to get you a A-19. OR you can try CPF's B/S/T. One does pop up ocasionally.
Some notes on the tigerlight. It is bright, the beam is a bit blotchy, but I'm very sure it's no where near SF's 500 lumens HOLA (high output lamp assembly) option. I did take a P91 LA and put it in a tigerlight's reflector. The result is a pretty white light (whiter than a P91 on 3x123 fresh) and it does take a while to cool down when you switch it off. Around 0.5 seconds. You can see the filament glowing and cooling off after you switch it off.
I don't think anyone here sells a Tigerlight here locally.
You can try getting the people from Sheares to get you a A-19. OR you can try CPF's B/S/T. One does pop up ocasionally.
bro, no hurry man, just let me know the cost of the postage, and i'll pay you back 
Arrrgghh....! I was burning in my scorpion with the bezel facing down on the table, cos the bezel isn't those scallop type so I actually forgotten I left it on for burning in....after 1/2 hour, I smell something burning then I remeber the scorpion was left on.......the body became very hot and the lens melted and got a hole in the centre!!! :bigeyes: Now my scorpion lens is damaged... :complain: Is there a replacement for the lens? Has anyone fix a SF Pyrex glass lens on a scorpion and is it possible? thks.
Zephirum said:
contact streamlight customer service through their website and they will send you a replacement lens with installation instructions.
i don't think you can fix a SF pyrex lens on a scorpion.
to fix the lexan (?) lens on scorpion you got to put the lens on top of the bezel and push it in hard. i guess a pyrex lens would crack under pressure.
- Status
Similar threads
