Tokina 28-70 f/2.6-2.8 ATX Pro II
- Thread starter ckiang
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Thanks CK. So I'm still confused about which is a better lens. So the Tokina AF 28-70 f/2.6-2.8 was/is/based on the legendary Angenieux 28-70?
Is the Angenieux model a 270? Model 280 is 28-80mm, right? There is the Pro 28-70mm too. How can I tell which is the Angenieux design? Any specific shop I should go to and specific model number I can ask for?
A more experienced friend went with me to a camera shop and we were shown the Pro II. The box says Pro II but the lens just has the word "Pro" My friend had a look at the lens and said that it is not the Angenieux model. He mentioned that the lens should have a gold "merlion" type seal on it? Anybody has any clue?
Regards.
Think the earliest one is the Angenieux one, it was later modified to ATX Pro, then Pro II. The Pro and before uses the regular hood, the Pro II uses the flowershaped hood.
Incidentally, I've seen the real Angenieux 28-70 f/2.6-2.8 and it doesn't look like any of the Tokinas, so....
Regards
CK
Another review compared with this lens, namely, AF 20~35mm f2.8D and Nikkor AF-S 28~70mm f2.8D IF-ED.
http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/Forest/2252/review1.htm
Conclusion from the review:
If you are looking for a lens with good optics at a reasonable price, I would strongly recommend the Tokina AT-X Pro II 28~70mm f2.6/2.8.
http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/Forest/2252/review1.htm
Conclusion from the review:
If you are looking for a lens with good optics at a reasonable price, I would strongly recommend the Tokina AT-X Pro II 28~70mm f2.6/2.8.
If you are a Pro and demand high quality and speed or you have money and don't know where to spend, go for the Nikon AFS 28-70 f/2.8. Else the Tokina 28-70 f/2.6-2.8 ATX Pro II is good alternative... or even the Sigma 24-70 f/2.8 if you like. It's all depends on individual preferences. 
Originally posted by extreme2
If you are a Pro and demand high quality and speed or you have money and don't know where to spend, go for the Nikon AFS 28-70 f/2.8. Else the Tokina 28-70 f/2.6-2.8 ATX Pro II is good alternative... or even the Sigma 24-70 f/2.8 if you like. It's all depends on individual preferences.
Right. Unless you get a chance to own a AF-S 28-70mm f/2.8D ED-IF for say, $800?
Now, I wonder how the Tokina 28-80/2.8 stack up....Regards
CK
there is probably a bit of difference in different versions of the lenses. BUT most importantly.... do you think that little difference will MAKE OR BRAKE your image ? Do you think you will be pushing the limits of your equipments ? I would say.. just get any lens.. shoot first, don't bother to do lens test... upgrade your equipment only when it becomes the bottle neck in your photography.
I had the first version of the tokina f2.8 ATX, this is not the Angenieux version. The ATX pro is the one.
To Tony:
the one with the merlion is just a special edition. With or without it that tag, it is the ATX Pro version.
I had the first version of the tokina f2.8 ATX, this is not the Angenieux version. The ATX pro is the one.
To Tony:
the one with the merlion is just a special edition. With or without it that tag, it is the ATX Pro version.
Kho King
Senior Member
I am still confused with the af/mf focusing of the 28-70mm pro II.
From the website (http://www.picture-perfect.net/tokina28-70review.shtml)
1. Camera set to AF / Lens set to MF - Auto focus still functions but is very slow. The whole large focusing ring moves with AF operation. Also, the lens can be manually focused by moving the focusing ring, but doing this seems to put stress on the camera's focusing motor.
2. Camera set to AF / Lens set to AF - The lens achieves very fast auto focus operation.
Meanwhile the focus ring does not move during focusing, but can me moved freely by the hand and have no effect on focus.
3. Camera set to MF / Lens set to MF - Moving the lens' focusing ring changes the focus, the focusing ring at this setting has a nice, firm feel to it.
4. Camera set to MF / Lens set to AF - The lens cannot focus, manually or automatically.
At this setting it is basically useless.
I thought someone has previously confirmed that AF/MF can be done at the focusing ring, and the camera can be left in AF mode all the time? Can someone with the lens clarify?
From the website (http://www.picture-perfect.net/tokina28-70review.shtml)
1. Camera set to AF / Lens set to MF - Auto focus still functions but is very slow. The whole large focusing ring moves with AF operation. Also, the lens can be manually focused by moving the focusing ring, but doing this seems to put stress on the camera's focusing motor.
2. Camera set to AF / Lens set to AF - The lens achieves very fast auto focus operation.
Meanwhile the focus ring does not move during focusing, but can me moved freely by the hand and have no effect on focus.
3. Camera set to MF / Lens set to MF - Moving the lens' focusing ring changes the focus, the focusing ring at this setting has a nice, firm feel to it.
4. Camera set to MF / Lens set to AF - The lens cannot focus, manually or automatically.
At this setting it is basically useless.
I thought someone has previously confirmed that AF/MF can be done at the focusing ring, and the camera can be left in AF mode all the time? Can someone with the lens clarify?
ninelives
Senior Member
just follow number 3 if u want to use MF.
follow number 2 if u want to use AF.
1 and 4 just confuse u only, don't bother about it.
during AF, your forcusing ring is lock ! do not turn it manually!
Does your camera support Direct Manual Focus (DMF)
? if yes, your lens can set to MF and your camera set to AF(turn on the Direct Manual Focus (DMF)
if applicable), when the shutter is not confirm, u can't turn the forcusing ring, when it is confirm, the forcusing ring is unlock, so you can turn it manually. normally people don't use Direct Manual Focus (DMF)
, kinda troublesome.
ps: Direct Manual Focus (DMF)
Direct Manual Focus mode allows you to quickly adjust focusing after the focus is locked in AF mode. Pressing the shutter release half way activates and locks AF, in addition to releasing the internal clutch. This frees the focus ring, permitting you to focus manually, primarily for close-up or portrait shots. In this way, you benefit from the convenience of AF, plus the additional creative control of MF, without changing modes or settings.
follow number 2 if u want to use AF.
1 and 4 just confuse u only, don't bother about it.
during AF, your forcusing ring is lock ! do not turn it manually!
Does your camera support Direct Manual Focus (DMF)
? if yes, your lens can set to MF and your camera set to AF(turn on the Direct Manual Focus (DMF)
if applicable), when the shutter is not confirm, u can't turn the forcusing ring, when it is confirm, the forcusing ring is unlock, so you can turn it manually. normally people don't use Direct Manual Focus (DMF)
, kinda troublesome.
ps: Direct Manual Focus (DMF)
Direct Manual Focus mode allows you to quickly adjust focusing after the focus is locked in AF mode. Pressing the shutter release half way activates and locks AF, in addition to releasing the internal clutch. This frees the focus ring, permitting you to focus manually, primarily for close-up or portrait shots. In this way, you benefit from the convenience of AF, plus the additional creative control of MF, without changing modes or settings.
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