Tips for night photography.
- Thread starter maker32
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Um, looks like whatever has been said here didn't make any sense to you huh?
I capture this handheld on a dark sky but with stunning lights...it all depends on what you are trying to shoot...if itz candid you definitely need a flash and i'm using 450D with kit lense on it.
It's at ISO 800, f stop 4.5 and shutter 1/6
Wow! With kit lens and shutter speed of 1/6 and still can get such a shot, handheld somemore! I'm impressed! You must have really steady hands!
Time to practise my handheld technique liao... :sweat:
Kit
Senior Member
It's at ISO 800, f stop 4.5 and shutter 1/6
If you'd print this out in A3 size, you'll find that there's nothing to shout about with this photo. At ISO 800, it won't be as clean. At f/4.5, you won't get the required depth of field to ensure the entire frame is in focussed. You might think handholding at 1/6th is acceptable, refer to the point about printing it out on A3. You haven't got the fundamentals right.
Kit
Senior Member
Time to get a good sturdy tripod and your fundamentals right.
Kit
Senior Member
If night scenes are your thing, a flash is a waste of money. No flash is that powerful to light up the entire scene.
I capture this handheld on a dark sky but with stunning lights...it all depends on what you are trying to shoot...if itz candid you definitely need a flash and i'm using 450D with kit lense on it.
I'm bit confuse here. I though that for scenery we should have f5 or above setting to get the DOF... But look at librus's picture setting on f4.5 also can get a nice picture.
Please correct me if I'm wrong.
RedDotPhoto
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I'd recomend these if you're looking for landscapes:
1) Tripod
2) Cable release
3) Aperture mode - F8 or smaller
4) ISO100 (to make the image as clean as possible)
5) Shutter should fall between 1sec to several seconds
6) Activate mirror lock up (Check your manual)
7) Fire away and do exposure compensation if required!
There're more than a few ways to go about doing it, try different steps/combination and come back and share with us!
1) Tripod
2) Cable release
3) Aperture mode - F8 or smaller
4) ISO100 (to make the image as clean as possible)
5) Shutter should fall between 1sec to several seconds
6) Activate mirror lock up (Check your manual)
7) Fire away and do exposure compensation if required!
There're more than a few ways to go about doing it, try different steps/combination and come back and share with us!
Because you are only seeing such a small thumbnail. The lack of DOF is not visible here. Seeing a bigger image, like what Kit pointed out, the softness becomes more apparent.
Hey happyflic
Don't be confused. This is what a forum's for, we're here to help each other.
For this picture posted on the internet, the color and sharpness seems good. However, you must remember that this is posted on the internet (Which is already a reduced file size. Reduced file size=reduced elements in the picture).
Secondly, at F4.5, the depth of field would render most part of the picture soft. You can't really see this with such a small image posted but if the original is posted, you can see it clearly.
At ISO 800, noise will be visible when you blow it up bigger. Of course you can get Noise removal but that's a different story altogether.
Lastly, to handhold at 1/6 would render most images soft. Remember the golden rule( Photography is also about breaking the rules
), the focal length used would be your shutter 1/focal length in general. Do note this also depends on the mood you're shooting and the kind of shot you want to get.To answer TS's queries, generally for night shots
- Use a tripod, even those mini tripod placed on dustbin/railings etc. It beats handhold.
- Use aperture F8 and smaller to get the required depth of field
- Exposure of 2secs and longer depending on the shot you want to achieve
- For ISO, I generally try to keep at 100-200 depending on the scene and the shots I want to achieve
- No Flash cos its useless. Unless we're talking about Night Portrait + Background scenery (Which is a different story altogether again).
Most important is to go out and shoot, look at your shots. Learn and have fun.
Cheers!
Headshotzx
Senior Member
http://www.joemcnally.com/blog/2008/04/15/hold-the-phone/
...hehh hehhh.. Here's how you light and Island and get awesome shots
Pokka hit the nail on the head.
CanonDreamer
New Member
- Keep de flash in your bag (as it is no use) as no flash able to cover everything you want to frame (distance and areas)
- Find a wall, post or something you can lean on to have a fix posture (if you have no tripod) and start shooting (try with multiple setting) to get the best result
It required a lot of patience and practice to horn you skill. I am newbie as well and I would love to take a good pic. Everytime i asked i get whacked... Do research and apply them... all this take time... Don't be afraid of using P-mode, i always use P-mode to compare them...
Happy shooting...
- Find a wall, post or something you can lean on to have a fix posture (if you have no tripod) and start shooting (try with multiple setting) to get the best result
It required a lot of patience and practice to horn you skill. I am newbie as well and I would love to take a good pic. Everytime i asked i get whacked... Do research and apply them... all this take time... Don't be afraid of using P-mode, i always use P-mode to compare them...
Happy shooting...
Kit
Senior Member
This is something that needs clarification. IS will only help to a certain extend. For night scenes, you are talking about exposures in seconds. Turn off the IS and grab the tripod.
denniskee
Senior Member
there is a sub-forum here in cs specially cater to night photography
http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=85
http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=85
Hey happyflic
Don't be confused. This is what a forum's for, we're here to help each other.
For this picture posted on the internet, the color and sharpness seems good. However, you must remember that this is posted on the internet (Which is already a reduced file size. Reduced file size=reduced elements in the picture).
Secondly, at F4.5, the depth of field would render most part of the picture soft. You can't really see this with such a small image posted but if the original is posted, you can see it clearly.
At ISO 800, noise will be visible when you blow it up bigger. Of course you can get Noise removal but that's a different story altogether.
Lastly, to handhold at 1/6 would render most images soft. Remember the golden rule( Photography is also about breaking the rules
To answer TS's queries, generally for night shots
- Use a tripod, even those mini tripod placed on dustbin/railings etc. It beats handhold.
- Use aperture F8 and smaller to get the required depth of field
- Exposure of 2secs and longer depending on the shot you want to achieve
- For ISO, I generally try to keep at 100-200 depending on the scene and the shots I want to achieve
- No Flash cos its useless. Unless we're talking about Night Portrait + Background scenery (Which is a different story altogether again).
Most important is to go out and shoot, look at your shots. Learn and have fun.
Cheers!
Thanks for the above... appreciate for correction of my error.
Btw, I facing one problem as when I taking night shot and when inside my framing there is a lamp post with light on.. I'll see another reflection of the light on maybe another side of my picture. Can I know is it this is because of the flare? Emm...
I've tried 50f1.8 last weekend few times.. still have the same result... :sweat: Not sure what is my problem.
Able to post that picture up? Cannot quite understand what you're trying to say with the lamp post light on another side of ur picture? the other side is a mirror/glass?
But from my guess, if you're talking about stray light, you need to buy a lens hood to attach onto your lens. Try the 50mm and use different aperture. You can learn instantaneously about depth of field, and etc.
But from my guess, if you're talking about stray light, you need to buy a lens hood to attach onto your lens. Try the 50mm and use different aperture. You can learn instantaneously about depth of field, and etc.
He is talking about ghosting. Try removing your filter and you will probably see that reflected image disappear.
It is caused when light enters your camera through the lens, hits the sensor, but some of it reflects off the sensor onto the filter and back onto the sensor, thus causing a 'ghost' image. Because the filter is directly parallel to the sensor, the filter is often the most likely cause of ghosting.
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