Tele-Converter


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coconut3

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Sorry newbie qns

What is it for?
Example: Tamron 2x Tele-converter
2x mean wat?
how much 1 cost? (2nd hand)

Which brand is good for minolta camera ;)
 

Sorry newbie qns

What is it for?
Example: Tamron 2x Tele-converter
2x mean wat?
how much 1 cost? (2nd hand)

Which brand is good for minolta camera ;)

question is do you really need it? if you can move yrself nearer to yr subject, drop the idea of buying a converter, it lowers the sharpest greatly, unless yr gona pay $500 plus for the original converter, the focusing speed to still to slow.
;p
 

Sorry newbie qns

What is it for?
Example: Tamron 2x Tele-converter
2x mean wat?
how much 1 cost? (2nd hand)

Which brand is good for minolta camera ;)

i bought $100 kenko 2X 2nd from pai. but you will soon hear alot of comments that a 2X teleconvertor degrades quality by quite alot.

oh, and 2X means you get twice your focal lengths. for eg, a 70-200mm + 2X becomes a 140-400mm lens. often used as a cheap method to get that supertele reach. also, your aperture also drops by 2 stops, so a 70-200 F2.8 becomes a 140-400 f5.6.
 

not to mention that your max apperture at say 300mm (if you're trying to achieve 600mm with the TC) cannot be smaller than f4 otherwise you'll need to go full manual because AF will hunt forever. yes, sharpness does degrade unless you're using it for closeups - i've taken a portrait of a budgie up close with a sigma 300mm and kenko 2x tc, came out superb but it was tiring to shoot all day in full manual, although really good for battery life and training to use a camera without the frills and luxuries. ;)
 

Sorry newbie qns

What is it for?
Example: Tamron 2x Tele-converter
2x mean wat?
how much 1 cost? (2nd hand)

Which brand is good for minolta camera ;)
I agree with Geno it is better to try and close the distance with your subject rather than put extra glass (the TC) in front of your lens. If you do, you need to remember that the image quality will be determined by the worst glass through which it was captured. Also, the extra glass and length reduces the light that can reach the sensor and you end up losing 2 stops with a 2X.
So my suggestion is - rather than waste the money on a quality TC, go buy a lens with longer reach unless you already have a 600mm or 800mm and still need to extend the range. If you are using a fixed lens camera, then the only choice is to change camera or screw on a TC and accept the IQ degradation.
 

wah! 600mm or 800mm with a tc can get you the nostrils of a kingfisher at sg buloh! :bsmilie:
 

If you must use a TC use a 1.4x. Don't use a 2x. I find the 1.4x much better than the 2x.
 

wah! 600mm or 800mm with a tc can get you the nostrils of a kingfisher at sg buloh! :bsmilie:
Bird shooters are like that - always a couple of 100mm too short.;) When shooting birds, sometimes you do not want to be too near if it doesn't offer you the right perspective. For example, shooting from right under the tree the bird is perched on, will give you a view mostly of its bottom and belly but you will get a shot closer to the perspective of an eye level shot, which gives a better image of the entire bird, by moving back (or climbing an adjacent tree:bsmilie: ) which would require a longer lens to get the same sized image of the bird.
 

i think i got wat i want to know.. thanks guys.. u guys are helpful.. :)
 

buy a telescope if u need long range :bsmilie:
 

buy a telescope if u need long range :bsmilie:
Some people actually do.:) Digiscoping is what we call using a "spotting scope" with a digital camera. However, it does not come cheap either. Swaroski has a scope with attachment for dSLR and with stand costs around $2500. Here's an economy setup if you are interested:
http://www.avianwatchasia.org/forums/showthread.php?t=3024
 

Bird shooters are like that - always a couple of 100mm too short.;) When shooting birds, sometimes you do not want to be too near if it doesn't offer you the right perspective. For example, shooting from right under the tree the bird is perched on, will give you a view mostly of its bottom and belly but you will get a shot closer to the perspective of an eye level shot, which gives a better image of the entire bird, by moving back (or climbing an adjacent tree:bsmilie: ) which would require a longer lens to get the same sized image of the bird.

then i'd rather wait. i've let so many birds go by at sg buloh, pointless to shoot just for the sake of it. brought along the tc but never bothered to use it. at 400mm if i didn't like what i saw i just moved on. spotting scope sounds interesting, was looking at some on ebay some months ago but it'll have to wait for my 2007 budget ;) already almost blown 06's.
 

Hiee...

Teleconverters are nothing but "optical croppers". it crops you image from the original main lens and then project it back to the image circle for your imager(film/ccd).
Thats why you need a really good main lens to start with.

If you physically look at a 1.4X TC vs a 2.0X TC, the glass on the front for the 2x TC is smaller - why? Because it basically takes a smaller part of the image and then "stretch it bigger" to form the image circle to your imager/film. Thats why it will degrade to a certain extent as compared to using the main lens without teleconverter or even to an image using the 1.4X TC.

A couple IF's to consider...:bsmilie:

- IF you want to use a 2X converter with your fast lens...for your own use for archiving of nature species etc, then by all means.

- IF you want to use the 2X convertor to take a shot that you want to post on the web...for praises...then you might want to reconsider.

I personaly feel that using 2X convertors are okay as long as your host lens is fast & have good resolving power to start with. Otherwise using on slower lens may result in occasional disappointment..
 

Not just occasional... quite often...

Anyway I have 2x teleconvertor... just be prepared to use manual focus... AF does not work...
 

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