Tamron's new 24-70mm f2.8 VC

[sje4182]

anyone got the latest pricing for this lens?
thanks in advance...

Just called AWF and SLRR this morning for this lens (Ni). AWF (grey, 1yr shop wty) is $1,234. SLRR is $1,514 (or something close to that, cash only, local set).

I am very tempted to get it....

 

[ricleo]

can i check what is AWF?

 

[juste_millieu]

can i check what is AWF?

Art Work Foto

 

[sje4182]

There is a corner shop on the 1st level near pastamania called piccel (I suppose it's a play on the spelling of "pixel"). Anyway they quoted $1,4xx local set.

 

[sje4182]

Went down to Funan yesterday intending to buy a copy. But during testing a strange problem came up. Some white coloured areas (eg. counter cabinet/shelves) would show up as yellow. It's not really a yellow cast (yellow cast would be the whole frame has a yellowish tint right?). But it is specific white areas that appear yellow in colour (strong and obvious). When i switched back to my 24-120, it was normal. I stepped outside the shop to shoot the interior of the mall and some of the white lighted signboards also appeared yellow. Shop then let me use his d700 to try but also the same problem. Shop then passed me another copy and the problem persists. I went to another shop and the problem was also there but less obvious. So end up i went home empty handed

Anyone had this experience or knows what's the problem?

 

[alamin]

Due to fluorescent lighting at high shutter speed....its normal can try google " fluorescent lighting yellow cast" for more info...

I encountered it once when i bought the sigma 50mm 1.4 and tested it indoors... Thought it was a lens defect...

 

[sje4182]

Due to fluorescent lighting at high shutter speed....its normal can try google " fluorescent lighting yellow cast" for more info...

I encountered it once when i bought the sigma 50mm 1.4 and tested it indoors... Thought it was a lens defect...

That's what i thought but why didn't nikon 24-120 have such problem? Related to large aperture?

 

[ricleo]

That's what i thought but why didn't nikon 24-120 have such problem? Related to large aperture?

With the 2.8 lens u get shutter speeds faster than the 24-120. Hence easier to see this effect. Use a lower iso to keep shutter below 1/60 1/50 the effect shld go away

 

[sje4182]

With the 2.8 lens u get shutter speeds faster than the 24-120. Hence easier to see this effect. Use a lower iso to keep shutter below 1/60 1/50 the effect shld go away

Ok, thanks. I go back and try again.

UPDATE: I just checked my image files, both tamron and nikon were shot wat above 50 or 60s. Nikon was around 1/500s and Tamron around 1/1600.

 

[ricleo]

if you read up on the effect of fluorscent light flickering, you should know it is by chance and may/may not happen in every shot. This below is a very layman explanation from me hehe...

some shots if your shot was "aligned" with the lights properly, you see all white. if you were aligned to the timing of the flicker, you see that effect.

so the higher the shutter speeds, the higher the chance of meeting the flicker.

if your shutter speed is slower than the flicker rate, you will "sync" with the light for sure within your exposure timing.

 

[mabmy]

Ok, thanks. I go back and try again.

UPDATE: I just checked my image files, both tamron and nikon were shot wat above 50 or 60s. Nikon was around 1/500s and Tamron around 1/1600.

I've experienced this "issue" before too, thought there was something wrong with the cam or lens but end up I realize its just that my shutter was too fast, think it was 2000 or above. Bump ISO and reduced shutter and the "issue" went away when shooting in fluorescent lighting.

 

[sje4182]

I've experienced this "issue" before too, thought there was something wrong with the cam or lens but end up I realize its just that my shutter was too fast, think it was 2000 or above. Bump ISO and reduced shutter and the "issue" went away when shooting in fluorescent lighting.

But that kinda sucks cos one of the reasons we buy a fast lens is so that we don't need to bump up the ISO and/or reduce shutter speed.

 

[ricleo]

well. shooting with a 24-70, shutter speeds of 1/60 is still relatively ok even at 70mm since you have VC?

usually fast shutter speed requirements are during the day outside in sunlight.

 

[alamin]

D shop assistant who sold me the lens said, u cant defy physics

 

[sje4182]

well. shooting with a 24-70, shutter speeds of 1/60 is still relatively ok even at 70mm since you have VC?

usually fast shutter speed requirements are during the day outside in sunlight.

But the VC only works for camera shake but not subject blur (i.e. moving subject), say taking candid shot of people, when they talk sure will move about a bit, gesture, laugh, etc....

 

[ricleo]

like what alamin said, you can't defy physics. Either shoot in artificial lighting within the limitations, or shoot in other lighting

if you want to freeze motion in artificial light, try using a flash, that will allow you to get faster shutter speeds without relying on the ambient light

But the VC only works for camera shake but not subject blur (i.e. moving subject), say taking candid shot of people, when they talk sure will move about a bit, gesture, laugh, etc....

 

[sje4182]

D shop assistant who sold me the lens said, u cant defy physics

But didn't encounter this issue with my nikon lens so it's not a universal physics issue

Anyway i guess whatever it is, at least it is not a manufacturing/QC issue.

 

[sje4182]

like what alamin said, you can't defy physics. Either shoot in artificial lighting within the limitations, or shoot in other lighting

if you want to freeze motion in artificial light, try using a flash, that will allow you to get faster shutter speeds without relying on the ambient light

Yeah, most of my shooting is indoor events with lots of ppl and movement. And yes i use flash most of the time. So if i use flash then won't have this problem?

 

[ricleo]

should be able to reduce the effect when using the flash since it will be your main light source. at least your main subjects should be lit properly.

if you use flash + slower shutter speed, that will also help you "freeze" the motion of your subject and make it appear sharper compared to the background

 

[sje4182]

should be able to reduce the effect when using the flash since it will be your main light source. at least your main subjects should be lit properly.

if you use flash + slower shutter speed, that will also help you "freeze" the motion of your subject and make it appear sharper compared to the background

Ok, but I still think Tamron is partly at fault (design wise) as my humble Nikon 24-120 doesn't have this problem and i don't think it's a common occurence with other lenses either.