Sunset Timelapse

[TheBlindJedi]

[video=youtube;4RRpHFqYfmU]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4RRpHFqYfmU[/video]

hello peeps. this is my first attempt on doing sunset time lapse. i dont own any professional video equipments & softwares cos i'm leaning more towards photography. hence, images were post processed using Lightroom, exported to jpeg and compiled using "Time Lapse Assembler" (a free app for mac) and then I used my mac's iMovie to do add audio and some text innit.

there're a few things which i would like to brush up on. so, i did a web search, and here's what i think is a good dig (out of the many):

http://www.learntimelapse.com/time-...posure-avoiding-flicker-and-dragging-shutter/
http://dynamicperception.com/tech-tip/achieving-holy-grail-day-night-timelapse

sunset/sunrise timelapse is not as simple as it is due to the changing intensity of light and constant need to change the exposure settings. so i would like to seek advice from the timelapse experts/enthusiasts here in CS for a few things on how do you;

1. expose for the changing light intensity of sunset/sunrise?
2. avoid flickering?
3. "deflicker" in post?

Would be great if your tips is something that is not listed in the links above and give me the settings/method that really works for you.

Thanks for your time! Will really appreciate fruitful C&C! Have an awesome day ahead!

 

[catchlights]

I use LRtimelapse for my timelapse processing, since the day of freeware to donate-ware to professional license today, http://lrtimelapse.com/

The EBook Timelapse Shooting and Processing is very useful, there is a chapter talking about the shooting and processing "Holy Grail" timelapse, you can find all answers you want to know in this ebook.

but you need to purchase the ebook separately, as Private License does not include this Ebook.

hope this help.

 

[TheBlindJedi]

I use LRtimelapse for my timelapse processing, since the day of freeware to donate-ware to professional license today, http://lrtimelapse.com/

The EBook Timelapse Shooting and Processing is very useful, there is a chapter talking about the shooting and processing "Holy Grail" timelapse, you can find all answers you want to know in this ebook.

but you need to purchase the ebook separately, as Private License does not include this Ebook.

hope this help.

ahh. just the tool I need. thank you for sharing!

 

[pettypoh]

lrtimelapse is good software to use

you can set camera to manual mode - change of shutter speed after every 1 full stop

for sunset timelapse, usually about 6-7 stops altogether

i would usually control shutter speed till a certain point, then switch to changing iso instead so that my shutter time won't take too long

remember to manually set a white balance and shoot in raw mode is better

have fun =)

 

[TheBlindJedi]

lrtimelapse is good software to use

you can set camera to manual mode - change of shutter speed after every 1 full stop

for sunset timelapse, usually about 6-7 stops altogether

i would usually control shutter speed till a certain point, then switch to changing iso instead so that my shutter time won't take too long

remember to manually set a white balance and shoot in raw mode is better

have fun =)

thanks for the tip! ive downloaded lrtimelapse and it works like a gem! hehe.

 

[giantcanopy]

1. expose for the changing light intensity of sunset/sunrise?
2. avoid flickering?
3. "deflicker" in post?

1)
I used AV mode during my last trip ( and jncidentally my first time doing timelapse as well! ) . I bought a Bramper but I am too lousy with estimating the transit. This is probably made more difficult if travelling to another country where the sunrise sunset transition varies from latitude and season. Anyone has good formula for Bramping in sg?

2) there are many sources of flicker as detailed from the online links.

3) I am using Lrtimelapse trial ( my runs are shorter than 400 frames anyway ). If there are residual flickers, I then process it further with Gbdeflicker2 plug in AE during the encoding. Gbdeflicker2 plug is a little cheaper than Lrtimelapse.

Ryan

 

[catchlights]

1)
I used AV mode during my last trip ( and jncidentally my first time doing timelapse as well! ) . I bought a Bramper but I am too lousy with estimating the transit. This is probably made more difficult if travelling to another country where the sunrise sunset transition varies from latitude and season. Anyone has good formula for Bramping in sg?

2) there are many sources of flicker as detailed from the online links.

3) I am using Lrtimelapse trial ( my runs are shorter than 400 frames anyway ). If there are residual flickers, I then process it further with Gbdeflicker2 plug in AE during the encoding. Gbdeflicker2 plug is a little cheaper than Lrtimelapse.

Ryan

the bramper is not easy to use, you need to do some trial run, when mean you need to shot at the a site at least once, or you are already experience with that,

since I already have the professional licence of LRtimelapse 3, I use Gunther's method (author of LRtimelapse), it is not so complicate.

and here is the first try on sunrise
http://www.istockphoto.com/stock-video-26640483-skyline-of-central-business-district-in-dawn.php

this is not a very good example, I will need to start much early and shoot longer sequence, btw too cloudy that morning too.


here are two android appwhich is helpful if you like to shoot sunrise sunset a lot.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=uk.co.sundroid&hl=en

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=pl.squap.android.solarfinder

 

[giantcanopy]

the bramper is not easy to use, you need to do some trial run, when mean you need to shot at the a site at least once, or you are already experience with that,

since I already have the professional licence of LRtimelapse 3, I use Gunther's method (author of LRtimelapse), it is not so complicate.

and here is the first try on sunrise
http://www.istockphoto.com/stock-video-26640483-skyline-of-central-business-district-in-dawn.php

this is not a very good example, I will need to start much early and shoot longer sequence, btw too cloudy that morning too.

here are two android appwhich is helpful if you like to shoot sunrise sunset a lot.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=uk.co.sundroid&hl=en

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=pl.squap.android.solarfinder

Thank you for the feedback. I find the paid version of lrtimelapse too expensive for infrequent hobbyist shooting. Anyhow thankfully most of my short sequences do not cross beyond the trial limit.

 

[catchlights]

Thank you for the feedback. I find the paid version of lrtimelapse too expensive for infrequent hobbyist shooting. Anyhow thankfully most of my short sequences do not cross beyond the trial limit.

my sequences usually not more than 360 frames, now keep it as 240 frames, anyway, I'm timelapse clips for stocks, so pay for professional licence is way to go.

 

[Philip Hayward]

DSLRDashboard is a nice free android app for making holy grail changes and running the intervalometer.

 

[RyanKhoo]

Hi there,

Excellent timelapse.

Can I check, if we were to do sunrise & sunset timelapse, what it the duration in real time required ? and what interval you usually set ?

Q1. That means how long do we need to be in the field to shoot:

(a) sunset
(b) sunrise ?

Q2 What is the interval you normally set the camera to for:

a) Sunset
b) sunrise ?

Thanks so much

 

[TheBlindJedi]

Hi there, Excellent timelapse. Can I check, if we were to do sunrise & sunset timelapse, what it the duration in real time required ? and what interval you usually set ? Q1. That means how long do we need to be in the field to shoot: (a) sunset (b) sunrise ? Q2 What is the interval you normally set the camera to for: a) Sunset b) sunrise ? Thanks so much

Hi Ryan, go google for this term called, "holy grail timelapse"... add on keywords like "tips" or "tricks" etc.

but pertaining to your questions, here r my answers (I'm no pro in this area though. just from personal experience.)

it pretty much depends on how you angle your shots and how wide your lens is. personally I feel that it's esthetically pleasing if the sun from outside of the frame, goes in and out of the frame during the timelapse. so, if you use a telephoto, you need lesser time in the field than you use a wide angle lens.

q1.
a) sunset start shooting 1.5-2 hour before sunset time and about 0.5-1 hour after that.

b) alternate of (a). 0.5-1 hr before sunrise time and 1.5-2 hours after that.

q2.
since i already have set the duration of time I'll be in the field, then I'll calculate the maximum number of shots that I can shoot with the memory card I am using. why I'm doing this is because I don't want that flickering effect or weird transition due to changing of memory card. and trust me. the boring waiting game might get you in a fight with the z monster and if the memory card gets full while you're dreaming about that hot babe you met the other day, it will cost you a few minutes of your precious timelapse. haha.

anws say for eg. I use a 32gb card, total shots I can get from here is 1200 raw files. and the total duration is abt 2 hours.

so the interval is
= 1200 shots / 2 hours
= 6 secs interval

also note that, considering the video output is at 24fps, the duration of your timelapse is only about 50secs.

so if you want a longer video, you can add more shots to it. well, it's definitely better if you take more shots and then ltr "fast forward" the frames to make the video shorter. but, from personal exp, I rather use 1 memory card cos I tend to fall asleep. haha. hope this helps. cheers.

 

[RyanKhoo]

Thanks TheBlindJedi for your helpful tips & info ...

I have one problem which I am not sure how you solve it ....

I know the settings have to be manual. In the beginning, when everything is bright ... the settings are f4, 1/80

But then as it grows darker, this set of reading will cause the system to make this pair of numbers to blink ... we just let the camera take the shot, right ?

Cheers

Hi Ryan, go google for this term called, "holy grail timelapse"... add on keywords like "tips" or "tricks" etc.

but pertaining to your questions, here r my answers (I'm no pro in this area though. just from personal experience.)

it pretty much depends on how you angle your shots and how wide your lens is. personally I feel that it's esthetically pleasing if the sun from outside of the frame, goes in and out of the frame during the timelapse. so, if you use a telephoto, you need lesser time in the field than you use a wide angle lens.

q1.
a) sunset start shooting 1.5-2 hour before sunset time and about 0.5-1 hour after that.

b) alternate of (a). 0.5-1 hr before sunrise time and 1.5-2 hours after that.

q2.
since i already have set the duration of time I'll be in the field, then I'll calculate the maximum number of shots that I can shoot with the memory card I am using. why I'm doing this is because I don't want that flickering effect or weird transition due to changing of memory card. and trust me. the boring waiting game might get you in a fight with the z monster and if the memory card gets full while you're dreaming about that hot babe you met the other day, it will cost you a few minutes of your precious timelapse. haha.

anws say for eg. I use a 32gb card, total shots I can get from here is 1200 raw files. and the total duration is abt 2 hours.

so the interval is
= 1200 shots / 2 hours
= 6 secs interval

also note that, considering the video output is at 24fps, the duration of your timelapse is only about 50secs.

so if you want a longer video, you can add more shots to it. well, it's definitely better if you take more shots and then ltr "fast forward" the frames to make the video shorter. but, from personal exp, I rather use 1 memory card cos I tend to fall asleep. haha. hope this helps. cheers.

 

[TheBlindJedi]

Thanks TheBlindJedi for your helpful tips & info ... I have one problem which I am not sure how you solve it .... I know the settings have to be manual. In the beginning, when everything is bright ... the settings are f4, 1/80 But then as it grows darker, this set of reading will cause the system to make this pair of numbers to blink ... we just let the camera take the shot, right ? Cheers

Hi Ryan. for sunset/sunrise, light intensity changes over time. I will use Av mode over M.