Some FL-50 questions


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The FL-36 and FL-50 uses the red-lamp assist.

The "burst" you described is strobe-lamp assist from the cam's pop-up flash.

And yes, it does irritate the hell out of any half-sane and half-sober subject. :bsmilie:
 

Hi OlyFlyer,

So with the FL-50, during poor/zero lighting focusing... there isn't that burst of flash akin to the built-in flash?

Cos that "burst" irritates the hell out of my subjects... ;p

Will we see a so-called red light/pattern???

Thanks,
Eric
Hi Eric,
As drakon09 already said, the FL-50 and FL-36 does not use the strobing technique used with the built in flash. There is a red "window" under the main flash that lits up the focusing area and emits a kind of strange pattern. The range is about 7-9 meters according to my measurements with my FL-50 flash, I don't know the range for the FL-36, but I suspect it is less. During my about 180 test pictures last night using both my zoom lenses the red light flashes no more than three times, focusing extremely fast compared to the built in strobe AF assist. It failed completely to focus about 3-5 times only. It manages to focus on a structureless white wall also, which the strobe could never manage. I guess that is due to the emitted pattern that the FL-50 adds to a contrastless wall for something to focus on. The time this pattern is visible for the people is so short that some times they don't even notice its existence before the flash is fired. When the flash is fired or the shutter is opened the red light is turned off, so it is never cought on the picture, just like the built in AF assist strobe. The camera is always focusing first than measures the light and sets aperture and opens the shutter. I would guess the red light is off when the camera measures the light to set aperture/shutter speed. So red light is visible, but not in picture and it is very far from the AF strobe's intensity so it is not blidening and irritating.
 

Oly..I added 2 AA of 2000mha in parallel to get the 4000mha. Me poor man cannot afford anything higher than 2000mha yet. So Do you think the FL36 would charge faster with that setup? It sure beat paying double the $$$ for a FL50.
 

Oly..I added 2 AA of 2000mha in parallel to get the 4000mha. Me poor man cannot afford anything higher than 2000mha yet. So Do you think the FL36 would charge faster with that setup? It sure beat paying double the $$$ for a FL50.

I don't think it works that way. If you 'tap out' the power terminals from the battery bay to use a DIY battery pack, adding an extra pair of AAs doubling the battery capacity would make the flash last longer (possibly 2x) on that set of 2x2 AAs (= 4000mAh 2.4V) but refresh time will still be the same.

**THEORY ALERT** **CAVEAT EMPTOR** Adding another pair (3x2 AAs = 4000mAh 3.6V) to raise the voltage to 3.6V (based on 1.2V NiMH cells) should charge the flash's capacitor quicker leading to a shorter refresh time. It may also very likely send your FL-36 to an early grave if the voltage is too high for the circuits or even if it does survive the boosted voltage, prolonged use will probably kill it sooner.
 

Oly..I added 2 AA of 2000mha in parallel to get the 4000mha. Me poor man cannot afford anything higher than 2000mha yet. So Do you think the FL36 would charge faster with that setup? It sure beat paying double the $$$ for a FL50.
Yes, I think if you have four batteries, two pairs connected in series connected in parallell than you should get a faster charge. That way you have 2.4 V and 4000mAh with your batteries.

It may even be so that the FL-36 can handle higher voltage also, like 3.6 or 4.8 V. In that case it would charge even faster but testing that is risky, you may fry your FL-36. I know that the old T32 I also have uses four batteries and I have looked at the circuit diagram of the T20 from the same series and age. The T20 used also two batteries because Oly wanted to make a light and small flash, but according to my view with that flash it would be no problem to use four batteries. So that may be the case even with the FL-36, but I have not seen the circuit diagram of FL-36 so I am just guessing.
 

I don't think it works that way. If you 'tap out' the power terminals from the battery bay to use a DIY battery pack, adding an extra pair of AAs doubling the battery capacity would make the flash last longer (possibly 2x) on that set of 2x2 AAs (= 4000mAh 2.4V) but refresh time will still be the same.
That is only partially true. If the FL-36 has current limiting circuit and not takes all the juice it can when charging. In my experience same voltage but higher capacity ALWAYS with every flash I ever owned gave faster recharge because my flashes took all the energy they could. A higher capacity battery can deliver more power during the same time period without demage. If that would not be true you would get faster recharge with non-rechargable alkaline batteries giving 1.5V / battery than rechargable giving 1.2V. The recharge order is even stated in the manual. Of course, best combination is higher voltage and high capacity.

**THEORY ALERT** **CAVEAT EMPTOR** Adding another pair (3x2 AAs = 4000mAh 3.6V) to raise the voltage to 3.6V (based on 1.2V NiMH cells) should charge the flash's capacitor quicker leading to a shorter refresh time. It may also very likely send your FL-36 to an early grave if the voltage is too high for the circuits or even if it does survive the boosted voltage, prolonged use will probably kill it sooner.
Yes, be warned! Pushing the envelope is risky. But there is another risk involved here. You must be aware of only using EQUALLY charged batteries all the time. If not than there is a risk for current flowing in the wrong direction that can, at best, result in demaging your batteries but at worst it can explode in your face. So, never mix batteries.
 

That is only partially true. If the FL-36 has current limiting circuit and not takes all the juice it can when charging. In my experience same voltage but higher capacity ALWAYS with every flash I ever owned gave faster recharge because my flashes took all the energy they could. A higher capacity battery can deliver more power during the same time period without demage. If that would not be true you would get faster recharge with non-rechargable alkaline batteries giving 1.5V / battery than rechargable giving 1.2V.

I have tried connecting a set of high current drain Sanyo sub-C "SCR" cells to my FL-50 and it doesn't speed up recycling time. Boosting the voltage to 6.0V (from 4.8V) by using 5 cells did speed up recycling noticeably but the FL-50 got really warm after 40-50 bursts.
 

I have tried connecting a set of high current drain Sanyo sub-C "SCR" cells to my FL-50 and it doesn't speed up recycling time. Boosting the voltage to 6.0V (from 4.8V) by using 5 cells did speed up recycling noticeably but the FL-50 got really warm after 40-50 bursts.
Yes, if you already use high capacity batteries there is a limit. But why not try 4 alkaline 800-1000mAh batteries giving 6V and compare with 4 NiMH 2500mAh giving 4.8V? You'll notice the difference. It is also stated in the FL-50's manual. Slowest recharge is with alkaline batteries. Actually what we say is the same, higher voltage makes bigger difference. Only I add that you still need current too, which I am sure you are aware of too. If that would not be the case two CR2032 batteries would be the best, giving 6V in series, very low weight. OK, they are not very cheap but that's another question. Unfortunately with their 220mAh they would not be able to charge the flash at all.

Page 43 in the FL-50 manual says:

Alkaline dry cell: 6sec 150 flashes (note: this is 4x1.5V = 6V)
CRV3: 5sec 220 flashes (note: this is 2x3V = 6V)
NiMh (1900mAh): 4sec 170 flashes (Note: this is 4x1.2V = 4.8V)

This is also my experience. BUT, by adding a fifth 1.2V NiMh would make it even faster.
Again, I have no idea about the FL-36 and its limits and electronic circuitry. The above is valid for FL-50 only, discussions about the FL-36 are just guessings from my side.
 

...
Alkaline dry cell: 6sec 150 flashes (note: this is 4x1.5V = 6V)
CRV3: 5sec 220 flashes (note: this is 2x3V = 6V)
NiMh (1900mAh): 4sec 170 flashes (Note: this is 4x1.2V = 4.8V)

This is also my experience. BUT, by adding a fifth 1.2V NiMh would make it even faster.
Again, I have no idea about the FL-36 and its limits and electronic circuitry. The above is valid for FL-50 only, discussions about the FL-36 are just guessings from my side.

I believe the voltage and current from the AA source is being intentionally limited to prevent effective use of DIY booster packs and to protect the flash unit from the user :bsmilie: Also serves to sell more $$$ SHV packs and cover Olympus from the black suits should we get ultra high current dynamite cells in the near future (1.2V 10Ah AAs anyone? :sweat: )
 

I believe the voltage and current from the AA source is being intentionally limited to prevent effective use of DIY booster packs and to protect the flash unit from the user :bsmilie: Also serves to sell more $$$ SHV packs and cover Olympus from the black suits should we get ultra high current dynamite cells in the near future (1.2V 10Ah AAs anyone? :sweat: )
I don't think so. When the FL-50 was originally made the highest capacity was about 2000mAh, so they only specified with that one. I know for sure my FL-50 charges in less than 4 seconds from a fully discharged state to a fully charged. Anyway, I am on my way to get a set of 2700mAh batteries and it will be interesting to see if that will improve even more. Otherwise I agree with Oly, equipment must be protected from persons like you and me and other DIY people. I don't know where the limit is but there is definitely a limit. I will definitely survey the four contacts for external power on FL-50. So far I only know that there is 5V on the longer ones and one of the terminals are directly connected to the built in battery - (minus) terminal. The question is, would it be a good idea to connect external batteries to this terminal? Would it improve anything or would the FL-50 start to give smoke signals????????? :dunno:
 

EXPENSIVE smoke signals. Whatever you do, make sure you don't leave any trace of DIY job on a unit still under warranty.

Anyone got a cheap FL36 up for sale?? hehehehe...:D
 

Reading the Metz brochure which says that
Metz 54 doesn't support Olympus; only 44 with SCA3202 adapter does.
Was it really 54 that was tried?

The metz website has never been up to date. The new shoe is m5 as to compare to the website which is only m4 (Adapter: SCA 3202 (ab M4 / as of M4) )

m4 works with metz54, I am using it right now.
 

How is the performance and how much for that metz?
 

How is the performance and how much for that metz?

I wanted to show you the other day. Too bad we cant meet up.

Anyway I have been happy with Auto mode. I bought 2 metz in the end. TTL and FP don't work as I mention earlier.
 

Sorry to ride on OlyFlyer's thread, can some kind soul help me to measure the length of the FL-50 when it is fully 'straightened' (meaning at 75 degree bouce)? I wanted to check if it would fit into my Lowepro Slingshot-200 bag. In case you're wondering why I'm asking and not actually going to a shop to try it out, it is because I'm working in the Maldives and have no access to any camera shops... :(

I have the FL-36 but contemplating on getting the FL-50 mainly because of the slow re-charge time of the FL-36...

Will be ordering on-line if it can fit into the bag...

Thanks in advance! Have a good weekend!
 

It probably will fit; the 50-200mm goes in quite comfortably even with the tripod collar, as a comparison.
 

Don't worry about the hijack, I don't mind, you are welcome for a ride.

I will measure it for you and show you how I have it in my bag. It is a very long flash, I have a Lowepro Stealth Reporter AW, which I thought it would not fit in, but actually I found a way to be able to carry almost all my stuff in a small bag like that. The pouch that comes with the flash is not used.
 

I'm noe using Lowepro Nova 3 AW.The FL-50 fits in just nice.Try to check and compare our bag at Lowepro website.Hope this helps.
 

Hi Hitman (and others who are interested),

OK, here is my main bag.

P1117862.jpg


This one is a Lowepro Stealth Reporter D100 AW. It is surprisingly spacious and yet very small. When I bought the 50mm I thought I will have to buy a new bag, or reuse one of my old ones but I menaged to fit camera plus my three lenses, lens hoods, spare batteries and some other stuff necessary to keep in my bag. Than when I bought my FL-50 I thought, now it is definitely the end of this bag, I have to move all my stuff into a much bigger one now. I tried and tried but I could not fit the flash, camera and the rest. But... after a fresh start, I places the 14-45mm with reversed hood on the bottom, some micro fibre cleaning cloth over the lens, bent the flash and removed it from the pouch and placed it on top of that. Before I tried with pouch stretched out on top of everything but it did not work out. Camera in the middle with 50mm and reversed hood (if I want, I can have the camera in the middle with the 14-45 on also) and on the left the 40-150mm, spare batteries for the camera and a blower and some more small stuff. The camera pockets are here empty, if I would travel I would have some more stuff there. This way I can close the zippers also without putting too much preassure on the hardware.

After this long description, here is the data you asked for:

Total length of the flash is 19cm (7.6 inches).
The widest part is 8cm (3.2 inches) measured in the middle where the flash is bent.
The thickest part is 6.3cm (2.5 inches) measured between the settings dial and the AF assist light window.
The total weight is exactly 500gr including 4 GP 2700mAh batteries.

As I have mentioned, the pouch stays home because it is taking up preciuos space. My bag is well padded, so I think it is not necessary, just makes it more complicated to handle. I think in any Lowepro "200" model it should not cause any problem. The "200" is a kind of a size number and since my bag is a "100" you could figure out and get some idea. Maybe the same thing you have to go through as I did, trying several options then go to sleep, come back to it next day and solve it. Don't stick to Oly's idea of transporting it straight, try other solutions also. I am very happy with my choise of bag for my digital camera and very happy that I don't have to start using my older and bigger bags where I keep the rest of my stuff.

Edit: Actually, when I bought my bag, I wanted the Slingshot but I found the 100 too small and not very practical and the 200 too big for my needs. So I think you have more space than I have, especially if you alredy have the FL-36 in it, which you intend to leave at home and replace it with the FL-50 later.
 

Thanks Olyflyer for the detailed description, and thanks to drakon09 and irischloe for the speedy response.

I now have a rough idea of the size of the FL-50 and I think it will fit into the Slingshot 200. Olyflyer has given a very interesting idea - no need to transport the flash straight ;)

Have to think out of the box sometimes... :D

Thanks!
 

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