happyranchu
Member
This len is a DX len hence with give you est 50mm focal length on a DX camera.
if need to bring only 1 len, i will bring 18-105 or 18-200
Sigma 30mm f/1.4 User Group
- Thread starter baileys
- Start date
- Status
This len is a DX len hence with give you est 50mm focal length on a DX camera.
if need to bring only 1 len, i will bring 18-105 or 18-200
If I can only bring one lens when backpacking, it would be the Tamron 17-50mm f2.8.
Soundaholic
New Member
is this lens suitable for indoor events without flash? Currently I'm using the Sigma 50mm 1.4 and I'm very happy with it except that it's too tight when I need to take small group photos (4-5 people)
driveanegg
Senior Member
it can squeeze in more ppl. take pic wthout flash.
However do note that for a wide aperture, DOF is very thin.
Background may not be visible and therefore may not be able to show that the ppl shot have been to the event in question.... :bsmilie:
indoor event needs a flash. I feel...
Shen siung
Senior Member
sometimes I bring this lens with my Tokina 11-16. But I feel this 30f1.4 itself is not enough for a backpacking trip.
However there is someone using this lens to a Bangkok trip (5 days? ) and posted the link to his photo here if not wrong. Check pages before.
Yes it is light and good.
For event, yes as someone said, need flash. because mostly, you need to shoot at f4 - f5.6 for enough DOF so most people won't OOF.
To me, This lens is ok for a small eating out (say 4 people) so a group photos still not hard. And on table, you can easily take a half body portrait of someone (your friend) sit near you.
wrx_sti_22b
Senior Member
If 45mm focal length is ok for you first of all.
alpinestars
Member
I normally use this as 'main lens'. coz i lazy to carry heavy lens out.
I think this is a very good walkabout lens on my DX.
magicianhisoka
Senior Member
good for you bro, loving mine too 
tbh, i've had this lens for several years - first as a main on my D2X, and now on my D700, despite the vignettng on FX sensors.
and, yeah, i've always thought mine had some form of focussing issues, at some point. not always. i thought it a fairly inconsistent lens.
it hasnt put me off using it all the time though..
most of time, unless i'm sure i'll be able to nail at 1.4 should i so wish, i go f2 or so and focus on a little bit in front.
ymmv though, as imho, sigmas quality vary alot, sometimes you get lemons, sometimes you dont.
and, yeah, i've always thought mine had some form of focussing issues, at some point. not always. i thought it a fairly inconsistent lens.
it hasnt put me off using it all the time though..
most of time, unless i'm sure i'll be able to nail at 1.4 should i so wish, i go f2 or so and focus on a little bit in front.
ymmv though, as imho, sigmas quality vary alot, sometimes you get lemons, sometimes you dont.
wrx_sti_22b
Senior Member
hi bros any way to test if your sigma got focusing issues? i've tried the focusing test chart alr but it gives me mixed resultsand i have no tripod so difficult to achieve the 45deg tilt needed for the test.
Don't have tripod then your teat not accurate lah...
hi guys..
i am having trouble getting 2 subjects(people) sharp in a photo even though i already up the aperture to F2.0.. i am using the 550D wif this lens and i using the spot focus to focus one of the subject before i adjust(as in the picture's composition, not focus) a bit and snap.. or shld i use the 9point focus instead?
any tips on using this to take pic of 3 ppl and above?
thanks..
i am having trouble getting 2 subjects(people) sharp in a photo even though i already up the aperture to F2.0.. i am using the 550D wif this lens and i using the spot focus to focus one of the subject before i adjust(as in the picture's composition, not focus) a bit and snap.. or shld i use the 9point focus instead?
any tips on using this to take pic of 3 ppl and above?
thanks..
first, you should realise that f2 is still quite shallow.
the sweet spot of that lens is 4-5.6 and a couple of stops down thereafter. and even then, the sharpness is concentrated in the center first.
secondly, if you still want to shoot multiple subjects using a shallow depth of field, then the best thing to do is to line up your subjects in a row.
this means that their eyes, the usual focal point, are all be roughly equal distances from the camera sensor/lens.
this gives you the best chance at getting everyone at roughly the same focal point, at which point theres a good chance that everyone will be in focus.
or get plenty of light and stop down your lens so that the depth of field allows you to get more of your subjects in focus at once.
hth
the sweet spot of that lens is 4-5.6 and a couple of stops down thereafter. and even then, the sharpness is concentrated in the center first.
secondly, if you still want to shoot multiple subjects using a shallow depth of field, then the best thing to do is to line up your subjects in a row.
this means that their eyes, the usual focal point, are all be roughly equal distances from the camera sensor/lens.
this gives you the best chance at getting everyone at roughly the same focal point, at which point theres a good chance that everyone will be in focus.
or get plenty of light and stop down your lens so that the depth of field allows you to get more of your subjects in focus at once.
hth
9 point focus on non uniformly arranged pairs of eyes?
i dont think that'll work, since 9 points is referring to the number of points that can be used for focus, and not referring to using 9 different areas of varying focus...
i'm old school and use single point in the middle, focus, and recompose.
i was going to suggest standing back too - thats the other alternative, and yes, you lose the effect of bokeh too. as you stand back, the region that will be in focus effectively gets larger with regards to what your lens can focus on -ie. when youre close, the camera focuses on the nose, when youre far the camera can focus on the whole head.
i dont think that'll work, since 9 points is referring to the number of points that can be used for focus, and not referring to using 9 different areas of varying focus...
i'm old school and use single point in the middle, focus, and recompose.
i was going to suggest standing back too - thats the other alternative, and yes, you lose the effect of bokeh too. as you stand back, the region that will be in focus effectively gets larger with regards to what your lens can focus on -ie. when youre close, the camera focuses on the nose, when youre far the camera can focus on the whole head.
- Status
Similar threads
