Sharing your formula on developer and B&W films

[Shahlan]

You got me there. What is d76?

It's a kind of kodak developer...

 

[nstclicks]

You got me there. What is d76?

Ruby will have it. Maybe Cathay too.

 

[Trapper]

D76 is always good for Tri-X, I just find it a little troublesome to mix. I use HC-110 for my Tri-X as a one-shot developer.

 

[Scandiacus]

I am a newbie and need some help here.
Got my hands on a fm2 and coupled that with 135mm lens. This is what I got with Tri-x400 shoot at ISO400.
I developed the first roll with Tmax Developer, Ilford Rapid Fixer, Ilfostop Stop Bath and Kodak Hypoclear.

I used the following formula (from Iphone's Dev App, and friend's advice).
1) Developer at 1:9 ratio. Mix and shake for first 30seconds to 45 seconds, followed by per min interval shake until 10:30 min. Water from fridge (according to recommendation from Ruby)
2) Stop bath for 1 min . First 30 sec shake, 2nd 30second settle. Just use pinch of stop batch to 580ml of water at room temperature.
3) Fixer 1:4 ratio for 5min. No shaking required
4) Hypoclear (abt 3/4 spoon for 580ml). No shaking required. 2min.
5) Rinse with water, and bubble bath with liquid detergent.
6) Sponge the film evenly in downward direction and hang to dry.

Now my question is ...
1) where and what do I change if I want to push te film up by 1 or 2 stop ?
2) how do I make B+W film portrait speak up more. I am suspecting that I am using the wrong film for portrait. Any advice?

I think you can increase the development time by 50% for 1 stop push, and 100% for 2 stop push? Might be wrong though.

 

[macchiato]

hmm...they just passed me the ilford without asking me what I want. oh well to be fair, I dont know what I want or need since I am so new to this.

Also - i have hairline dust after I developed my film, how can I prevent that ?
Or was it from the scanner ? (don't know yet).

Can anyway reply to the development time for 1 or 2 stop push ?
thanks!

 

[pikapig]

its a solution, just like ur tmax dev...can be found at ruby...but its powder form..so u might need containers to store them

 

[nstclicks]

Can anyway reply to the development time for 1 or 2 stop push ?
thanks!

Digitaltruth is the place to start for development times. They also have recommendations for push processing

http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php?doc=pushproc

hmm...they just passed me the ilford without asking me what I want. oh well to be fair, I dont know what I want or need since I am so new to this.

Uhh.. Your fixer is Ilford. Both Tmax developer and HC-110 are Kodak Before going out and buying some other developer, why don't you try pushing with Tmax developer using the recommended times from Digital Truth and see whether you like the results.

 

[macchiato]

Sounds good! I will try soon.

 

[wootsk]

You got me there. What is d76?

D76 is a petty useful chemical. I once used to as a sub for my E6 first developer with petty good result. (Of cause after mixing with other chemical to tone down contrast in silver developing). I suggest getting a small kitchen weighing machine and mixing less chemical as D76 shelf life after mixing is petty short and the packet mixture is 3.6L. If you want to mix in smaller amount, you will need to do some math for it. I mostly mix 1.2L and freeze in till I need more.

 

[Scandiacus]

D76 is a petty useful chemical. I once used to as a sub for my E6 first developer with petty good result. (Of cause after mixing with other chemical to tone down contrast in silver developing). I suggest getting a small kitchen weighing machine and mixing less chemical as D76 shelf life after mixing is petty short and the packet mixture is 3.6L. If you want to mix in smaller amount, you will need to do some math for it. I mostly mix 1.2L and freeze in till I need more.

Wow you freeze (solid ice) your working solution? Will it fully stop the expiry time as I heard that working solutions does not really keep long...

 

[pikapig]

Sharing my contribution, Lucky film is really thin!
I over run by abit but luckily not ruined..really a lucky film

Lucky shot at iso 200, 10mins 20degrees, pushed 1 stop, agitate every 30 secs

 

[Scandiacus]

Sharing my contribution, Lucky film is really thin!
I over run by abit but luckily not ruined..really a lucky film

Lucky shot at iso 200, 10mins 20degrees, pushed 1 stop, agitate every 30 secs

The tones look pretty good if not grainy for a 100/200 film!

 

[lordpain]

D76 is a petty useful chemical. I once used to as a sub for my E6 first developer with petty good result. (Of cause after mixing with other chemical to tone down contrast in silver developing). I suggest getting a small kitchen weighing machine and mixing less chemical as D76 shelf life after mixing is petty short and the packet mixture is 3.6L. If you want to mix in smaller amount, you will need to do some math for it. I mostly mix 1.2L and freeze in till I need more.

would not recommend this method of weighing the weight of d76 powder and micing it to smaller amounts as the d76 is made up of various compunds of different grain size and you might get inconsistent batches. A good alternative is to buy the raw chemicals and mix up what you need, or get hc-110, which is very similar to d76 in results.

 

[alantsh]

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5191/5891229394_5c9cf40e69_b.jpg

neopan 100
tmax 1+4 @ 5 minutes

please comment on the outcome and what's wrong

Thank you.

 

[oceanpriest]

Bump this thread

Film Type: Tri-X 400 pushed to 1600
Film format: 35mm
Developer: Ilford DD-X 1+4
Temp: 22 C Degrees
Duration: 14 mins

 

[oceanpriest]

Film Type: Lucky SHD100 pushed to 800
Film format: 35mm
Developer: HC-110 1+125
Temp: 25 C Degrees
Duration: 1 hours, started with 1 min agitation

 

[pikapig]

Bro Oceanpriest, you mind explaining to me what does stand developing means? based on ur HC110 timing, its stand developing?
Heard it work like rodinal

 

[anerjee]

oceanpriest, how do you manage to keep the temp at 25C for 1 hour? I am assuming you are in Singapore, where the water is usually around 30 at night.

 

[oceanpriest]

Bro Oceanpriest, you mind explaining to me what does stand developing means? based on ur HC110 timing, its stand developing?
Heard it work like rodinal

yes it's stand development

I don't know how to decribe it correctly, but here's the general idea:
stand development = no agitation at all after your initial agitation
semi stand development = there's agitation every N mins (N could be 5 or 10 or 15, etc)
normal development = there's agitation every 30s or 1 min

oceanpriest, how do you manage to keep the temp at 25C for 1 hour? I am assuming you are in Singapore, where the water is usually around 30 at night.

I follow the steps decribed here. I think for 1 hour or more stand development at room temperature (25C I assume), you don't need to worry about maintaining the temperature.

"i do not worry about temperature. normally it is room temperature. hence no water bath. the basis is that your developer is so dilute that it should not overdevelop."
http://www.shutterasia.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37251

 

[knight84]

Having read this - and the links. I have a noob question.

Given the low concentration levels. How does one push or pull the film?

cheers
A