Share Some RF Shots 13


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no matter how i cook it, i only use iphoto though.. couldnt get the desire effect
the jpeg, pre cook one looks better, but the green still looks weird :(

most or all the photos posted here are cooked or raw?

Hi sharps, if you can, try to use LR. It gives you better control over WB, most in-camera WBand jpeg processing isnt that great. Even if you take color film, we correct color casting with colored filters anyways (for example: under bright sunlight, I use a warming filter 81 to remove the bluish cast of the sky or a cooling filter for late afternoon). Similarly for RAW files, you will need to correct for this albeit electronically.

The yellow cast on the leaves also stems from the fact that you shot this pic in fairly bright sunlight, the lush green that you are after is better when the sunlight is less harsh, I find that early morning or evening light works best for foliage.

try also to have your monitor calibrated or at least gamma corrected then use the WB sliders to obtain the green that you want. Eyeball it as you adjust the colors. You can also augment that in PS with photo filters.

Most photos, at least the color ones, have to be cooked as most of us shoot in RAW. Hope that helps
 

thanks for the advice, i would try again in less harsh sunlight, i took tat pic in the evening though, but i remember the sun was just above me

i always tot tat leica image look, need no processing, guess im wrong then :(
 

thanks for the advice, i would try again in less harsh sunlight, i took tat pic in the evening though, but i remember the sun was just above me

i always tot tat leica image look, need no processing, guess im wrong then :(


Hi sharps, that famous leica look was made famous during the era of film. Looks are all a factor of many things falling into place: subject matter, lighting, environment, story. Even then there was darkroom work: development methods, color correction, dodging& burning, masking paper grades etc. They too were post processed in order to get that "look" that you see everywhere. In this digital age, we are just simply moving away from the Darkroom into Lightroom. Trust me, a film camera loaded with color film would "see" the scene the same way as you shot it and would look exactly alike if we didnt perform the darkroom tasks.

Most of all it was made famous through the lenses and not the camera bodies, its the lens that see the world not the body. In the Leica look shots, the lens would impart the character to the shot and we enhance or rather, bring it out. A pretty girl looks even better with makeup, but you need the basic prettiness in order to bring out beauty. Its more difficult to do that if the shot isnt pretty or lacks character/story to begin with.

So dont be disappointed with the whole mystique of Leica, there is no magic bullet in photography, no camera that will make you an instant superstar, it takes an entire process. All you have to do is look at some of our past pictures and our present postings and you will see a whole of difference. How experience and understanding of the camera, the lens, the subject and processing make the "look"
 

thanks for the advice
dem stupid of me, i tot leica lense + leica body = magic

will try n take more n practise more
prepare to be bombard left right up down centre to improve myself
 

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some editing from iphoto
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jpg
 

L9991550.jpg

some editing from iphoto
L9991426.jpg

jpg

Hi Sharps, good attempt, another component to making any "look" be it leica or otherwise is an acute understanding of exposure theory. Please note that Leica is not a fancy matrix metering system, but rather a very simple center weighted meter (from dinosaur days). Where a fancy DSLR with alarm clock and facebook app, will calculate all the light values for you and come out with the perfectly exposed shot, your leica, having a center weighted meter, has severely underexposed the shot, because it only saw the bright light and said "hey, its bright so I need to expose it according to the flame". This made the whole scene then too dark.

To create the look that you are after, you need to first understand how to use your new tool and it starts with proper exposure, as a photograph is really only a recording of light and dark.

I wont go into exposure theory here but one good thing to bear in mind "expose for shadows and develop for highlights) which in short, means you should point the camera at the shadow areas (not the darkest deepest shadow area, but somewhere inbetween), set the camera, dont touch the settings, recompose on the flame then shoot. This would give you a more properly exposed low light photo.

A little while ago, I advised another CSer on the same. Here is a good site to understand exposure theory and how to meter approriately.

Try reading up on it and I would be happy to answer any questions that you may have or anything that you dont really understand. :)
 

Canonet QL17 GIII

Kodak EBX
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iso100

thanks, will try out that and read tat as well
shots like urs above, original? or tweaked? i like the look n colors
and especially the last shot overseeing MBS

*edit
ok, just try, so wen i press the shutter down at 1st click, the settings remain the same? as in the shutter speed
 

Last edited:
iso100

thanks, will try out that and read tat as well
shots like urs above, original? or tweaked? i like the look n colors
and especially the last shot overseeing MBS

*edit
ok, just try, so wen i press the shutter down at 1st click, the settings remain the same? as in the shutter speed

Hi sharps, if you are speaking to me, use manual settings
 

yea, it was to you, do know y, the iso100 became on top, hahahah

ok, will try on manual settings n see how
thanks a lot
 

Friday Night 25th March'11 M8 & 50mm Nokton f/1.1

At the Padang after visiting Chiif
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Half-time
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Orchard Road
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Artist At Work
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SmokeBreak
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